TR6 This could be interesting TR6 350 V-8

[DougF]

I have no problem with people modifying these cars since there were so many built, butchering a few can only help the value of mine. Unfortunately, the person who built this car took what appears to have been a perfectly good sportscar and destroyed it. All it is now is a straight line racer, since it would be so front heavy, it could never make the first turn.
From what I can tell though, there was nothing done to the rearend. So it wouldn't even be a straight line racer. And the tires on it would never grab the road even at moderate throttle. Maybe it could be a show car, it says it was restored.
But there appears to have been nothing done to the under carriage, period. So, it's no good for show.
The automatic transmission speaks for itself.
I'll have to put a lot of thought into what it might be good for other than an excellent example of what not to do.
Years ago, there was a similarly concepted car in my hometown. A Bugeye with a 327. The owner would only race for money. Rearends were cheap.
There are many examples of excellent racetorations that I have seen at shows, on the internet, and in magazines. Unfortunately, this is not one of them.

 

[Tinster]

Hey Paul,

The brand new coil, new plugs, new plug wires,
new battery, new GM alternator and complete car
wires with Dan Masters wire harness and Power
block are all mine.

I should have the new distributor from Jeff in maybe
a week or so. He is going to build me one with points
and also Pertronix electronics.

But it seems I will have another really major problem
on my hands when the new distributor arrives. I'm pretty
sure I messed up the timing twisting the old distributor
to try to get it out.

I have no idea how to even begin setting the timing.
I am hoping the Crypt Car might start right out of
the gate box with the new distributor and run just
enough that I can drive it the 2 miles over to
Western Auto to get the timing set.

The only PO electronic component remaining is the
starter and it's making odd, screeching noises.

regards,

D

 

[swift6]

[ QUOTE ]

The only PO electronic component remaining is the
starter and it's making odd, screeching noises.

[/ QUOTE ]

Those starters are actually really easy to rebuild. Your bearing are probably really worn out. Mostly a mechanical exercise too, no electrons to worry about while your doing it. Just make sure all the wires go back where you found them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Harry_Ward]

Dale,

Sorry, you probably won't be able to just plug the new distributor in and just go. There will be a few things you will need to do first. Of course there is always a chance but highly unlikely. Did you preset the old distributor to any setting or mark prior to removal to align the new distributor to the old distributor drive gear? Not a big deal but it saves some time. Oh, and this V-8 thing here is not for you. keep the Crypt Car! I am a member of the chevy forum and believe me you it is not a user friendly place and completely different than this site. Very rude and impatient people over there.

 

[Brosky]

Dale, I'm sure your manual covers it, but it's actually much easier than the domestic cars with multi-tooth gears. Oh, sorry about the coil. I thought it was original.

First of all, did you note the position of the rotor when you removed the distributor? If so, you are 95% there. You simply need to line it back up with the rotor in the same position as it came out. With the slot gear on the bottom of the distributor, you will be on the money or 180 degrees out.

So let's assume that you didn't note the spot and mark the cap. Now just take out the number one spark plug. You will want to follow your manual to bring the engine up to top dead center on the compression stroke and at that point when you install the distributor, the rotor will be pointing to the number one tower inside the cap. When you install the distributor only tighten it down enough to allow you to turn it with tension against it. More on that later.

While you are doing this, observe the timing mark indicator and the degrees engraved into the crankshaft pulley. I would mark the (0) zero and the 12 degree mark with white chalk so that they stand out from the others and also mark the indicator so you can see when they line up together later.

That will get you close enough to where it should start. Turning the advance/retard unit towards the battery will advance the timing and moving it away will retard it.

Do you have a timing light? You will need one and get one with an inductive pickup that attaches to the number one spark plug wire, attached closest to the plug. Connect the positive wire to the positive battery post and connect the negative to a good ground on your block.

Once the car starts you will need to get it warmed up and as close to 850 to 900 rpms as possible. At that point,with the car running and being mindful of the wires from the timing light and spinning fan blade, point the light at the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. Disconnect the advance/retard unit and plug the line coming from the carbs so there are no vacuum leaks. The idle will probably stay the same but if not you may have to adjust the curb idle screws up or down to get to the appx. 900 range.

Adjust the timing either advanced or retarded to get you to the 12 degree mark. With the distributor semi-tight you can now check your idle again. Advancing it will speed up the idle and retarding it will go down.

If the idle is high, bring it down and look at the timing again. You may have to move it up again a bit, but you will get to the right spot with a little tweaking. That's why we call it tuning! When you have a nice smooth idle of 900RPM and 12 degrees above top dead center, you will be pretty darn close to where you are now able to tweak the carbs with advice from Jeff the carb man and you're on your way to the beach.

 

[Tinster]

Paul: Maybe not too far gone after all.

Dale, the electrical klutz, did indeed make marks.
(But apparently not the correct marks !)

I tagged all the plug wires (marked them A thru F).
I then put stickers A thru F on the valve cover
over each spark plug. I then stickered the distributor
cap piece with A thru F where the wires come in.

I removed the cap and plug wires as one single piece
and set it aside to mail to Jeff tomorrow.

