Changing Motor Mounts

[Royal_58]

I have been hearing a clunking sound from the tunnel area just aft of the gearbox. It sounds like a u-joint or the driveshaft is bumping the tunnel. I suspect that the motor mounts and the gearbox pad need replacing . The old ones have sagged and the left front one has seperated.

Is there a nifty trick to swapping out the mounts? It looks like the motor can be lifted slightly with a lift, any pointers before I start?

Its amazing where troubleshooting a rough runing engine can lead

 

[mrv8q]

Hello, Duke, I did this a while ago on my car, and it wasn't too difficult. Instead of using the lifting eyes, I laid a block of wood under the oil pan and used a trolley jack to do the lifting, ISTR I attached the new motor mounts to the engine, and then eased everything on to the chassis. It couldn't have been too difficult; I had no helper at the time. I also made a note of location and number of metal shims originally used.... Of course, I had the front apron off, so it made disassembly and assembly a little easier... Good luck!

 

[Russ Austin]

I also started hearing a noise under the bonnet and noticed my carb filters were hitting the inner fender, ah ha I say to myself I need new motor mounts. Kevin is correct I did the install the same way. Good Luck Duke!

 

[KVH]

Here is what I did, because I'm a worrier.

I did one side at a time, and kept the "opposite" side from the one I was currently working on still bolted, but I loosened that opposite bolt until it was almost off. The reason is that without a hoist if you can't get it all back together, that jack under the pan may not allow the needed movement and fix.

As for the jack, I favored the side I was working on so that the engine tilted just slightly.

I carefully watched the accelerator shaft behind the engine to make sure I wasn't bending it.

I gooped up the bolt on the new engine mount, as well as the foot of the engine plate, so that when I lowered the engine it would slide down and over the bolt. The geometry on mine did not allow a direct hit with the jack being lowered; the front engine plate foot first hit the bolt in the new mount, then slid over the bolt.

Finally, I had to leave the new mounts a bit loose at first so that I could slide a wedge under the nut and bolt that fastens them into the spring housing. Why? Because I needed the wedge to force the engine mounting bolt to "aim" straight at the target--the hole in the engine plate foot.

Hope this wasn't quite the bore it now seems having composed it. (I must be stalling about work tomorrow).

Good luck.

 

[Royal_58]

Thanks for the tips! I used a 2x10 under the oil pan and jacked up the engine with a floor jack. My mounts turned out to be in pretty bad shape. The rubber was seperated from the base plates, no wonder I was getting so much movement. The seperated rubber mount actually made it easier to remove the old mounts. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[tdskip]

Duke - what is easier to work on. The TR3, MGTD or the Apache?

 

[Royal_58]

So far the Triumph. No regulations and no wood!