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cyl head torque specs

Spridget64SC

Jedi Trainee
Offline
This is what I like to use:
Stock Studs with drill point - 45#-ft. w/oil
Special Tuning with 'Y' on short studs - 50#-ft. w/oil
ARP - 50#-ft. w/oil

25#-ft. on all 4 5/16" rocker pedestal studs.

Make sure all the stud and the threads are good and clean. Same inside the nut. Replace any suspect nuts and washers. Make sure you have a washer on top of the rockershaft retainer nut tab on #2 pedestal. Make sure studs are lightly tightened into block.

I throw away the 948/1098 stuff. Or, cut them down for location pegs for replacing the upper slave cylinder bolt. I only use the one bolt on the slave cylinder.

HTH,
Mike Miller
 

Spridget64SC

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Your welcome! I did a little double checking last nite with the shop manual. Turns out if you torque the head studs dry (since the manual didn't clarify), with "22" on the top end or the drill point on the top end, then torque to a value of 50#-ft. That is why I said 45 with oil. I do all studs with oil and the lubricant changes the torque values to achieve the required stretch in the stud.

Have a great day,
Mike
 

Sarastro

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
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I hope you're aware that they should be torqued in a certain order, and that you should bring them up to the specified torque gradually. The Bugeye manual says one turn at a time.

Sorry if I'm insulting your intelligence, but a lot of people don't know this, and apparently you don't have a manual to show you the process. The figure below is from the Bugeye manual, but it should be the same for all A series engines.
 

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