TR2/3/3A Changing out the battery liner

[Gatheringtree]

This is a heads up. I had to change out the old cracked ABS plastic battery box liner. My battery was starting to fall through it. (Perhaps there was a metal compartment before, but now there is only a hole for the liner to sit in.) I purchased a new holder/liner from Moss Motors. The old battery liner was installed with screws. I would recommend against drilling and fastening it because plastic expands and contracts as it heats & cools. The engine compartment takes that temperature flex to greater extremes. The ABS battery holder is vacuum formed from a flat 1/8" thick sheet. As it is heated, then stretched over the mold and vacuumed to conform to the mold, it thins down to about 1/32~1/16" inch on the deepest parts. This makes it weaker at the bottom. I added 1/8" closed neoprene foam under all outer flanges before seating it. This gets the plastic off hot metal and provides for easier expansion / contraction. I think it will extend the life of the liner. The neoprene is available on Amazon. I used the same neoprene in the floor of the battery compartment. Both battery and compartment are held in place well by an existing bracket system. So, there is no need to screw the liner in place. Do not over tighten the clamp. This will put undue stress on the thin battery liner floor over time. The bottom of the liner is much thinner and weaker than it appears at the flanges.

 

[CJD]

Yes, there was originally a steel box to hold the battery, and not a simple job to replace it. The liner, as the PO found out, will work for a while, but will eventually crack from the heat, weight and vibration.

 

[TomMull]

Good solution and maybe better than the original steel box which was a curious arrangement that rotted out from acid spills on almost every TR. It had a hole in the bottom with a hose on it that went into the cab and down through the transmission tunnel where it dripped past the transmission, and seemed to do little damage. But the box bottom stayed wet even with the drain hole and rotted famously.
Tom

 

[bobhustead]

I built a new steel box for mine and coated it with black bed liner. I then cut a plastic battery box to the heights and angles of the compatrment and set the battery there. 11 years, no problem.
Bob

 

[charleyf]

Another option that I did was to use a battery mat. Which is treated to absorb/ neutralize the acid. This along with the rubber pads sold by TRF and others. I placed pads below the plastic box and on top of the battery mat, which will be below the battery.
Charley

 

[Gatheringtree]

Another option that I did was to use a battery mat. Which is treated to absorb/ neutralize the acid. This along with the rubber pads sold by TRF and others. I placed pads below the plastic box and on top of the battery mat, which will be below the battery.
Charley

Good idea.

 

[mgedit]

After restoration, I switched to an AGM battery to avoid acid issues. So far, so good. Cheers, Mike

 

[Gatheringtree]

After restoration, I switched to an AGM battery to avoid acid issues. So far, so good. Cheers, Mike

I will look into that. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

[CJD]

If you are having acid issues, then you are over-filling the cells. I used to be guilty of the same. I used to fill to the bottom of the plastic fill tubes...and I would get a lot of acid all over the battery boxes. In the RV I run 6 lead acid batteries, so it became an issue. I learned that there is no reason to to fill past the plates being just covered...which is about 1/2" lower than I used to fill. The RV has gone 10 years without a drop of acid in the battery bay...my fresh TR2 battery box is as clean as the day I painted it 8 years ago.

 

[Gatheringtree]

If you are having acid issues, then you are over-filling the cells. I used to be guilty of the same. I used to fill to the bottom of the plastic fill tubes...and I would get a lot of acid all over the battery boxes. In the RV I run 6 lead acid batteries, so it became an issue. I learned that there is no reason to to fill past the plates being just covered...which is about 1/2" lower than I used to fill. The RV has gone 10 years without a drop of acid in the battery bay...my fresh TR2 battery box is as clean as the day I painted it 8 years ago.

This is always good advice and I am glad your RV is battery compartment is in good shape. In this case, I did not fill the battery with acid. I purchased the car a few weeks ago. The box was already worn and cracked at the screw sites. I did have a bad leak in the master cylinders. Corrosive brake fluid spilled and took off nearby paint and had an effect on the battery liner that contributed to its deterioration. This post is primarily a tip about the installation of a new battery liner. ( I also replaced both master cylinders and solved the brake fluid leak problem.)

 

[CJD]

I had some acid issues from my PO too...just trying to help. Remember this thread will be searched by many future owners

Oh...a tip for brake fluid. The silicone fluid doesn't remove paint...in fact, we Harley guys use it to "gloss up" painted surfaces when showing our bikes.

 

[Gatheringtree]

I had some acid issues from my PO too...just trying to help. Remember this thread will be searched by many future owners

Oh...a tip for brake fluid. The silicone fluid doesn't remove paint...in fact, we Harley guys use it to "gloss up" painted surfaces when showing our bikes.

So true