TR6 TR6: Pulling the Diff

[Webb]

Ah, well. I'm back. I've been waiting for the past 3 months on some (explitive) .040" pistons to come in from Moss...seems they've been backordered for quite a while. While I'm watching the warm weather come with an engine-less TR6 in need of it's second rebuild in the past year (don't get me started on the machine shop), I've thought of pulling out the diff to have it rebuilt and possibly weld in some new mounts, as I suspect the double clunk from the back end is coming from both a worn out diff and rusted mounts.

Anyone have tips to make this process easier? I'm just going to follow the Bentley otherwise. Also, what's the hypoid case? Manual says to remove that first, but I'm not familiar with the term.

 

[Tinster]

Webb:

The diffy removal is quick and easy if you have a
lift available. Slow with road dirt in your face
if the car is on jack stands.

Not complicated either way. Pretty much, you disconnect
both sliding axles and the drive shaft from the diffy.
That's 12 locknuts to remove. Unbolt the 4 diffy mounts
and it's down and out.

Order new oil seals and rear case gasket while you have it
out. A double thunk sure sounds like a broken passenger side
front diffy mount. You can buy a new box and stud from TRF.

Hypoid case? I'm a non-mechanic guy, I thought the entire
diffy case was called the hypoid case.

Here's a blow up-

Good luck! Dale

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36487

 

[BritBox]

Good morning Webb,

The hypoid case is the differential.

It seems to take as much time to get the exhaust system out of the way as it does to actually remove the diff. The axle flanges are a pain because there's not much room to swing your wrenches. Be sure to use new locknuts AND Loctite on the axle flange bolts. Do a search for other threads that discuss various diff mount options--rubber, poly, etc. Grease everything while you're down there. Have a decent jack ready to lower the weight of the differential unless you want to collapse your chest cavity.

I did my support repairs while the body tub was off the frame. I have heard that welding is much easier if you cut out sections of the tub above the mounts and then close them up again. You won't know for sure until you pull the diff and see what's up. I've also been back under there to swap diffs but had no frame repairs at that time.

Good luck--take your time.

 

[Webb]

Hypoid case? I'm a non-mechanic guy, I thought the entire
diffy case was called the hypoid case.

Here's a blow up-

Good luck! Dale

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36487

Well, you know how the Bentley manual and those crazy Brits like to make everything complicated!

Thanks for the info fellas.

 

[DNK]

Who is that guy using dale's moniker. What happen to the guy who is afraid of bleeding brakes but has the cajones to tell how to drop the diff!!!

 

[Webb]

Is it possible that worn U-joints could be causing the clunking? I checked out the mounts today, and from a visual inspection, the welds looked fine. Also written on the diff itself is a rebuild date of sometime in 1995.

 

[BritBox]

U-joints, worn axle splines (where the shafts telescope), or general slop in_all_the axle and suspension components could contribute. Since you're down there anyway, keep poking around a little.

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

It could be something as simple as really worn trailing arm bushes. My latest clunks were actually in the transmission. (The counter shaft lock plate broke in two.)