The rotor arm gizzmo is still inside the body
of the distributor. I was unsuccessful in removing
the distributor. According to Bentley, I "loosened the
single nut and bolt clamp " and attempted to extract
the unit. It rotated a bit but would not lift out.

It is still in the car. So maybe I did not screw things
up so badly??

I figured there must be some kind of right angle gear
drive below, so I used only moderate upward force in
my attempt to extract the distributor. Nothing crunched
or made breaking sounds. Didn't lift out either!

I'm now thinking maybe to rent a repair bay for a day
with a mechanic team from Western Auto and have the
TR towed over there to have the distributor installed
and the timing set.

The install instructions and timing light thing sound
way too spooky above my electrical capabilities. But
I'll take a look at all the pieces when they arrive
and think about it.

Thanks for the detailed instructions. If I don't use
them, I am sure the mechanic at WA will appreciate them.

regards as always,

d

 

[jeff3113]

[ QUOTE ]
All it is now is a straight line racer, since it would be so front heavy, it could never make the first turn.


[/ QUOTE ]
I would have to disagree....My SBC setup is about 70 lbs more in the engine category. A few more with the 700r4. That really does not make it a problem in ANY turns. Not a straight line racer in any way. Only problem is you're going tooo fast too soon to want to "turn" a car that is 60 inches wide... I would so like to show someone that it is really not like one would think. Yeah, you can tell it has more weight up there....but not like you would imagine!

Honestly it has turned out to be (IMHO) a much better experience than I ever would have imaged when starting that "conversion". I can accelerate faster, corner AS well* and it stops fast enough to lock the tires!!
WHEW.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

*I have a 2.4 turn L-T-L Ford Mustang power steering setup you'd have to try to believe!! ONE FINGER!!

It ain't the old TR.....problem is driving it so you don't get a ticket.....

jeff3113 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Brosky]

Hold on a minute! You've done far harder things than this.

Put the cap and wires all back on and move the distributor back to where it was before you started moving it around. Now mark the cap where the rotor is pointing with a piece of tape. It doesn't have to be with .010", just so you know which lobe inside the cap it was pointing to. Now when you get it back there is only one way to install it and you'll be close enough that it will start.

Next step, will be to remove the cap and set it aside away from the distributor, but still wired up to the plugs. If you have removed the bolt holding down the bracket that holds down the distributor, just twist and lift up on the distributor. It's just be held in by gunk and hydraulic lock up from old oil. And don't worry of the oil seal ring comes of broken. You don't need it anyhow. You may have to tug a bit, but it will come.

Make sure that you have the hold down clamp bolt out, not the clamp that goes around the distributor with the square nut on it. That's just for adjusting.

Come on, Dale, you've almost got it on your own.

 

[Tinster]

Paul,

I more or less came up with that concept.
Except I took many photos and DID NOT remove
the rotor arm. After I sticker identified
everything I taped the rotor in place and
taped the bottom moving ring of the distributor.
I packaged the whole kit and kaboddle and sent
it off to Jeff this morning.

Photo attached

Wendy says if this new distributor does make the
car run (streetable), a tow truck to local car crusher
will be ordered during one of my business trips
to the other side of the island.

 

[Guest]

The bumpers are interesting. I saw a V8 MGB conversion that had beautifully painted bumpers at our show a few years ago. Twas gorgeous. This TR6 is just cute. The underside scares the dickens out of me. Also, a very small point. In some states, modifying the federally mandated safety features of a car will get it booted. The TR6 had padded dash, not because British Leyland was trying to be nice, they had too. Your noggin would not like a steel dash pad.



Bill

 

[Brosky]

Dale you'll be running in no time, once you get that distributor back.

And if I don't get my golf game back soon, I may just take you up on that offer to come south sooner rather than later!

 

[TheAssociate]

Like: Power brakes? That's trick. Color. Paint looks good.

Dislike: Automatic. 350 V8? O.K. Rover V8 more suiting. I would immediately throw all the "color-matched" stuff in the garbage.

I wonder if you could put a 5-speed from a 90's chev 1500 pickup in?

Adam H.
____________________________________________________________
1972 Triumph Spitfire.

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
Like: Power brakes? That's trick.






____________________________________________________________


[/ QUOTE ]

All TR6s have power brakes already. That is what your vacumm assist brake servo is.



Bill

 

[danmas]

[ QUOTE ]
Rover V8 more suiting.

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually, the best choice for a V8 in a TR6 is the Ford 302 with aluminum heads. It weighs 35 pounds LESS than the stock engine, is slightly smaller externally than either the Chevy or the Rover, provides more power for less money than the Rover, and parts are much more readily avaiable for it than the Rover.

However, don't knock the Chevy. A friend has a Chevy powered TR6 that I drive often. There's not a stock TR6 on the planet that'll keep up with it, on the straights OR in the twisties. If done right, the extra weight of the Chevy is not a factor.

 

[tomshobby]

danmas,
Check out this aluminum block and heads Chevy 350 for price and performance. I thought the 302 looked best too and wonder how this 350 might compare.
https://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/LS...61-P929C53.aspx
I have been browsing v-8's for a while just for fun and this looks pretty good to me. Even the exhaust manifolds are close to the block.