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Progress-new thread Monday

There is a 1/2 inch vent pipe 3" long next to the oil filler cap and it is clear.

Compression? This engine rebuild has less than 3 miles on it.
 
Jack
Are you still getting this? Oil under pressure?

Lots of oil like it is just running out under pressure it seems. Does not leak when engine is off. I know the scroll end plate is in there and safety wired and I know the rear bearing is in there, can't think what it might be. HELP!



Mark
 
Jack

Did you check the end float of the crank when you built up the engine?

Mark
 
Yep, end float ia fine, standard size. Is a new all standard crank. No big pressure from the crank vents.

When engine is off oil level is below the scroll seal.
 
Jack

A long shot are you sure the oil gauge is correct? Maybe we have more pressure then we think.

Mark
 
There are 2 holes from the channel back to the oil pan. You can just see them in the lower part of the channel. These need to be open. Is the scroll threaded correctly for the rotation of the engine? Some cranks were set up for reverse rotation and if used in the wrong engine they will pump the oil out of the engine. Not sure which British cars this applies to. Did you check the half moon seal from the main cap to the oil pan. This seal area has been built up with brazing alloy and line bored to reduce leakage.

engine%20rear%20main%20cap.jpg
 
Oil pressure guage is correct. Tested with air twice in fact.

Preaty sure I remember blowing those holes out with air some time ago on assembly. Something I will check again when I do this next.

Just spoke with Hap, he is scratching his head as well. His comment is take it out and run it. Take along a couple of qts of oil and check from time to time, get the rings seated for sure.

Never heard of a backwards scroll seal but supose anything is possible of course.

Love the built up on the scroll seals, that should make em tight for sure.

Going to go take a ride, back later.
 
Jack

Will it leak if idle is higher?

Mark
 
I think I screwed up. I was under the car with paper towles while it was running and saw that the leak was between the rear plate and the oil pan. I actually saw it start and run down.

No leak from the tranny drain hole, that must have been blow back. As I don't see a leak from there yet anyway, I suspect that the engine back plate is sealed tightly.

Miss Agatha is up on stands in the front, and I am going to test and retest off and on for the next hour or so.

Now I think maybe that with the leak from there and not from behind the plate at all it seems at the moment that it is not the scroll seal. Durn new gaskets and RTV in that pan as well. Oh well least I can drop the pan without pulling the engine if that is indeed what it is.

No blow by on block to speek of by the way.
 
Well I do not know Mark. However, I still think Jack has a crank case pressure problem. One way to locate it is to use a leak down test. Another is to install a PCV to invert the crank case pressure. If either of these methods identify the problem it may be that the only simple solution is to install a PCV unit on the engine. We have some big Healey engines that have required this or installation of the after market rear main seals.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Always use jack stands, not even hands under car without em.
 
Maybe will try the pan trick tomorrow. Today is about done for old men.
 
Jack

That's good news if is only the pan gasket those rear cork seal pcs are a pain in the neck.

Mark
 
Faceing forward it looks like it is rear cork gasket on right side.

Only get what looks like one drop or so from the wheep hole in the tranny after shut down.

We will see, expect tomorrow morning I will remove the pan and really goop well before I put it back. Thought I had done so but maybe not, time will tell. At least it will be one more item off of the checklist. Oh yea will check the rear scroll drain holes again while pan is off.
 
Very good

I got to go and change a water pump on the Abarth. Those cork seals need to stick up just a touch.

Mark
 
Pan out, rear drain hole from scroll wide open.

Yep, you can see where the leak was on back right corner, not cork. Will clean all real real good with carb cleaner and put the darn thing back tightly and hopefully this afternoon yet so the RTV had time to cure overnite. Was kind of disapointed in the amount of RTV that I had in there, will be more this time. Inside of the engine is real real clean.

Onward and.......at least the engine did not have to come out this time. Although every time now the leak has gotten smaller, guess I had a tranny leak, scroll seal leak, and a pan leak, gesh.
 
Pan and all back in, very clean. RTV squeezrd out on all sides just a bit. Kind of like jobs that I can lay down on.
Oil in all ready to test.

Will let it set overnite and check it out in the morning.

That was really a very easy job as jobs go. Had never done that before.

SOMETHING I LEARNED: Had to back out the two bolts at the bottom of the timeing chain cover to get the front of the pan to clear. Either use short bolts there or get a 10 inch 7/8th open end wrench.

Ahhh, excuse to get a new tool.
 
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