Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
gregsdrums
Senior Member
Offline
Just had a valve job done on a 1275 cylinder head and would like to know what torque spec. every one is using. Thanks.
-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
cyl head torque specs
- Thread starter gregsdrums
- Start date
Share this page
Spridget64SC
Jedi Trainee
Offline
This is what I like to use:
Stock Studs with drill point - 45#-ft. w/oil
Special Tuning with 'Y' on short studs - 50#-ft. w/oil
ARP - 50#-ft. w/oil
25#-ft. on all 4 5/16" rocker pedestal studs.
Make sure all the stud and the threads are good and clean. Same inside the nut. Replace any suspect nuts and washers. Make sure you have a washer on top of the rockershaft retainer nut tab on #2 pedestal. Make sure studs are lightly tightened into block.
I throw away the 948/1098 stuff. Or, cut them down for location pegs for replacing the upper slave cylinder bolt. I only use the one bolt on the slave cylinder.
HTH,
Mike Miller
Stock Studs with drill point - 45#-ft. w/oil
Special Tuning with 'Y' on short studs - 50#-ft. w/oil
ARP - 50#-ft. w/oil
25#-ft. on all 4 5/16" rocker pedestal studs.
Make sure all the stud and the threads are good and clean. Same inside the nut. Replace any suspect nuts and washers. Make sure you have a washer on top of the rockershaft retainer nut tab on #2 pedestal. Make sure studs are lightly tightened into block.
I throw away the 948/1098 stuff. Or, cut them down for location pegs for replacing the upper slave cylinder bolt. I only use the one bolt on the slave cylinder.
HTH,
Mike Miller
OP
gregsdrums
Senior Member
Offline
Thanks Mike, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Greatly appreciated.
Spridget64SC
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Your welcome! I did a little double checking last nite with the shop manual. Turns out if you torque the head studs dry (since the manual didn't clarify), with "22" on the top end or the drill point on the top end, then torque to a value of 50#-ft. That is why I said 45 with oil. I do all studs with oil and the lubricant changes the torque values to achieve the required stretch in the stud.
Have a great day,
Mike
Have a great day,
Mike
Offline
I hope you're aware that they should be torqued in a certain order, and that you should bring them up to the specified torque gradually. The Bugeye manual says one turn at a time.
Sorry if I'm insulting your intelligence, but a lot of people don't know this, and apparently you don't have a manual to show you the process. The figure below is from the Bugeye manual, but it should be the same for all A series engines.
Sorry if I'm insulting your intelligence, but a lot of people don't know this, and apparently you don't have a manual to show you the process. The figure below is from the Bugeye manual, but it should be the same for all A series engines.
