replacement nuts, bolts, screws, etc.

[whit_iii]

I just posted how one would remove damaged nuts, bolts, etc. within the tool forum. I post this question here as I am curious how folks get replacement nuts, bolts, screws, etc. for Austin Healey's.

Side note: so far all of the light assemblies have been removed successfully and the left front body panel has half of the bolts removed. Slowly, but surely.....

Thanks for your help.

Don


===================>
Hello,

I have just started restoring an AH 100-6 and unfortunately have already stripped a few screws. I saw a couple of tools for this. Particularly "Craftsman 3 pc. Screw-Out™ Damaged Screw Remover Set" and "Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out". I am not sure how either of these work or if there are better products to help with this. Also, how can one try to prevent stripping the screws, etc. to begin with? From other postings I am worried about being able to find replacement parts.

Thanks for the help.
Don

 

[whit_iii]

also, what is a tap and die kit?

I have read that one should probably have a tap and die kit, but I am not really sure how to use it let alone whether or not I would. Have other folks used a tap and die kit?

 

[Keoke]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

Hi Whit__III, Yes the die's are used to restore threads on machine screws and studs while the tap's are primarily used to restore threads in threaded holes or nuts both tools take a bit of practice to use correctly.---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[BlackHealey]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

Hi whit iii, I bought a tap and die kit half way through my restoration and I ended up using it a lot. With all the pre-tapped holes or welded nuts on the Healey chassis, the taps really helped clean out the threads after we painted the chassis. No matter how careful you try to be, overspray tends to lodge itself in fine threads! I would highly recommend a tap and die kit for the DIY restorer. They do take some practice, especially trying to keep the tap straight.

 

[PC]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

Important note for anybody new to taps, dies, and threaded fasteners:

Never, ever, ever chase the threads on a critical or heavily loaded bolt or stud (i.e. one that would make you very unhappy if it broke while you were driving, bolts on brake rotors, con rods, heads, diff carriers, etc) with a die. It will break when stressed.

If you find a critical or heavily loaded fastener with messed up threads replace it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif


PC.

 

[whit_iii]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

Thanks for the info guys. Any thoughts on how to replace the nuts, bolts and screws if needed? Someone recommended JC Whitney. I saw they had a 367-PC. METRIC BOLT, NUT AND WASHER KIT & 755-PC. METRIC BOLT, NUT AND WASHER KIT available. I would like to buy them up front so that I find the replacement right away if one is missing or broken so that I can store them with their counterparts.

I will have to investigate the tap & die set as well. Any thoughts on a price range as well as a good set?

Thanks again.
Don

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

Hi Don,
I don't think there are any metric fasteners on your car. Mostly BSF & maybe a few Whitworth. Have a look here:
https://www.britishfasteners.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

I have found "Kroil" to be one of the best penetrating oils. Whatever you use, apply it liberally a couple of days ahead of time.

You might be better off to get the correct fasteners as you need them, or make a list & plan ahead. You can find most of the needed fasteners here, I'm sure there are other places also. This is actually a pretty good parts manual.
https://www.mossmotors.com/Browse/ComponentMenuProducts.aspx?WebCatalogID=2&PlateTypeID=1
D

 

[whit_iii]

Re: replacement screws, bolts, etc.

Thanks for the info. I actually have a Moss Catalog and have also looked at their site. I think part of my problem is I am so incredibly ignorant regarding some of the terminology and descriptions. For example, I stripped a few screws on the door hinges. The Moss site itself references 100 & 3000 models, but I am not sure if that matters. Also, when I look at their diagrams, the screw I stripped had a block shaped phillips head and was a significantly sized thread and head. The items they have listed do not appear to match my own. I think my ignorance is showing here again as I thought I could easily find a match on-line with a picture or go to a hardware store and match the missing/damaged screws, bolts, etc. Additional research within the british fastener site would seem to indicate one has to cut and create their own screws using a tap and die kit.

Using my door screw example, how does one ensure they match the replacment correctly?

