location of trans oil fill port?

[nevets]

Recently I posted a question about how to access the transmission oil fill port on my BN6...the problem being that the carpet cannot be simply lifted to gain access. I received a suggestion that a workable solution would be to cut a flap in the carpet over the fill port. The problem I have is that I cannot with 100% certainty locate the exact location (and size) of the fill port by feeling the carpet. This is the sort of thing you only get one chance to get right. Sooo, I was wondering if anybody out there is Healeyland would be kind enough to supply some dimensional guidance (pictures also appreciated) to assist me in this delicate surgical procedure. (Attached picture gives a general idea of what I need). Many thanks.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Nevets, Not a BN6 man but I think the area you are looking for is higher up on the trany tunnel,closer to the top, and you should be able to feel the rubber plug's location through the carpet.---Fwiw-Keoke

 

[nevets]

Thanks Keoke...yes I know it is higher. I felt around, but it's not so easy to define. Since I would like to cut as small a flap as possible, my fear is cutting the carpet and discovering it should have been in a slightly different location. As you can tell, I am experiencing a lot of anxiety over this.

 

[John Loftus]

How about removing the trans tunnel, remove the rubber plug, lay the carpet back on top using the gear shift opening and snaps to line everything up, then use a sharpie or grease pencil to mark the back side of the carpet?

Cheers,
John

 

[Keoke]

HI John, I think lacking any evidence of snaps that Nevets carpet is glued to the tunnel. If it isn't then all he needs to do is lift the right hand edge and he will have access to the plug/dipstick and he will not need to cut the carpet. This routine is a nuisance but better than cutting the carpet in that model car.--Fwiw--Keoke

 

[nevets]

I wish there was a less invasive means of entry, but yes, the carpet does appear to be glued down.

 

[Keoke]

OK Nevets, we do not want to goof this up. I think you should remove the tunnel,remove the rubber plug and the area to be cut wil be revealed.However, before you do the actual cutting give some thought to a good closure method that you can live with. It might be necessary to have an upholstery shop make you a neat cover using matching carpet material that is attached with hidden Velcro strips. These are just suggestions to consider.---Keoke

I was just thinking[thats dangerous] /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif what i might do. Consider this as an option.When you remove the plug and cut the carpet to the hole outline take the plug and drill a hole directly in its center,cut the rib on the top away~~ 3/8" on each side of the drilled hole. Add a large SS washer to the bottom side followed by a # 10 X 32 SS screw, add
a smaller washer to the top side with a nut secured with a jamb nut.Now make a metal cover, with the same shape as the tunnel hole only a little larger, that wil be retained by the screw, have it chrome plated and find a real neat little knob to hold it in place. You remove chrome cover before pulling the plug. Alternatively, you might install a SS blind nut in the plug hole and a simple screw from the top of the plate.A spacer of proper length should be made to prevent pulling the plug out of its hole when the screw is tightened. Like I said I wasuh just thinking- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif-AZ- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif

 

[BlueRidge1]

Nevets, I have the transmission cover off my bn7 and it looks like yours would be the same to me. It has the metal trans cover with the side shift as your bn6 has. Measuring from dead center of the ash tray straight forward 16" then 3" to the right. that is aprox, center of plug.Bob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
And your interior looks great!

 

[BlueRidge1]

Nevets, Since your car has the metal cover on the transmmision and the plug is rubber, try a big magnet in the spot refered. Bob

 

[Dave Russell]

It wouldn't be hard to make it as original. Even if the carpet is glued, it can be carefully worked loose with a putty knife.

The trim that goes around the flange, the part with the shiny screw in it in your pic, is glued to the metal.

The carpet & it's pad are loosely laid over the tunnel.

There are two snaps on each side, about 1" up from the floor & 1" in from front & rear tunnel ends that secure the carpet & pad. Snaps are in the carpet, clearance holes in the pad.

The carpet butts up to the red trimmed flange, & the sides slip under the floor carpets which are held with snaps in a similar manner. Two on each side at the rear for the floor carpets.

The snaps are secured with a nearly invisible metal ring that buries in the carpet pile. Moss #228-128 for reference. Two snaps on each side of the tunnel plus the ashtray, & shifter boot, hold the tunnel carpet. To access the rubber filler plug, undo the front lower snap & fold the carpet back.

On my car, I attached thick heat insulation to the tunnel & just snapped the carpet in place over it. See the attached pic. You can see the front snap on the tunnel & on the carpet.

Also much nicer to be able to unsnap the carpets & completely remove, if removing the tunnel. Why screw around cutting holes in the carpet.
D

 

[Editor_Reid]

You know, as often as you need to check the gearbox oil level -- i.e., not very often -- you could remove the transmission tunnel, check it, and replace the transmission tunnel cover. Make it an annual ritual, and you won't need to cut a flap in your carpet.

(Thinking outside the box has got me nothing but grief, so go ahead and pile on now!)

 

[nevets]

Thank you all for the thoughtful suggestions and detailed information. I was unaware that it is possible to remove the transmission tunnel with the carpet in place. I am assuming that the tunnel fasteners are accessible from under the car? I will check the shop manual/parts manual and look into this option. I would much prefer to avoid violating the pristine carpet. Plus with the tunnel out of the way, I won't need to be so concerned about spillage when filling.

 

[Keoke]

Sounds good Nevets,but after you pull that dirty tunnel once you will prefer an access point.The attaching fasteners are located on top prolly hidden under the edge of the carpet.---Keoke

 

[nevets]

Keoke - The surgical solution scares me. I'm also going to explore the possibility of peeling up the carpet. I may also call the restorer and seek his advice. In any case, I feel much better informed now than I did yesterday. Thanks.

 

[Keoke]

Yeah,Nevets I would hate cutting into that pretty carpet too.But a simpler method of access is desireable. Talking to the restorer may be the most benificial approach. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke

 

[nevets]

PS - I talked to the restorer and he informed me that the carpet is not glued down and that I need to release the snaps from the transmission tunnel, then peel the carpet back. He advised me to use a tool (screwdriver) to aid in this, and not pull on the carpet, which might cause damage. I will look into this...

 

[Keoke]

GREAT!! That is good to hear Nevets.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

 

[DerekJ]

Nevets
I'm glad you spoke to the restorer because when I saw your interior I was sure the carpet would not be glued down.


Its obvious that an excellant job has been done on fitting the interior. I fitted my own tunnel carpet and it took a lot of effort to get it looking that tight, but I managed it using the snaps provided with the kit.

Each time I check my oil, I have to undo the front snaps and peel back the carpet. Thats they way it was always done, sp please don't cut any holes in it.

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
Nevets
I'm glad you spoke to the restorer because when I saw your interior I was sure the carpet would not be glued down.



[/ QUOTE ]

Hi DerekJ, I weren't that far away so I could't tell for sure.---Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif