T-Series clutch issues

[Moose33]

hi all. I have some more questions that my "shop guides" aren't making easy to find an answer.

the vehicle has been sitting since 1985, (it's a '71) I had no clutch pressure when I got it and have since run new lines from master to slave, bled all the old crud out, and still have no clutch. There are no visable signs that the slave is leaking fluid, but I have an occasional drip onto the clutch pedal from up top. does this mean the master is bad, even though it is pushing fluid through the lines?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[maynard]

Get a six pack and call a friend over. Have him sit in the car and press the clutch while you look at the lever underneath. It should move about 1/2". If it is, the problem is in the clutch assembly. It is not unheard of for the pressure plate to rust to the flywheel.

As far as the leak goes, you either have a bad master or the junction betweenn the msater and the line is bad.

Maynard

 

[Moose33]

"..Have a friend over and have him sit in the car and press the clutch while you look at the lever underneath. It should move about 1/2"..."

thanks.
Tried that, lever doesn't move. So I would assume at least One of my issues is a faulty slave?

 

[SilentUnicorn]

or a faulty m/c. double check and make sure you bench bleed the master


mark

 

[AltaKnight]

Moose....
The leak at the clutch pedal is the seal leaking on the Master Cylinder and running down the shaft onto the pedal. You will need to rebuild the MC, probably the Slave cylinder also. It's not difficult if you're handy and will fix the problem. The kits are sold by TRF, Moss or Victoria.
I've just recently done this and it wasn't difficult. Make sure you properly bleed all the air out after the rebuild.

 

[Guest]

well hi all - logged on b/c I thought I'd have to start a line on clutch issues and BAM - there was one - here is my question

My clutch "fades" over about 25 minutes of driving to where I have no clutch whatsoever. When it sits overnight the clutch comes back. I got this 70 MG Midget that had been sitting for 5 years. Bled the system, verified the pressure in the system. So I have 2 thoughts and would like feedback on them.
1. Slave cylinder is bad - but not sure why it would "fade"
2. Fluid leak onto the actual clutch as I drive

Any thoughts/ideas on how to fix?

Drew

 

[SilentUnicorn]

Drew, sounds like you may need a new clutch. if the system isnt leaking, is it possible that the clutch is shot? possibly glazed over and thin?

mark

 

[Moose33]

evening all and thank you for the great answers!

I double checked the m/c (and tightened down the end banjo) and re-bled. Still nothing at the slave. I pulled off the slave and found three things (1) about 1/4" gunk build up behind the dust boot (2) a good amount of rust (no pitting though) behind the piston and in the chamber and (3) the (pardon me for using the wrong teminology here) push rod/ clevis pin rusted together. hrmmm. progress.

-Guy '71 B /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Guest]

so what is the least "non-invasive" way to tell if I need a clutch? I need to get under and mess with the slave cylinder - see what's up with that - but what's the best way to see/check if the plate is thin?

Drew

 

[WJM]

If your slave cylinder push rod is not moving when you clutch pedal is depressed sounds like you need to rebuild your master cylinder. At the same time I would also rebuild your slave cylinder. You can take both to a brake shop and have the piston cylinder rebored it does not cost much and is worth while. Then when you put in your new rubber seals they will not get damsged on the rust or scores in the bore. Good luck and keep us informed. Regards John.

 

[Moose33]

found part of the problem today.. I pulled off the slave because it was dripping out the dust cover and pulled the Master completely off this time. The "clevis pin" had been replaced by the P.O. by a rough thread bolt and because of this (and maybe some other things) had caused the pushrod to rub at an angle inside the M/C and I have two deep gouges on the M/C bore and on the pushrod itself.

I bought a new S/Cyl but for now the clutch project is on hold /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif while allocating fundage.

Guess I'll start on wiring now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

thank to all for your answers and help thus far- it really DOES make a difference!

 

[Guest]

John,

Thank you. I'm not sure if you saw the question earlier - but I was curious why I would start out with a clutch but with about 15 minutes of driving the clutch would "fade" and then not be there. Any thoughts?

Drew