Thanks for your help.
Don

 

[pbraun]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

[ QUOTE ]

Never, ever, ever chase the threads on a critical or heavily loaded bolt or stud (i.e. one that would make you very unhappy if it broke while you were driving, bolts on brake rotors, con rods, heads, diff carriers, etc) with a die. It will break when stressed.
PC.

[/ QUOTE ]

Do tell why. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I've chased out a fair amount of head stud holes, etc... and have not encountered a failure.
TIA !
Cheers

 

[John Loftus]

Re: replacement screws, bolts, etc.

[ QUOTE ]
Also, when I look at their diagrams, the screw I stripped had a block shaped phillips head and was a significantly sized thread and head. The items they have listed do not appear to match my own.


[/ QUOTE ]

The Moss diagrams are not always accurate. I think they are reprints from the factory parts manual and can be somewhat generic to apply to different models. You can call Moss and ask them if the particular part is an accurate replacement. Not too much of their stuff is a concours accurate (original replacement) but is mainly reproduction accurate. This is fine for a driver. One of the great things about Moss is that they are liberal with their 6 month return policy. If you don't like something about the part, just send it back. You will be out shipping most of the time (unless there was something defective with the part) but there are not any restocking fees for regular items. A great shop for hard to find items is British Car Specialists www.britishcarspecialists.com They have a good supply of correct fasteners. Clarke Spares, Healey Surgeons, Just Brits and others can also help you out when Moss tells you it is N/A.

Cheers,
John

 

[Keoke]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

HI Peter, I hve to agree with both you and PC. PC limits use of the "DIE" based upon good practice While you acknowledge acceptable uses for the "TAP". of couse it also depends on the experience of the individual as to what one should do.---Keoke

 

[PC]

Re: also, what is a tap and die kit?

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

Never, ever, ever chase the threads on a critical or heavily loaded bolt or stud (i.e. one that would make you very unhappy if it broke while you were driving, bolts on brake rotors, con rods, heads, diff carriers, etc) with a die. It will break when stressed.
PC.

[/ QUOTE ]

Do tell why. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I've chased out a fair amount of head stud holes, etc... and have not encountered a failure....

[/ QUOTE ]Those were internal threads, which are tapped to begin with and surrounded by great gobs of metal so they weren't too heavily stressed in the first place. The stud itself is a different story.

A piece of metal doesn't fail all over at once. It will fail starting at the single point where the applied stress first exceeds the material's yield strength. The failure will then spread from that initial point, called a stress riser, and continue to total failure.

Cutting a piece of metal shears it apart. A long cutting process using multiple cutting teeth (like a threading die) introduces millions of microscopic fractures, each one a stress riser with the potential to become a failure point.

External threads on high quality fasteners (bolts and studs) are roll formed, not cut with a die. By roll forming they have continuous molecular grain without microscopic fractures. There are fewer points for failures to start.

Additionally, under most circumstances metals fail due to tension overstress. By pressing the treads in with roll forming the metal is pre-compressed. In order to transition into tension an applied stress must first overcome the fastener's internal compression. This provides extra overhead before approaching the material's limits, further increasing strength.

Applying pre-compression to delay tension stress is also the reason for shot-peening highly stressed components like con rods. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif


PC.

 

[Johnny]

Hi Don, welcome to the Forum. I bought a cheap tap/die set from Harbour Freight and was satisfied with it. I think it only cost about $20. It also came with a thread checking tool that I used a lot. you just opened it up like a feeler gauge set and through trial and error measured the bolt/screw threads until you got a perfect fit. The thread size is marked on the checker. The die's were great for cleaning up threads on various bolts to be reused. However, on most cases it was just easier to replace the screw/bolt. I found ACE hardware was a good source. I also reccomend using stainless steel fasteners on almost everything. I did use cad plated bolts on some applicatons. I also purchased from Moss their fender fastener kits, they come pretty much complete with all you'll need, including the clips.
Good luck with your restoration, how about some photo's?

 

[whit_iii]

Thank you for the feedback. I posted a shot of when my father in law and I loaded the AH onto a trailer for its return to Boston. It is listed within the AH section for members. I will have to investigate the kits you all have mentioned.