Hydraulics -- Rebuild or Buy New?

[Hatman]

One of my winter projects is to completely go through the brake and clutch systems on my 1959 TR3. My question is this: should I have my original parts rebuilt by a firm like Apple Hyrdraulics (suggestions of other firms welcome) or simply buy new parts from the Big Three? My original thought was to have them rebuilt, but looking at prices, it appears I can buy new parts for the same money.

Thoughts?


Mark

 

[Guest]

.

 

[TR3driver]

IMO, you should start by disassembling them yourself. If the bores are OK, you can install new seals yourself for almost nothing. These are very simple units (much simpler than the dual master on the TR6). The calipers can almost certainly be rebuilt (since for those, the bores don't matter), the other components are more iffy.

If the clutch & rear brake slave bores are bad, just replace them. But if the MCs are bad, keep in mind that new ones look different than the originals and make your own decision. The resleeved units from Apple will likely last longer than originals (although that's usually not an issue since it's neglect that ruins them in the first place).

 

[RobT]

IMHO if the components are original Girling, re-build them. The quality of the replacements is not nearly as good as the originals, and my experience with Apple has been excellent. (The only exception I would make is the rear brake slaves, and perhaps the clutch slaves - these are so much cheaper than rebuilds, but others may disagree).

 

[Guest]

When you get them rebuilt you should have them sleeved. IMHO, this is a better setup than new. I sent my new clutch master and slave off to Apple and had them sleeved. From TRF they lasted about 5k miles before they leaked. Sleeving old or new is better than better than new.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Sleeving old or new is better than better than new.[/QUOTE]

That's exactly why I'm keeping all of my take-off parts.

 

[PeterK]

Since you mentioned this is for a TR3, the new replacement master cylnders for brake and clutch on new units is at a different angle than the originals. They come with an adapter but still not 100% original copy.

I've found with all parts that if they can be rebuilt, they will generally be a better part than new in the long run. Not all cases but most. A lot of the repro stuff is just not the same quality or materials. Close but no cigar (as Clinton would say!)

Apple did my shocks but I had a master sleeved and rebuilt by https://www.whitepost.com/brake.html who as also very good.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

I'll second Randall and Peter, the TR3 components are easy to rebuild (later model LBC brake parts seem to be harder for the home garage to rebuild). The newer replacement master cylinders are different and replacing them will require an adjustment to the outlet piping. It is minor, but the pipes will need to be bent to fit. The rebuild kits are inexpensive and changing out the seals is straight forward. An inexpensive brake hone and an electric drill will clean up minor pitting in the bores of the master or wheel cylinders.

Replacing all of the flexible hydraulic lines should also be a consideration, particularly if you don't know how old they are. They tend to breakdown internally.

If the front disc brake pistons are pitted, replacing them with new one should also be done. IMHO you should consider upgrading to stainless steel pistons.

In the case of sever pitting in cylinder bores, the sleeve insert is an option to maintain original appearance. Apple Hydraulics, White Post Restorations and Karp's Brake Service are companies that provide the service. I would recommend discussing prices and what you want with each of them first before sending your parts out. In some case you get your parts return, in others you get finished piece in inventory and your go on the line for sleeve inserts. Most offer brass sleeves but some also offer stainless steel.

 

[TR3driver]

Replacing all of the flexible hydraulic lines should also be a consideration, particularly if you don't know how old they are. They tend to breakdown internally.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif Although I try to resist the tendency towards shipwright's disease; replacing the hard lines might not be a bad idea either. I've already wrecked one TR3A (almost 30 years ago) due to a hard line rotting through from the inside. And the other day I was rooting through my box of brake spares, and was totally amazed when a moderate tug on an original brake line broke it in two ! This was one of the jumpers from the reservoir to the MC, so it wouldn't see pressure in service ... but it showed no signs of any damage or corrosion, and just snapped off in my hand.

Anyone know who has the best price on some Cunifer lines for a TR3 with Girling brakes ?

 

[DNK]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gifGoing to buy SS lines to replace the whole set up on the 6

 

[Brosky]

That's what I just did. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

 

[Hatman]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I was leaning towards having my originals rebuilt, since I like to stick to repairing/rebuilding the original parts whenever possible, but it's good to hear it from the group. And I am planning on replacing everything in both systems. I'm pretty sure everything is original -- it's at least 20 years old, as I've owned the car for that long -- so it seems like a top to bottom overhaul of these important systems is overdue.

Mark

 

[Brosky]

By the way Hatman, welcome to the Forum!