TR4A mounting pins have been known to develop cracks and become loose. Especially the front right pin. This results in the infamous clunk in the rear of these cars. So, inspect carefully.
I had my diff out last year for rebuild. Fortunately, the mounting pins were OK. I just sanded them and repainted with some black chassis paint. If they are cracked, any of the big three make repair and reinforcement kits. Welding upside down is not fun, so I am told! Also, if it is a body on repair, then access to the top of the diff bridge will have to come by cutting through the parcel shelf in the interior compartment.
When it came time to replace the diff, I chose to go with stock rubber bushings since I had heard that for street use they are plenty good and the added vibration transmitted from urethane bushings may accelerate cracking of the mounting pins. I did however, make two modifications: 1) the hole drilled in the rubber bushings were much larger than the pin it slides over. So, I sleeved the pins with a length of poly vinyl tubing (1/2” ID x 5/8” OD) to remove all play. This allowed the bushing to fit perfectly over the pin with no play, 2) for the rear mount washer (the big rusty washer in your first photo), I fabricated custom differential mount stabilizer cups with stainless steel. Basically, I welded a 1/2" high wall around the edge of the washer. This acts to "cup" the rubber bushing and remove some of the lateral squirm.
Bob