pipercollins
Member
Offline
Hello all,
After the 4th round of thinking I found my problem and fixing it, only to learn I still have a problem, I think I need to just ask for help. So...
Symptom: Clutch does not want to fully engage. Hard going into 1st and Reverse.
History: I've driven this car about 10k miles with no clutch trouble at all. This spring I heard a noise under the car while driving through town one day and stopped to see if I could see what might have fallen off. Couldn't identify anything missing. Ultimately decided I'd just driven over something already in the street. Car still seemed OK. But driving home with "heightened awareness" I decided that the clutch pedal seemed to feel a little off. Everything still worked OK. Just a "feeling".
Round 1: When I finally decided to thoroughly go over things, I found that the clevis pin linking the pedal arm to the master cylinder push rod was nearly worn through. Like amazing it was still holding at all. So I replaced the pin. No big deal. But it didn't change the feel of things other than I THINK it actually seemed a little bit worse. (???)
Round 2: Thought maybe I should check the clutch fluid. Duh. It was low. About half way up the side of the reservoir. Got some new fluid and topped it up. No immediate change, so I decided I should probably bleed it. No problem. (Figured out it's a one-man job IF you take the tunnel cover off and go at it from the top...anybody got a better method?) New fluid. Freshly bled. Now there was audible grinding trying to shift to Reverse. No grinding in 1st, but it went harder than before. WTF?
Round 3: Looking for throw adjustment at the master cylinder push rod (which there is none, but should be) I saw that the hole for the clevis pin at the top of the pedal arm was extremely worn (to match the pin itself from Round 1, of course). I had a long slot instead of a neat round hole. Surely that's the problem. Thought about welding it up, but found a forum member with a spare clutch pedal on offer so I bought that and swapped them out. Now Reverse grinds even more and it will not shift into 1st. Can shift OK into 2nd and thereby drive the car back up the driveway and into the garage again. More WTF?
Round 4: On very close examination, determined that the length from the pedal pivot pin to the hole for the clevis pin was actually a little shorter on the "new" pedal than on the old one. So maybe the slight difference (~ 1/4") means the pedal isn't throwing the pushrod on the master far enough. OK That makes sense. I enlisted my old farmer dad to weld some new steel stock onto the original pedal and drill a fresh clean hole for the clevis pin where it was originally intended. Reinstalled the old clutch pedal with new hole. No change. Unless it's maybe just a little bit worse yet.
Best guess now is that either master or slave cylinders have been going gradually (but increasingly quickly) bad for a while. Every other fix has not been the key issue. But having demonstrated that I really don't know as much as I think I do, I wanted to ask advice from the group before I shell out for new clutch cylinders.
Your thoughts? Thanks.
Bill
After the 4th round of thinking I found my problem and fixing it, only to learn I still have a problem, I think I need to just ask for help. So...
Symptom: Clutch does not want to fully engage. Hard going into 1st and Reverse.
History: I've driven this car about 10k miles with no clutch trouble at all. This spring I heard a noise under the car while driving through town one day and stopped to see if I could see what might have fallen off. Couldn't identify anything missing. Ultimately decided I'd just driven over something already in the street. Car still seemed OK. But driving home with "heightened awareness" I decided that the clutch pedal seemed to feel a little off. Everything still worked OK. Just a "feeling".
Round 1: When I finally decided to thoroughly go over things, I found that the clevis pin linking the pedal arm to the master cylinder push rod was nearly worn through. Like amazing it was still holding at all. So I replaced the pin. No big deal. But it didn't change the feel of things other than I THINK it actually seemed a little bit worse. (???)
Round 2: Thought maybe I should check the clutch fluid. Duh. It was low. About half way up the side of the reservoir. Got some new fluid and topped it up. No immediate change, so I decided I should probably bleed it. No problem. (Figured out it's a one-man job IF you take the tunnel cover off and go at it from the top...anybody got a better method?) New fluid. Freshly bled. Now there was audible grinding trying to shift to Reverse. No grinding in 1st, but it went harder than before. WTF?
Round 3: Looking for throw adjustment at the master cylinder push rod (which there is none, but should be) I saw that the hole for the clevis pin at the top of the pedal arm was extremely worn (to match the pin itself from Round 1, of course). I had a long slot instead of a neat round hole. Surely that's the problem. Thought about welding it up, but found a forum member with a spare clutch pedal on offer so I bought that and swapped them out. Now Reverse grinds even more and it will not shift into 1st. Can shift OK into 2nd and thereby drive the car back up the driveway and into the garage again. More WTF?
Round 4: On very close examination, determined that the length from the pedal pivot pin to the hole for the clevis pin was actually a little shorter on the "new" pedal than on the old one. So maybe the slight difference (~ 1/4") means the pedal isn't throwing the pushrod on the master far enough. OK That makes sense. I enlisted my old farmer dad to weld some new steel stock onto the original pedal and drill a fresh clean hole for the clevis pin where it was originally intended. Reinstalled the old clutch pedal with new hole. No change. Unless it's maybe just a little bit worse yet.
Best guess now is that either master or slave cylinders have been going gradually (but increasingly quickly) bad for a while. Every other fix has not been the key issue. But having demonstrated that I really don't know as much as I think I do, I wanted to ask advice from the group before I shell out for new clutch cylinders.
Your thoughts? Thanks.
Bill