Crankshaft pulley bolt

[RETNJ]

Early '74 MGB. Need to remove crankshaft pulley bolt to remove pulley to remove timing cover to replace oil seal that leaks.
Radiator is out, belt removed, steering rack loosened and forward, , tab bent flat, and I have a very big socket set just right for removing the bolt. Now, how do you do that without simply turning the engine over? I've looked for older helpful posts but the idea of "tapping it with the starter" gives me the creeps.
I have enough leverage for the bolt that I shouldn't need an impact wrench.
Would appreciate some good ideas.
Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Get the breaker bar up against the frame rail (in the direction of rotation of the engine), gear selector in neutral, tap the starter.
Or, pull the starter, use a prybar to jam the ring gear teeth, put a pipe on the breaker bar, and do it that way.
When something slips, and you lose three teeth, go back to:
Get the breaker bar up against the frame rail (in the direction of rotation of the engine), gear selector in neutral, tap the starter.

 

[PAUL161]

I use an air knocker, (impact wrench). PJ

 

[DGill]

Paul161 is correct. Fast hitting impact will remove the bolt before turning the engine. I've removed several this way and it's quick, also, no broken or chipped teeth or flying wrench.

 

[fogliner]

I remember hearing about a way to jamb the engine by pulling the #1 sparkplug and rolling the engine over until #1 on the up stroke compression stroke and push as much 1/4 inch nylon rope onto the piston through the sparkplug hole that you can and then roll the engine manually with the ratchet and socket so the piston comes up against the rope and stops then you will be able to undo it for sure with your socket and breaker bar.
roll it back and pull out the rope and done.
Some old timers may remember that method.

Mark

 

[RETNJ]

Fogliner,
The rope trick did the job. I tried bolting rock maple and birch plywood to the front of the pulley but both versions split. Filled #1 with nylon rope and as soon as I used a length of pipe to increase the moment arm the bolt came right off. Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
BT

 

[Hap Waldrop]

I use my Makita electric impact wrench for this. So if you don't have a air compressor the electric impact also work great, in fact I do have a large air compressor and prefer my electric impact wrench over my air unit. Good tool to have for alot of work on our cars.

 

[DrEntropy]

Those electric impact tools are wicked mean. Yet to see a bolt/nut the things can't un-do one way or another (*snap!*...oops).
Good for DIS-assembling stubborn fasteners... not so good for reassembly, tho. :wink:

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Those electric impact tools are wicked mean. Yet to see a bolt/nut the things can't un-do one way or another (*snap!*...oops).
Good for DIS-assembling stubborn fasteners... not so good for reassembly, tho. :wink:

yeah I bought mine to use at the racetrack, was getting too old to keep using hand tools to take of wheels on and off the race car. Quickly realized this thing was absolutely fan-freaking-tastic to disassemble engine cores with. Taking my time I useally take a engine core down to bare in bout 2 hours, checking stuff along the way. I almost exclusively use the electric impact for reamoving every thing on the engine, even the 1/4" stuff with little finess. I rarely ever have problem getting anything off a old crudy, crusty used engine core. Bottom line, I love that tool, and could not live without it now.