Floor Panel and Outrigger Replacement

[BG 62AH]

Guys,

I am in need of some technical advice. I am in the process of restoring a BJ7. I need to replace all of the floor panels in the car, and 3 of the 4 outriggers (both driverside, and front passengerside -left hand drive car).

I have done some similiar type work on my TR6.

With regards to the floor panels, I have seen some pictures on the internet, but wasn't clear if they were done right. Any suggestions on techniques are greatly appreciated, also it would be a huge help if someone could share a few pictures.

On the outriggers, I know proper installation is critical. I was planning on temporarily welding in some bracing in the door openings and to the chassis. I was also planning on leaving the motor and transmission in the car. Any suggestions on techniques, fixtures, and/photos would really be appreciated if possible.

Thank you for any help you can offer. I really appreciate it.

Bill

 

[rjc157]

wow hate to say it thats a big job for a novice if your a decent welder i guess you could do it make some kind of gigs to hold everything in place if all thats bad i guess the rocker panels are shot also ,get replacements from kilmartin good luck

 

[57_BN4]

Buy a new chassis. Although it sounds like a massive undertaking to replace the chassis, you'll find that is is simpler and far more satisfying than fixing the original one. The corrosion damage you see is just the tip of the rustberg.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Buy a new chassis. Although it sounds like a massive undertaking to replace the chassis, you'll find that is is simpler and far more satisfying than fixing the original one. The corrosion damage you see is just the tip of the rustberg.

I totally agree with you! Replace the frame when they're that bad.

 

[Lotuswins]

Hi Bill,

You are ambitious! I assume you've used a metal thickness gage and checked the rest of the frame to make sure its okay? I did the outrigger and sill replacement on my BJ8 a few years ago, and it was a challenge. I welded in box iron to keep the door dimensions static, and side to side also to keep that from moving around. The frame dimensions in the manual were helpful too, should things get out of alignment. I also recall a diagram for the sills/outriggers from a fellow named Adnan, I think, I can look it up if you need it. I did the fender patch panels, will you be doing that too??

It was a difficult process, but it eventually all worked out. A new frame is definately preferred, but its also expensive and still a lot of work, however, you won't have to worry about your door gaps closing up in the future. Do a search in the archives, this subject has been discussed at length a few times.

 

[bob hughes]

Bill

A little information please, what exactly is wrong with the outriggers, I have a BJ7 and have had to cut out sections of the tops of the outriggers and weld in new, done the same with the main chassis members too. Are yours shot completely or can you repair?


If total replacement is necessary then you are going to have to take carefull measurements, not having gone that far myself I am guessing that you would have to remove the floor and sills ( rockers ) leaving as much of the outriggers as you can possibly save then tackle one at a time marking positions on the chassis and taking dimensions from the floor, the other outrigger etc. so that the new one can be positioned correctly.

The way I removed the floor and sills - one side at a time - I removed all the panels - front and rear wings ( fenders) and the door. Then cut out the sills between the A andf B posts leaving the welding lugs at the bottom of the posts in postion, then moved in on the floor and removed the main floor section up to the outriggers then looked at the front and rear floor sections, be carefull here as the side panels are folded to provide a ledge for the floor sections to sit on and you need to keep as much of that in place as possible. I left a margin all around the floors and then peeled and ground the floor edges off to leave the ledges behind. Then I tackled the remaining front and rear portions of the sills separating them from the inner wings. PM me and I will send some piccys over.



Bob

 

[vette]

Hi Bill, If you are into just the floors and some outriggers I don't think that is an undoable job. But as has been said before the chance of more rust devistation is usually pretty likely. Check very closely your inner sills and of course the rocker panels themselves. It they are good then I believe you can get away with just the floors and outriggers. I've done a complete Healey (see my avitar) and I think the rocker inner sills are the most difficult. If doing the outriggers the most critical are the rear ones because they hold the forward perch of the leaf springs. You want to get that perch in the exact spot so that your rear suspension geometry doesn't get crooked. Firstly, use 3/4 or 1" square tubing or angle iron and weld it across the top of the door openning about an inch or so below where the window comes out of the door. If you do not remove the rockers inner sill that with the brace will keep the door openning true. Then weld another piece of bracing across the cockpit approx behind where the seats would be, at the level and point where the convertible top bolts to the body. This will keep the main body tub from leaning inward or bowing outward when you remove the rear out rigger. I did not have to replace my front outriggers so I did not put a brace across the cockpit just above the front outriggers, but I suggest you do that. Take copious measurements and pictures. Measure the distance from main frame rail to the outer edge of the front cross member then go ahead and cut the old one out with a cutoff wheel. When fitting the new one just make sure that distance is exactly the same.
To work on the rear outriggers, I used the brace that I put in across the rear of the cockpit as a datum line. I referenced, vertical measurements from it to my outrigger and spring perch. Also, you must note the lateral position of the spring perch. (pictures and measurements, EVEN SKETCHES ). I felt that it would be easier to get the spring perch in the exact location by welding it to the outrigger after the outrigger was welded into position first. I was going to weld it to the outrigger before I put the outrigger into position because i thought I would be able to weld it better out of the car. But I decided to do the outrigger first then position the perch incase in my fitting of the outrigger and the weld of it, that I might get it off alittle. Because the floors were not there, I was able to weld it just fine. Now use your datum measurements from the cross brace to get the perch in the right position. Also laterally and up and down. I measured the hole location in the new perch realative to the hole location in the old perch to make sure that there wasn't any deviation in the manufacture of the perch.
One thing I might mention about the floor installation. Firstly, I 'm not overly interested in concours originallity. And the floor sheetmetal is originally overlaid on top of the frame rails. This is a recipe for rust. I laid my new floor sheetmetal in place then scribed a line from underneath along the length of the frame rails I took up the sheet metal and bent a downward flange in the floor sheet metal so that it just met the frame rail instead of laying on top of it. I welded it in by putting staggard welds on the top side about an inch long and about 1 &1/2" apart. all along the flange and frame rail. Then I body chaulked the seam to make it all water tight. When I painted the frame I made special effort to spray epoxy paint into the seam from the underside.
Good Luck, Dave.

 

[bob hughes]

When I welded my floor in, I first primed the top of the frame with weld through primer and placed the main floor panel on top, welded it in with hit and miss welding and caulked the gap underneath between frame and panel with a good caulking material before painting over with an epoxy primer. Similarly with the other floor panels but i hole punched the edges and 'spot' welded them onto weld through primered surfaces then seam sealed the lot.




Bob

 

[John_Progess]

When I did my BJ8 I had to replace all the floor panels and one outrigger and just repaired the ends of the other three outriggers where they attached to the innersills. Also replaced both inner and outter sills and rockerpanels and B posts. While I had the floor panels off it was recommended to me by a guy who has been doing Healeys for 30 years that I install boxed gussets on both sides of all outriggers where they attach to the frame just like the factory gussets on the rear outriggers. Definately have the engine and tranny in the car when doing this and definatelly try to get Kilmartin panels whenever possible. Have a good day!