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TR6 Transmission front seal replacement question

nichola

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I have replaced leaking seals at the front of the differential and and the rear of the transmission (4 speed no overdrive). This transmission has spent 10 months on its nose (bell housing) with gear oil inside and hasn't left a single drop. I'm leaning towards not touching that seal since it hasn't leaked. Sound okay?

Regarding the clutch release shaft - what a pain in the rear that was. The pin locking the fork to the shaft broke at the end and I could not extract the bit that was left inside. Eventually I gave up and cut the shaft and removed it. Still could not get that little bit of the pin out, so I added a new fork to the order.

ps, I made a real simple tool that I used to remove the other seals - see photos. It is 1" by 1/8" flat bar bent over and trimmed so it hooks the inner side of the seal. The other end is also bent 90 degrees but long enough to strike with a hammer. Overall length is 18" approximately. Just a few taps as I moved it around the circumference did the job. The "L" that hooks the back of the seal is about 3/8 - 7/32 and rounded a little to match the seal curvature. This explanation took longer than it took to make the tool.
 

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CJD

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The front seal is one of those things...if you’re in the area it’s cheap and easy to replace. If it’s closed up and not leaking, then don’t worry about it.

I am sure you know the fixes to prevent the broken pin?
 
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nichola

nichola

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The front seal is one of those things...if you’re in the area it’s cheap and easy to replace. If it’s closed up and not leaking, then don’t worry about it.

I am sure you know the fixes to prevent the broken pin?

Haven't read a fix for the pin except don't overtighten and do use a safety wire.

I have the new front seal on hand and the transmission is sitting on the bench. It's just that I'm getting gunshy about replacing things and then running into more problems. Like the pin fiasco.
 

CJD

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That shaft is really cheap, so don’t sweat cutting it off. After spending hours trying to work the pin out using other techniques, the next time I encountered it I saws-alled the shaft in less than a minute and decided that is the way to go.

The extra bolt is the proven fix to ever breaking another pin.

As for the front seal, It’s an easy job with little to go wrong. You should not have to remove the input shaft, but if you do the only tricky part is to be careful not to tilt the pilot shaft as it goes back in. It should have roller bearings between it and the main shaft, so you don’t want those to drop out.
 
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nichola

nichola

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That shaft is really cheap, so don’t sweat cutting it off. After spending hours trying to work the pin out using other techniques, the next time I encountered it I saws-alled the shaft in less than a minute and decided that is the way to go.

The extra bolt is the proven fix to ever breaking another pin.

As for the front seal, It’s an easy job with little to go wrong. You should not have to remove the input shaft, but if you do the only tricky part is to be careful not to tilt the pilot shaft as it goes back in. It should have roller bearings between it and the main shaft, so you don’t want those to drop out.

Hey, how'd you know my middle name was Go-Wrong? I didn't mind cutting that shaft after a day of trying to get that pin out. But I should have just left the shaft and fork alone because it was easy enough to get to the seal. I saw that the two pins on the fork had a flat side where they pushed on the throwout bearing sleeve. I thought that was wear, but now I've read it may have been filed that way intentionally. I've learned my lesson: go to the forum.
 

Madflyer

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Hay guys thanks for the memories. I am doing my front timing chain and cover seal and radiator* ( *cant be repaired new coming ) and what ever this week been 25 years. Next week comes the trans, clutch, flywheel gear and new starter and needed seals and most likely any thing I find. As for the fork hope is still good, to note I never start my car in gear or sit long at lights with clutch in. Question did your role pin on the throw out bearing collier stay. The last time not only did the fork have flats but made cups at the role pin I simply drilled the collier and moved the pin to remove some of the slop. The last will be adding the Backlight Top ( surrey top )and removing roll bar and soft top completely. With so much time and canceled vacation spend the money honey. Madflyer
 
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nichola

nichola

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Hay guys thanks for the memories. I am doing my front timing chain and cover seal and radiator* ( *cant be repaired new coming ) and what ever this week been 25 years. Next week comes the trans, clutch, flywheel gear and new starter and needed seals and most likely any thing I find. As for the fork hope is still good, to note I never start my car in gear or sit long at lights with clutch in. Question did your role pin on the throw out bearing collier stay. The last time not only did the fork have flats but made cups at the role pin I simply drilled the collier and moved the pin to remove some of the slop. The last will be adding the Backlight Top ( surrey top )and removing roll bar and soft top completely. With so much time and canceled vacation spend the money honey. Madflyer

The roll pin was still in the sleeve on mine.
 
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