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Pre-War my hood problem got worse!

sp53

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I posted the problem I have will the hood before, but now I have bolted the fender to the apron and the fender and apron to the tub and lost another 3/16 1/8 of an inch on the gap and the hood rubs bad. I have the room to move the hood over to the passenger side. The only way I can see to do it is open up the holes on the cowling. I had gone with Johns ideas about just leaving it and was probably going to try and turn the hood in on the corner later with a clamp after time, but it rubs too much down the whole length of the hood now. I took the nuts off the studs and poked the hinge studs back up and out to expose the holes for filing, maybe a lazy way but sounded doable; I was even thinking I could notch the stud and slide the hood over that way. Anyways, I am thinking to rat tail file the cowling holes with some tape on the paint and hole so as to maybe not chip it---But again I am looking for smart ideas so the paint does not chip out big, so some one save me please.

Steve
 

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CJD

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I wish I were closer to come look it over. On the bright side, your finish is awesome!

I used a burr in my cheapo die grinder to massage those mounting holes quite a bit. The only limitation is that you don't make them so wide that the hole is too large for the hinge to cover up part of it. As far as the gap, the only solution I see without harming paint is to push in the sides of the bonnet. It's actually pretty flimsy, so with the bonnet open you should be able to gently bump the rear corners in. I am certain that will give you enough clearance for the bonnet to clear the wings...but it is going to change your beautiful fit with the scuttle a bit.
 
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sp53

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Thanks John for the complement you’re a good teacher. I learned a lot while you did your car and helped me with mine. Yeah the other Steve was able to move his hood in with some clamps, and I will probably do some of that because even-- if and when-- I move it over I am running out of room. Right now the hood fits down hard on the beading in the front part of the drive side. The hood will not give much in the front section, but there is about a 1/8 extra along the whole passenger side.

In the pictures, the camera angle makes a big difference on how the extra room is viewed on the passenger side, but again there is room, and again these old British cars with all there bolts everywhere along the front and sides really commits a certain positon for the hood. I was surprised on how much the whole front clip came together after tightening all the pieces.

After reading how you described using a die grinder, I was thinking about a fine stone in the grinder because that should not grab paint like a file, I hope. Or maybe I should sand the paint back in the hole with some 400 paper. Yeah I am over thinking this lunatic fringe thing again. The good news now is, I painted this cowling and I can repaint it myself again if worse comes to worse---maybe.

Thanks Steve
 

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sp53

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Sorry for the post in pre-war “Freudian slip.” I ended up using a grinder with a green stone. It cut right through the paint and metal quickly with no problems the hood slid over. I did put some tape on the hole; everything is close-fitting. I see what you mean now on the shuttle fit John because now the passenger side sticks over a little at the top cowling edge, but overall I am happy with the fit..
 

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M_Pied_Lourd

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That looks really good to me.

Cheers
Tush
 

TR3TR6

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Steve, your car looks really good. I have to ask, did everything fit ok before it was taken apart for painting? When I did my TR3A I removed all the body panels for painting. After it was painted I got a call from the painter; he said the hood or bonnet would not fit. I took the car home with the hood off. What I found was that the body panels on the front of the car have to be assembled in a certain order, otherwise they won't fit. I got it all back together and everything fit like it was suppose to. If you didn't have a good fit when you disassembled it, then it probably had some parts changed out at some point and that's a plan B which is what you had to do. I'm glad it worked out for you. Happy Holidays.
 
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sp53

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Thanks Tush and Terry I purchased this car as a taken apart project without an inner front clip, so yeh I thought about it and fought it a lot. Seems to me after much trial and error, the fenders and apron should be bolted together first evenly and slowly and then bolt those 3 pieces to the tub. I also found bolting the front fender at the top first helps to push the fender forward. I did put the front tub bolts in place with the pads, but I maybe should have left the pad off, but the fenders did come together by using drifts pins in the bolting holes to pry and help slid stuff.

Right-- I believe most body shops do not spend the time. Hopefully they could get the panels looking nice, but choose not to because of the methodology; the alignment of the panels is not extremely difficult just very time consuming and prone to problems with scratching paint, so I tend to think it is the pressure of time, money, and frustration why they do not----But there is a big talent factor also, knock on wood—pride proceeds the fall---- and all that stuff.
 
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