Hi,
Randy is right about the torque.
Initially leave all of the major pivot points of the suspension relatively loose (not much more than finger tight), remount the tires and wheels and take the car off the jack. Then with the steering set straight ahead bounce the suspension a few times. (Note: You might need to stack some wood under the tires to raise the car a bit so you can get under there and work. I like to use some scraps of 2x8 for this.)
This is done to "settle" the suspension in the middle of it's range, and not bind it up by overtightening it when the suspension is at full droop.
At the top/inner fulcrum just tighten by feel to around 26-40 ft. lbs. because it's pretty much impossible to get a torque wrench in there. I don't think the exact torque is super critical here, notice the wide range of specification. (However, if you *really* want to be exact and don't mind some additional fuss, you could torque the inner ends of the upper a-arms onto the fulcrum before installing it atop the spring tower. The bolts holding the upper fulcrum to the spring tower are torqued to 26-28 ft lbs.) Personally I prefer to use castle nuts and cotter pins on all these suspension pivot points, instead of the Nylocks that are often supplied with replacement parts. This might mean drilling afor the cotter key, since modern parts often aren't drilled either. Castle nuts just seem more secure to me, and also are generally easeir to accurately torque.
The two (per side) ball joint fastening bolts don't appear to be spec'd for torque in my Bentley TR4/4A manual, but these are 3/8" NF and all the others the same size scattered around the front suspension are specified at 26-28 ft. lbs. So, that's probably correct here too. Do use *new* Nylock nuts on these (and all other fastenings around the front suspension, i.e. never reuse Nylocks).
Note that the outermost of the ball joint mounting bolts is fitted with the nut toward the rear of the car, while the innermost bolt is fitted with the nut toward the front. (Not sure this really matters, maybe someone else knows. Maybe it's to accomodate a clearance issue with the steering at full stop. )
The large nut attaching the ball joint to the vertical link gets torqued to 55-65 ft lbs. For added security, here is another place I prefer to use a castle nut with a cotter pin, and drilling might be needed when installing a new ball joint.
The lower/inner a-arm fastening is 26-28 ft lbs for the large nut (again, castle nut with cotter pin preferred) and the smaller 5/16" NF bolts and Nylock nuts there are 16-18 ft. lb. (TR4 & earlier only). TR4A and later have large bolts fitted through brackets here (and don't have those 5/16" bolts), that serve as fulcrum points which can be adjusted with shims. Per Bentley, the torque specifications for the big TR4A fulcrum bolts appears to be the same as earlier cars with the fixed (non-adjustable) inner/lower fulcrum pin.
I can't find a torque specification for the stud holding the TR4A style inner/lower control arm bracket to the frame mounting point. Perhaps someone else has it. (Note: This is the bracket that is best upgraded by adding a second mounting stud, as was done by the factory on the later TR6. It is also a good idea to weld on gussets to reinforce the corresponding brackets that sit atop the frame rail.)
The lower/outer horizontal pin through the trunnion is probably the trickiest place to tighten properly, the pivot point that's most prone to being overtightened. Per the manual it should be torqued to about 5 ft. lbs., then backed off the castle nut by 1 to 2 slots, for about .004" to .012" of end play or float. (I have seen Nylocks substituted here, too, and definitely won't use them.)
Now, on TR4 and earlier, the outermost washer at the horizontal trunnion pin is specially designed to be forced over splines, which help prevent it from turning and loosening the nut. Whenever a new washer is used, it will often require a whole lot more than 5 ft. lbs of torque to initially drive it onto the splines. Do this, then back off and re-torque to around 5 ft. lbs.
Can't measure 5 ft. lbs. with your torque wrench (or with Nylock nuts for that matter, if using them)? Try to estimate it just by tightening until there is no end float, then back off as described to allow for that small amount of play. TR4A and later have a large bolt instead of the horizontal pin through the trunnion here, which means only torquing once, rather than both front and back on each side. But, the amount of torque and play (or end float) both appear to be the same, according to the Bentley manual.
Like Randy suggested, it's a good idea to drive the car a bit and then go back and check all the above. It doesn't hurt to go over and check all these nuts and bolts every year or two afterward, also.
Before worrying about the steering wheel, first centralize your rack & pinion. This is done by temporarily attaching steering columns and steering wheel, then turning the steering wheel all the way from stop to stop and counting the number of turns (the total number of turns differs somewhat depending upon model and R&P unit used). Divide by two and turn the steering wheel to that point. This has "centralized the R&P".
Next, without disturbing the R&P, adjust the steering end links so that the tires are set pretty close to straight ahead (toe = 0 to 1/16" toe-in). For now, using some 2x4s and a tape measure is accurate enough.
Next, as Randy mentioned, you might need to change the postion of the upper steering column so that the turn signals cancel properly. Check that the relationship of the steering wheel itself is correct to position the cancelling lugs at about 9 o'clock on the upper column. If not, it is necessary to remount the steering wheel to the upper steering column to reposition the cancelling lugs.
Still being careful not to disturb the R&P, use the various splined joints in the upper and lower steering columns to align the steering wheel as close as possible to straight ahead. Depending upon the model (TR4, 4A, 250, 6) there are two, three or four of these splined joints in the steering column assembly. But I believe each are all a prett standard 36-spline x 3/4". That would mean each spline shift would be a change of 10 degrees at the steering wheel. It's probably not possible to get the steering wheel exactly straight doing this, just try to get pretty close.
Next, the steering end links can be equally adjusted to fine tune the position of the steering wheel to be perfectly straight when the car is rolling in a straight line on a level surface. This is done by adjusting both end links an equal amount, but by shortening one while lengthening the other - so that the toe remains the same and only the steering is shifted slightly one way or the other.
In order to keep the R&P as centralized as possible, if more than 10-15 degrees change is necessary (at the steering wheel), try shifting the splined joints in the steering columns instead, then coming back to fine tune with the steering end link adjustment.
Finally the toe will need to be checked again, this time preferably by an alignment shop that can do so most accurately.
By the way, if you take the car to an alignment shop, they should take car of accurately setting the toe and will usually do fine tune centering of the steering wheel at the same time (via the steering end link adjustment described above).
Hope this all makes sense and helps!
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