engine paint question

[Hawkscoach]

I posted some pics of my 59 BN4 about a year ago. The frame was on the rotisserie and soda blasted and all the bad metal removed and replaced. Since then I have completed all the sheet metal work, painfully aligned the panels and recently sent the engine to the machine shop and transmission/OD for rebuild. The good news is the engine had no problems (it was amazingly clean inside), the bad news is the trans is trashed. So I am waiting for some parts from the UK, (and a whole lot of $). My question is where can I get the proper Paint/color so that when I pick up the engine in the next few days I can paint it quickly. The temp/humidity has hit early this year and one can almost watch metal rust in these conditions. The car is a late 59 build. Thank you for the help.

Doug

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Bill Hirsch ( advertises in Hemmings ) sells the correct color by the quart. You can thin it to spray a nice finish. Spray can paint will only look ok for a few yrs. but not over the long term . I always spray a nice even coat of DP 40 epoxy primer first.

 

[BobFrisby]

Moss Motors used to sell (and probably still does) a rattle-can paint in the correct shade. I've used it and been happy. If properly prepped, etc. this paint is good for the long run in my opinion.

Bob Frisby
Boise, Idaho
BT7 TriCarb

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Moss Motors used to sell (and probably still does) a rattle-can paint in the correct shade. I've used it and been happy. If properly prepped, etc. this paint is good for the long run in my opinion.

Bob Frisby
Boise, Idaho
BT7 TriCarb

I second that.

 

[red57]

I agree with Brinkerhoff. The only one I will use is Bill Hirsch in quart can - waaaaay better quality paint than any rattle can paint I have seen.

 

[Hawkscoach]

Great! Thank you for the replies. To prime the block, what did you use? Someone mentioned DP 40. I have 90, and have used 40, however, not on a "hot" engine. Will it resist the heat or is there another recommended primer. I did buy some heat resistant primer for the exhaust manifolds but it may not be a good base/adhesion for the recommended paint. Many thanks again for the advice.

Doug

 

[AH100M]

Did you "painfully align the panels" with the engine and gearbox in the car and the car on its wheels? 'sure hope so...

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Spray can will work too ,there's no reason it won't. I just don't think its the best way to go. If it works for you , who am I to argue?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Great! Thank you for the replies. To prime the block, what did you use? Someone mentioned DP 40. I have 90, and have used 40, however, not on a "hot" engine. Will it resist the heat or is there another recommended primer. I did buy some heat resistant primer for the exhaust manifolds but it may not be a good base/adhesion for the recommended paint. Many thanks again for the advice.

Doug

We didn't apply any primer before painting both our BJ8 and BN2 blocks with the Moss rattle can stuff, but both had been hot-tanked. I think the block's outer surface is porous enough that paint sticks good if it's clean, even with a hint of surface rust. The BJ8's paint has held up for over 20 years and probably 90K miles.

I'd use a good degreaser first--paint shops usually have them for around $10/can.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I've actually had better results with the Moss paint than I did with the Bill Hirsch stuff. Granted, it was probably twenty (>20) years ago, but I've been perfectly satisfied with the Moss paint since.

Regardless of which brand/type you use, apply in thin layers and do not create an excessive build-up of film thickness. More is definitely NOT better in this application. Too thick and the paint will be more prone cracking due to differing expansion rates.

The last engine I built, I used a high temperature primer made for the purpose; found it at the local Auto-Zone.

Considering that the original sloshed on painting of the engine was done as someone's day job, whatever effort you put into the prep and application for your engine will undoubtedly exceed "factory standards" and results.

 

[shorn]

Once again Randy demonstrates that a picture is worth a thousand words (maybe more). Can't possibly tell you the great value of his pictures have given this forum over the years, but I can say, "Thanks, Randy"

 

[Bob_Spidell]

...
Regardless of which brand/type you use, apply in thin layers and do not create an excessive build-up of film thickness. More is definitely NOT better in this application. Too thick and the paint will be more prone cracking due to differing expansion rates. ...

Good point (although sometimes it's hard to resist laying it on heavy to get coverage--but resist you must).

On a side note, I bought a can of Dupli-Color primer the other day, and was impressed with the nozzle--it put out a pattern and flow just like an HVLP gun. Most rattle cans put out a round pattern, which makes it hard to get good overlap without sags or runs.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

40 is just the light grey color I prefer.

 

[Hawkscoach]

many thanks to all!

Randy, VERY nice looking engine build. Thanks for the inpiration and BTW, now you have set the standard very high for me.

AH100M, I had the engine and trans in with the car on a body cart with the supports set at each wheel location. So much of the car chassis (scuttle) has been repaired and replaced including the sills and rockers..............The panels will come off when I paint the scuttle on a rotisserie, then the panels will be installed once again to check fit prior to final paint. Hopefully, there will be no changes but if there is, I can fix then. When I took the weight out (eng/trans), there was no movement/flex. This was a lot of work and I took great care.

Thanks again,

Doug

 

[dougie]

Who ya kiddin' PPG stopped making DP40 years ago, if you still have any it's waaaaay past the shelf life.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Who ya kiddin' PPG stopped making DP40 years ago, if you still have any it's waaaaay past the shelf life.

You can still buy it, it's just called DP40LF (lead free) now.

DP50LF is light gray (DP40LF is a gray-green color).

 

[Hawkscoach]

is this it? just wanted to make sure and also thought it may be helpful for anyone else looking for the same information.



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Started :

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Austin Healey Green in color. Highest quality, hi-temp., hi-gloss. Over 50% of high point scoring cars shown at leading car shows all over the world have Hirsch Engine Enamel of their engines. Gives you a factory look finish. Rated to 700 degrees F. (The highest on the market.) Nothing else compares.

 

[dougie]

Who ya kiddin' PPG stopped making DP40 years ago, if you still have any it's waaaaay past the shelf life.

You can still buy it, it's just called DP40LF (lead free) now.

DP50LF is light gray (DP40LF is a gray-green color).

Oh, come on Randy. That's like switching from a fine NW micro-brew to Budlight.
It's just not the same........

*Full disclosure, I've sold paint coatngs for the last 25 years, including PPG.

 

[Randy Forbes]

... *Full disclosure, I've sold paint coatngs for the last 25 years, including PPG.

YOU set me up!

:blush:

 

[Keoke]

Moss Motors used to sell (and probably still does) a rattle-can paint in the correct shade. I've used it and been happy. If properly prepped, etc. this paint is good for the long run in my opinion.

Bob Frisby
Boise, Idaho
BT7 TriCarb

I -----------------second that.

-----------------
Keoke

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