mastercylinder, brake & clutch replacement

[powell]

Im new to this site and working on Healeys, thanks for the help with turnsignal harness. Also I need to replace both master cylinders. They look imposible to get to to remove. Help Thanks Powell

 

[Keoke]

Go back to the turn signal thread---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

I posted a reply on the turn signal thread to this problem

 

[powell]

Keokelefthan or righthand?

 

[powell]

Keoke thanks stubby wrenths Ill get. But it dont sound easy Powell

 

[Keoke]

Nope it isnt easy, its kinda like working a jigsaw puzzle, you just have to find hand positions and tools that fit;Since the Brake MC is the easier one start with it.-Good Luck and if you get stumped come back there are a lot of tricks we can use. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif---Keoke

These are reassembly tricks: With the cylinder in your hand insert a bolt into one of the mounting holes, now put a dab of SUPER Glue on the SHIM and glue it to the cylinder add the other one using this same technique-proceed with the installation. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Similarly. On the clutch cylinder you will not be able to get the top bolt free of the cylinder with the line connected. If you install the bolt first it will impact tightening the line's nut. So after you get it out cut it off about 3/16"with a dremel and it can then be installed with the line attached to the cylinder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

When replacing the cylinders put the clutch cylinder in first. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

 

[anthony7777]

keoke,im very surprised at you!how is this young fella going to win the concours gold if all you do is tell him to cut off a little here a little there? those judges are very sharp,they know every trick in the book,{ask my good friend peter braun} thell just feel it in their bones that 3/16" is missing some place on his car,and when hes done cutting heck have the lightest healy ever!thanks to you!

 

[shorn]

when replacing the master cyl., it is best to bench bleed them before installing. Not required, but it is easier to get all the air out that way.

 

[Keoke]

Anthony7777:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif I new it was coming jest didn't where from. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
But hang on we may do some more cuttin! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Naw; He will be ok,Cuz ifin you tell we gonna have you hosed.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

 

[gonzo]

Welcome to the forum Powell.

Another helpful tip to consider:

Should you intend to rebuild the brake and clutch MCs, I strongly recommend having them brass sleeved. A completely rebuilt and sleeved MC cost about the same as a new unit but will last much longer and be more servicable, since brass does pit and corrode like the original material whatever it may be (aluminum?). This internal modification is also transparent, meaning things look as original from the outside.

The benefits will become apparent the first time you remove and replace these units.

The specialist I used does excellent work and has a quick 2 day turn around (whitepost). They also do slave cylinders, which is my next project. GONZO

 

[Keoke]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif Gonzo, I use them all the time good bunch down there in VA.-Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

 

[anthony7777]

there are three variations of the brake master cylinder,certain cars had one, some had the other as shown in the moss cat.is one better then the other?are they interchangable?and yes i fully agree with "gonzo"on the sleeve job.any one? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

 

[tahoe healey]

???Did I miss something? Gonzo, did you recommend someone that does the brass?

 

[Keoke]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
Yeah TH, you musta missed it! It is "WHITE POST RESTORATIONS" Located in White Post VA. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif---Keoke

 

[Keoke]

HI Anthony, as far as I know{Excluding the 100-4's} The differences in brake master cylinder selection is determined by whether the car had a Servo or it didn't.Some of the cars which offered the servo only as an option have been upgraded and require the use of the compatible cylinder. No they are not just interchangeable---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

Thanks, Keoke and Gonzo. I will file that info for future since every thing is OK for now.

 

[Keoke]

Hi TH ,White Post advertises in most of the Healey Magazines.---Keoke

 

[anthony7777]

my 1963 bj-7 is a none servo type brake set up,any one ever put a servo in a none servo car?hard to do?cant be done?more trouble then its worth?thanks.

 

[GregW]

[ QUOTE ]
more trouble then its worth?

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Anthony,
What’s your threshold for pain? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I haven’t done a conversion, my car had the booster which I replaced recently. The best price I found was at Tom's Import Toys at $349 for the Australian PBR unit . Tom is a great guy to deal with. It looks to me that you would need to scrap your 5-way pipe fitting for a 4-way and a 3-way. Two new pipes for the servo loop, and of course, as Keoke pointed out a different master cylinder. Looks like a $700 investment (excluding labor)

 

[Keoke]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
Plus Greg, getting a set of mounting brackets if the PBR unit does not include them.---Keoke

 

[GregW]

Thanks for reminding me Keoke. The PBR unit does come with brackets. When I installed them, the bleed screw on the servo was about 15 degrees from vertical. That probably was OK, but I went and made some new brackets anyway. And no, the car wasn't on a slope! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif