Whats the Proper Way to Remove Tie rods on AH BJ8?

[67BJ8]

I am still working on the Idler bolts. I have to also remove the tie rods. Is a fork the proper way to do this? I am not having much luck with this either. Is there an easy way to get these unhooked from the idler arm?

 

[Randy Forbes]

I've removed them a couple of different ways without damage to them (or me).

The tie-rod "clamp-type" remover is good to apply moderate force on the bolt, then with a pair of nearly equal sized hammers, smack two (2) sides of the arm portion simultaneously. This works without fail for me every time, sometimes without using the clamp.

Heat is another option, most successful when used with the same clamp. I don't recommend heat if you're planning on reusing the rubber boots.

Dry-ice and the clamp is yet another option.

For me, the pickle-fork approach is a last resort.

Try the simultaneous hammer trick :wink:

 

[Keoke]

Hi I AM dead set against the Pickle fork.
There is a tool which is available from the parts supplier that will break the joints loose. Fwiw Keoke

 

[germanmichel]

Hello ,

I know this challenge...for me is the only proper way to use a very cheap aftermarket tool (or professional tool) like this:

https://img.westfalia.de/media/show_image.php?datei_id=84006&max_x=600&max_y=600

Sometimes you have to modify the mouth clearance of the tool a little bit with grinding.
To work with this tool is imho the only way, to do not destroy the thread or forming the bolt with a hammer.
In my experience I expand the tool and additional I have to give a hit on the tool. Than hopefully it should make "plong" and the connection is open.
The fork has the risk to damage the elastic cover. Heat is also not the professional way....
Additional you can use the tips from Randy.

Bye Michel- who is Made in Germany

 

[JamesWilson]

The issue is whether you want to reuse them. If so then hammers, forks and heat can be trouble; and the tool suggested is better, low impact approach.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I am still working on the Idler bolts. I have to also remove the tie rods. Is a fork the proper way to do this? I am not having much luck with this either. Is there an easy way to get these unhooked from the idler arm?

Don't use a fork unless only as a last resort because you will tear the rubber boots(I have two forks now safely out of my reach). There are tools made for this that are shown or described that work much better, (I'd like to see a you-tube video of Randy's assault on a tie rod with two hammers simultaneously hitting the tie rod...LOL). Once you get the tie rods off you need to check the boots and "springs" that hold them on. The boots are avialable and the springs are not(or at least I can't find them), but they be replaced with an "O" rings.
Patrick

 

[67BJ8]

Thanks guys for the help. Where can I get one of the "tools" to get the tie rod ends off?

 

[Legal Bill]

Harbor Freight, if I'm not mistaken.

 

[nevets]

Those front end tools are widely available...Harbor Freight as good as any. I bought a kit of front end tools for under $100 on eBay, which included the one pictured previously. If you replace the boots, buy them from Norman Nock/British Sports Car Specialists. I initially bought some from one of the big suppliers and the quality was poor.

 

[Legal Bill]

I was just on the Moss site and I saw they have them too.

 

[tahoe healey]

When you order form BCS,and many others, ask if you are getting parts that are not from Moss. They are a Moss distributor so you could be getting the same parts as Moss sell. BCS is a very supplier and stand behind what they sell. They have many quality used parts too.

 

[Andy65]

Some of the auto parts stores like Autozone have a loan-a-tool program. It is free. I borrowed a front end kit. Had just about everything in different sizes.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I am still working on the Idler bolts. I have to also remove the tie rods. Is a fork the proper way to do this? I am not having much luck with this either. Is there an easy way to get these unhooked from the idler arm?

Don't use a fork unless only as a last resort because you will tear the rubber boots(I have two forks now safely out of my reach). There are tools made for this that are shown or described that work much better, <span style="font-weight: bold">(I'd like to see a you-tube video of Randy's assault on a tie rod with two hammers simultaneously hitting the tie rod...LOL). </span>Once you get the tie rods off you need to check the boots and "springs" that hold them on. The boots are avialable and the springs are not(or at least I can't find them), but they be replaced with an "O" rings.
Patrick

The problem would be holding the two (2) hammers AND a video camera... :blush:

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I am still working on the Idler bolts. I have to also remove the tie rods. Is a fork the proper way to do this? I am not having much luck with this either. Is there an easy way to get these unhooked from the idler arm?

Don't use a fork unless only as a last resort because you will tear the rubber boots(I have two forks now safely out of my reach). There are tools made for this that are shown or described that work much better, <span style="font-weight: bold">(I'd like to see a you-tube video of Randy's assault on a tie rod with two hammers simultaneously hitting the tie rod...LOL). </span>Once you get the tie rods off you need to check the boots and "springs" that hold them on. The boots are avialable and the springs are not(or at least I can't find them), but they be replaced with an "O" rings.
Patrick

The problem would be holding the two (2) hammers AND a video camera... :blush:

Helmet with camera mounted could work(bikes have them, but who's going to volunteer to hold the tie rod while you swing both hammers??
Patrick

 

[TimK]

This is why I keep coming back to this forum...

 

[67BJ8]

Randy was right!!!!!

I went to Harbor Freight and bought a "ball joint separator" for 20 bucks. It looks like the one in the link above. I tightened up on the ball joint with it and hit the idler arm with a ball pein hammer. The ball joint came loose with a loud pop. I talked to an ex army mechanic and he said that most of the time he gets ball joints loose by smacking them with a 3 lb. ball pein hammer that sets up a vibration and makes them pop without using any kind of puller. I am still trying to get the bolts holding the idler onto the frame loose. Love those Brits for using dissimilar metals together.

Larry

 

[Randy Forbes]

I am still working on the Idler bolts. I have to also remove the tie rods. Is a fork the proper way to do this? I am not having much luck with this either. Is there an easy way to get these unhooked from the idler arm?

Don't use a fork unless only as a last resort because you will tear the rubber boots(I have two forks now safely out of my reach). There are tools made for this that are shown or described that work much better, <span style="font-weight: bold">(I'd like to see a you-tube video of Randy's assault on a tie rod with two hammers simultaneously hitting the tie rod...LOL). </span>Once you get the tie rods off you need to check the boots and "springs" that hold them on. The boots are avialable and the springs are not(or at least I can't find them), but they be replaced with an "O" rings.
Patrick

The problem would be holding the two (2) hammers AND a video camera... :blush:

Helmet with camera mounted could work(bikes have them, <span style="font-weight: bold">but who's going to volunteer to hold the tie rod while you swing both hammers??</span>
Patrick

The tie rods don't need holding, they're stuck on the car; if they weren't, the hammers could stay in the drawer :wink:

 

[tahoe healey]

Yes, and it is out tax dollars to replace the parts. Go Army!