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TomChar
Senior Member
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It's been a week now, and I finally collected all the new parts together and built myself a new clutch fork and shaft assembly. To the right of the fork is my McMaster-Carr 1/4" shoulder screw and nylock 10-24 nut.
As described in the Buckeye article, my new fork wasn't drilled with a taper (new shaft was though). By installing the pin alone you can see through the end that there is no contact of the pin and the fork on the opposite side. The taper pin needed a little polishing to fit through the new shaft, although once everything was installed, as seen in the right picture, the new taper pin does not seat against the fork. This is due to the threaded end actually contacting the shaft. Without my pin installed it was tight and did not budge, but the original concern as to how this will last is a good one. I had no trouble drilling the fork and shaft with a D drill bit, and the shoulder screw tapped in quite easily. The 1" shoulder length ends just shy of the surface of the fork, so it's very neat. I think this will do well for me.
The shoulder screws for the transmission are a little long, but that's not so bad. It doesn't seem to matter which way they are installed, so I will install them from the engine plate side, with one washer, and I will have two washers worth of shoulder sticking out from the bell housing. That's fine with me, I think it may aid slightly in getting the trans in place. As there's not much room on the bell housing side for washers, I will need to drill out four 1/4" washers to fit over the shoulder, but that's no big deal.
Cheers,
Tom
As described in the Buckeye article, my new fork wasn't drilled with a taper (new shaft was though). By installing the pin alone you can see through the end that there is no contact of the pin and the fork on the opposite side. The taper pin needed a little polishing to fit through the new shaft, although once everything was installed, as seen in the right picture, the new taper pin does not seat against the fork. This is due to the threaded end actually contacting the shaft. Without my pin installed it was tight and did not budge, but the original concern as to how this will last is a good one. I had no trouble drilling the fork and shaft with a D drill bit, and the shoulder screw tapped in quite easily. The 1" shoulder length ends just shy of the surface of the fork, so it's very neat. I think this will do well for me.The shoulder screws for the transmission are a little long, but that's not so bad. It doesn't seem to matter which way they are installed, so I will install them from the engine plate side, with one washer, and I will have two washers worth of shoulder sticking out from the bell housing. That's fine with me, I think it may aid slightly in getting the trans in place. As there's not much room on the bell housing side for washers, I will need to drill out four 1/4" washers to fit over the shoulder, but that's no big deal.
Cheers,
Tom
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