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Tips
Tips

Sidescreen renovation

DerekJ

Luke Skywalker
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I'm in the process of ordering new perspex for my sidescreens and wanted some tips on removing the old pieces which are fixed in place. I'd also like to know how to fix the new pieces in place so they don't slide. Are they glued?

In addition the frames are scuffed and I'd appreciate any tips for cleaning these up and generally improving their appearance

cheers /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
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DerekJ

DerekJ

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Hi again

here's another question

Does anyone have the webpage address of the guy in the US that makes Sidescreen bags. It was mentioned on the Healey list a few months ago.

Its something like www.sidecurtains. com (but thats not it)

cheers
 

bob hughes

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Derek, I have had two 100/6's, both BN4s and on both of them, the screens were fabricated in pieces and held together in the corners by metal brackets, The brackets were located on the outside of the frame and had two screws on each leg into the frame. The sliding screen was held in an additional frame screw fixed to the outside of the main frame. It sounds as if your frames are all in one piece? If so, I can only assume that you gently bend the perspex to remove it out of the frames. The frames were anodised I think and this is difficult to refurbish, as I understand it the anodising should be removed and the frames re anodised. I just polished the frames on the last one regardless as i had to fill in some holes with Alumaweld after some philistine drilled the frames to provide straps to hold them together as the corner brackets had snapped, I made new brackets, it improved the look but but they were not the best.
Bob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 

Rob Glasgow

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Derek, I refurbished the sidescreens on my 1960 BT7 about 3 months ago. These are the solid frames. There are not held together with corner brackets and do not come apart. These are the steps I took.
1. Removed the old plexiglas by bowing the middle of each pane until they came out of the frame. Removed the old felt.
The front pane is held in place by several crimps in the leading edge of the frame. You may have to pry out the plastic and then use a screwdriver to spread the areas that were crimped. Clean out the grooves.
2. I had the old anodising removed by a chrome plating shop. Cost $40. I read somewhere later you can remove anodising yourself with a lye and water solution, but haven't tried it.
3. Lightly sanded the frames with 400 grit to remove most of the scratches.
4. Buffed the frames with an electric drill and cloth wheel. Used metal polish. Took about 6 hours to do both frames. They now shine like chrome. It's not the original satin look but very attractive.
5. Put a small amount (a dab every two inches)of clear silicon in tracks before installing new felt. Make sure the felt is centered in the track so there is a equal amount on each side of the groove before you push the felt down in the track. Use piece of the old plexiglass to push the felt all the way down in the groove.
6. Installed the new panes from the outside of the frame. The rear slider pane goes in first. Insert the bottom first, bow the plasic enough to get the top into the groove. Don't worry, the plastic will bend without breaking. Side it back and forth enough to make sure its positioned in the felt.
7. I put a few more dabs of clear silicon in the bottom and sides of the groove before installing the front, non-sliding pane to make sure it stayed in place and didn't rattle. Push it all the way forward into the front part of the frame. Once the silicon sets, use a small punch to carefully crimp the pane at the two places on the front edge of the frame.
8. I painted the mounting brackets with silver hammer- finnish spray paint. Again not original, but close to the look of the cad plating.
You will be very happy with the results. Plus the veiw out the new clear windows is delightful.
 
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DerekJ

DerekJ

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Thanks for the tips guys. My sidescreens are the one piece type. I figured as they are aluminium they should be able to be polished up. with a lot of hard work!

BTW the web page for the guy who makes the bags is

www.sidecurtain.com

I was close!

cheers /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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DerekJ

DerekJ

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Rob

I was just web surfing for 'de-anodising' and came across a Monster Truck list! A couple of listers recommended Drano or Liquid Plumber!!

BTW - you did this three months ago, I suppose you are going to have to keep polishing or the aluminium will form a dull oxide layer? what do you think?

cheers /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

GregW

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Hi Derek,
I hear Easy-Off oven cleaner will strip an anodized finish. I found "3M Marine Aluminum Restorer and Polish" makes alum (and stainless) look like chrome. You can get it at West Marine if you have one in your area. Some parts that I polished a few years ago are still shiny after clear coating with a rattle can.
 

Rob Glasgow

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Derek, I don't think you will have any issues with the frames becoming dull. I stripped the paint off the windshield side posts on my BT7, twenty years ago and polished them to a chrome like finish. I did not apply any clear coat. Once a year I polish them a little and apply a coat of wax. They sparkle all year long. My car is kept in the garage so that may help.
If you want to try to strip the anodized finish, just get some Red Devil brand lye drain cleaner at the hardware store. It also works well to cure olives!!
 

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