TR2/3/3A Clutch pushes hard when engine is hot

[sammy]

One day when driving the TR3A, after driving 10 miles or so, I went to push in the clutch and it was very hard to push (required 3 or 4 times the normal pressure). On the way home, at times the clutch was normal, other times it took quite a bit of pressure. As far as I can tell, when the engine was hotter after sitting in traffic, stop lights, etc, the clutch was much harder to push in.

I drove it last weekend and there were times that the clutch was "normal" and other times it was just a bit harder to press in. Using the electric fan, I made sure the engine stayed in the "cooler " range (below 190). The clutch slave cylinder is adjusted properly. There are no leaks in the system.

Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas on a fix?

Sam

 

[Hamish Racing]

that's a strange one- the pipe run shouldn't be near a very hot heat source or i would suggest a rubber pipe is swelling and restricting flow with heat.

could still be a rubber pipe that is collapsing inside and preventing the peddle pressure getting to the slave?
ive have it the other way around with brakes staying on with a bad pipe i use braided now.

hope you get to the bottom of it - that's a frustrating one

 

[sp53]

Perhaps the problem is mechanical and not hydraulic. The little forks at the end of the MC push rod can come lose and bind up. The cotter key and spring can come out of the hole if cotter key is not correct.
steve

 

[CJD]

Or a problem with the flexible hose...like disintegrating internally or kinked?

 

[Sarastro]

I'm thinking rust in the pedal pivot. I had a similar problem in another car, and that was the cause.

The brake and clutch pedals each have a sintered bronze bushing that rides on a steel rod. That can rust from water that leaks onto it from above. When I took mine apart, as I restored the car, it was deeply pitted by rust. It happens.

In any case, I agree with Steve--it's more likely to be mechanical than hydraulic.