Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I know there's a gasket for the rear oil seal housing - its a "U" shaped thing - that goes between the block & the seal housing itself.
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Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Hi Tony, What I had in mind for Jack was a component for his engine Like the "Rear Seal Conversion " kit Moss Part # 833-415 Used on the Big Healey engines they work a treat.---Keoke
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Here is another thought if the usual suspects do not have one for these smaller engines. Mini Mania may be a source for one--Keoke-???
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Here is another thought if the usual suspects do not have one for these smaller engines. Mini Mania may be a source for one--Keoke-???
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I'll look in my Mini Mania catalog
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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<span style="color: #FF0000">Anyone see a source a bit less restrictive to the pocket book MM wants like $249.</span>
Does anyone know how oil that gets past the flange on the flywheel is supose to get back into the crank or is it not.
I see that Mini Mania has a rear seal at 1 1/4 inch and 2 inch. <span style="color: #FF6666">I assume a 948 Bugeye is 1 1/4 is that correct?</span>
I looked at the pic but do not see how that thing gets around the crank, you sure can't slip it on the end, it has to be in two half moons? <span style="color: #FF6666">Anyone see a better pic anywhere?</span>
<span style="color: #FF6666">Anyone have a end cap to look at?</span>
I put that darn thing in, the eyebrow peice and know I did it correctly. I also know the tolarance is real real tight. No way to get a feeler in there but it is so close it looks like it is touching even. I even used a straight edge on the eyebrow to make sure it was not warped or something.
I did note however that there was no way to adjust the lower scroll seal as it is part of the rear bearing cap and what you see is what you get. But from what I could see it was a real real close fit to the crank.
Shaired the leak with wife, she said well pull it again till you get it right. I am inclined to agree with her, however untill I know what to do that I have not done it seems a bit senceless.
Does anyone know how oil that gets past the flange on the flywheel is supose to get back into the crank or is it not.
I see that Mini Mania has a rear seal at 1 1/4 inch and 2 inch. <span style="color: #FF6666">I assume a 948 Bugeye is 1 1/4 is that correct?</span>
I looked at the pic but do not see how that thing gets around the crank, you sure can't slip it on the end, it has to be in two half moons? <span style="color: #FF6666">Anyone see a better pic anywhere?</span>
<span style="color: #FF6666">Anyone have a end cap to look at?</span>
I put that darn thing in, the eyebrow peice and know I did it correctly. I also know the tolarance is real real tight. No way to get a feeler in there but it is so close it looks like it is touching even. I even used a straight edge on the eyebrow to make sure it was not warped or something.
I did note however that there was no way to adjust the lower scroll seal as it is part of the rear bearing cap and what you see is what you get. But from what I could see it was a real real close fit to the crank.
Shaired the leak with wife, she said well pull it again till you get it right. I am inclined to agree with her, however untill I know what to do that I have not done it seems a bit senceless.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Well Jack, that is a bit pricey. However the price probably reflects the dollar's demise on the market. Maybe Tony can shave a dime or two off. OTOH, if the tolerances of the seal are as tight as you say then the seal will only leak a small bit. It's design is such that when it quits pumping, engine off, the purposely long scrolls will retain an amount of oil that can simply run out the back end. If this is now your case I wouldn't be too concerned over the leak.
Please note: if the seal lip does not leak to lubricate its self it will wear the shaft and become a big leaker later on.
I Missed it initially some one put the MM webpage up on this forum. The seal is quite a complex piece of hardware and this may account for its cost.
Please note: if the seal lip does not leak to lubricate its self it will wear the shaft and become a big leaker later on.
I Missed it initially some one put the MM webpage up on this forum. The seal is quite a complex piece of hardware and this may account for its cost.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
Really guys, I'm sure someone told me that Paul (morriservice) has a solution.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
If I leave it at idle like adjusting the carbs for five min or so I will get a plate size splotch on the floor.
I really don't have a big deal about removeing the engine again, forth time, I'm getting quite good at it. But would like a real solution before I do so.
All my Bugeyes have leaked but not that much.
I really don't have a big deal about removeing the engine again, forth time, I'm getting quite good at it. But would like a real solution before I do so.
All my Bugeyes have leaked but not that much.
sqbsprite
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Jack,
I went thru nearly the exact scenario when I built my 1275. I too removed the engine 3 times and each time I only found oil coming from the scroll seal area. I know this may sound crazy, but I think I read in one of your threads that you had a vent hose connected to the valve cover and a somewhere else. The 1275 valve cover should only have a small orifice not a large tube like the 948. My oil leak stopped nearly completely when I ran a hose from the intake manifold directly to the front cover with a PCV valve in it. The valve cover has nothing attached to it and no other hoses. The 1275 must vent from the front and it needs a lot of negative pressure. I think you should try this before you take the engine out again. You have strong oil pressure and new rings. I think you have a ventilation problem. I would bet that the seal kits do not work well on 1275 because of the crankcase pressure. I have 70 psi cold and 45 hot with only a drop or two of oil leaking. Before, I was getting a huge puddle and a drip about once per second at idle. That's just my opinion on what worked for me.I wrote all of this on some earlier threads back in the spring when I first joined the forum and on SpriteSpot also.
I went thru nearly the exact scenario when I built my 1275. I too removed the engine 3 times and each time I only found oil coming from the scroll seal area. I know this may sound crazy, but I think I read in one of your threads that you had a vent hose connected to the valve cover and a somewhere else. The 1275 valve cover should only have a small orifice not a large tube like the 948. My oil leak stopped nearly completely when I ran a hose from the intake manifold directly to the front cover with a PCV valve in it. The valve cover has nothing attached to it and no other hoses. The 1275 must vent from the front and it needs a lot of negative pressure. I think you should try this before you take the engine out again. You have strong oil pressure and new rings. I think you have a ventilation problem. I would bet that the seal kits do not work well on 1275 because of the crankcase pressure. I have 70 psi cold and 45 hot with only a drop or two of oil leaking. Before, I was getting a huge puddle and a drip about once per second at idle. That's just my opinion on what worked for me.I wrote all of this on some earlier threads back in the spring when I first joined the forum and on SpriteSpot also.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
20-50 Castrol.
Cold 60 upon start.
Operating temp. 20 idle, 40 2500 RPM, have not gone over that, fresh engine.
Oil pressure is great, finaly got that sorted.
This is a 948 engine, so has vents on valve cover and chest cover both are big and open. When I am messing tomorrow I will check and see what kind of pressures I have from those tubes but no oil is comming from them.
Cold 60 upon start.
Operating temp. 20 idle, 40 2500 RPM, have not gone over that, fresh engine.
Oil pressure is great, finaly got that sorted.
This is a 948 engine, so has vents on valve cover and chest cover both are big and open. When I am messing tomorrow I will check and see what kind of pressures I have from those tubes but no oil is comming from them.