• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

BJ7 - Removing Door and Window Cranks

Jersey

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
What is the trick to removing the door and window cranks. I am changing the door panels and I be darned if I can see any fitting or pins to remove to get this off.

Do they simply pull off...I don't want to apply any elbow grease unless that is indeed the basic approach.

Please advise.

Thanks
 

John_Progess

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Jersey,
There is a spring on the crank shaft between the internal rool up mechanism and the door panel. Push the door panel back against the spring pressure toward the internal mechanism and you will see a small pin that you push out and the handle will come off. The shaft has a square cross section. The pin is a loose fit and should come out easily. Hope this helps and have a good day!

John
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Hello Jersey,

There is a small pin, looks like a nail, that slides thought the shaft of both the door and window cranks.

Push the plastic collar around the door crank in to locate it. It's not easy, to find or push out. Ask me how I know.

Good luck,
Roger

John, dude, you're a fast typest :hammer:
As Maxwell Smart would say, beat me by that much.
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
:savewave:

HI Jersey, thre are Collars {Escushions} behind the door handle and window crank whih must be pushed back to reveal pins that secure these items to their shafts. Using a suitable punch these pins can be pushed out freeing the handle and crank. Do not pull on them as you suggested.--Keoke
 
OP
J

Jersey

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
This isn't going to well...I have pushed back the plastic sleeve and see nothing that looks like a pin...even if I found it I have to keep pressure on the plastic collar to locate the pin and drive it out.

I guess I will have a scotch and try this in the morning. The window crank at least has some give...the door handle barely moves enough off the panel to even see behind it...I may have cut off the panel to get at this unless you gentlemen have a few tricks up your sleeves.

Thanks for trying.
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
They be a bugger sometimes Jersey :laugh:. You may have to use a spacer of some sort to hold the collars back. additionally you may have to rotate the crank so you can see the pin. If the pin is in a horizontal position you will not see it and it requires a vertical position anyway to remove it. Just be patient and you will get them off.----Keoke
 
OP
J

Jersey

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
It must have been I hit the scotch a little early...in the clear light of day I got them off in about 5 minutes. Thanks for the help.
 
Country flag
Offline
Wait til you try to put them back in!!!!!
 
Country flag
Offline
I don't remember, are they split pins or solid? But they are hard to put back. Be sure you use the correct holes on the shaft. There are two sets 90 degrees off from eachother.
 
OP
J

Jersey

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
The pins are solid. The window crank has only on set of holes and the door handle has 2. I did not notice which ones I ejected the original pin from... I expect I will be able to tell when I reorient the handle.

Thanks
 
Country flag
Offline
One one of mine I ended up taking a nail, bending it, filing it almost in half, and inserting that instead of the original pin.
 

davidb

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
If you're replacing the door panels (as I did) the pins are even harder to put back in because the panel backing is still so stiff, and you have to push like heck to find the hole. You can also use a small piece of coat hangar instead of the pins if you happen to lose one. Just cut it to size and use a pair of long nose pliers to fit it into the hole. I also used a cotter pin which worked well and gave me a better tang to hold onto with my pliers. It took me about an hour on one side and 5 minutes on the other. Go figure. Bring beer.
 
Country flag
Offline
Mine was the same way, I had replaced the door panels, couple of hours for the drivers side, passenger's side slid right in.
 

GregW

Yoda
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
An alternative to the coat hanger (I only have plastic and wood ones) could be a spring pin.
249158_300.jpg
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Offline
Hello Jersey,

The pin is nothing special. Just find a nail that's the right size for the hole. Not too tight, not too loose. I know, duh.

The toughest part of removing or replacing the pin is getting the panel pressed in enough to have access to the shaft. Another pair of hands helps out. They press the panel in, while you strategically with finesse of a surgeon and the mouth of a sailor, remove the pin. For pin removal, try using a coat hanger wire. You bend it to the angle you need. If the panel is pushed in enough, and no load on the shaft/pin, then the pin should push out easy. If not, use a small bent needle nose pliers to pull it out the rest of the way.

Here's two ways I've found that seem to work to replace the pins.

1. File a V in the nail where you want it to break off to the length you want.
Push the nail in, then snap it off at the V.

2. Use a nail with a flat head. File the head diameter down just enough so it will not push through the hole. (Don't use a finishing nail, for the head adds length, where the flat head doesn't.) Once nail has been cut to the right length, use the small bent needle nose pliers to hold the pin for insertion. The advantage of having a head is it will stop it from sliding through the shaft and dropping out.

Sounds good on paper, huh?!
I've removed the door panels more times than I'd like to admit. With practice, it's gets faster and easier.
Although I still do give the door panels the Deer In The Headlights Look, when I realize I need to remove it.

Cheers and good luck.
Roger
 

healeynut

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
GregW said:
An alternative to the coat hanger (I only have plastic and wood ones) could be a spring pin.
249158_300.jpg

Yes, I use these springpins, and they work excellent
 

Johnny

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
:cheers: The pins are tapered. So they'll be easy to remove the correct way and difficult ta other. Replacements can be purchased at ACE hardware. Also available are roll pins that aaren't tapered.

While were on the subject, does the door handle really stick up as they show in some photos I've seen?
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
tahoe healey said:
Those are the "split pins" I was thinking of.

:savewave:
Nope TH, those are generally called :Roll Pins", which utilize a friction fit in the hole. A split pin is Brit for our cotter pin. ---Keoke
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
J Removing Healy wood instrument panel BJ7 Austin Healey 3
5 WTB: BJ7 Squab Austin Healey 13
5 BJ7 Boot Rust-Through Austin Healey 13
B For Sale Too many Healeys - BN2, BN4, BT6, BJ7 For Sale Austin Healey Classifieds 0
Walter74 BJ7 Throttle Linkage "Support Panel" Austin Healey 5
T BJ7 Trim Recession (Convertible Top) Austin Healey 2
ModifiedBJ7 BJ7 Windshield Surround Rubber Seal Austin Healey 2
R New Hood for BJ7 Austin Healey 3
chicken BJ7 Chrome Trim Austin Healey 15
JMACENGINESHOP BJ7 Engine Rebuilding Austin Healey 23
R BJ7 Rear Axle Maintenance Austin Healey 5
B Wanted Grill Top Cowl and Surround - BJ7 Austin Healey Classifieds 1
B BJ7/BJ8 Door Check Straps Austin Healey 10
R Changing BJ7 Differential Ratio Austin Healey 10
X Trouble shooting trafficator - 1963 BJ7 Jaguar 9
T BJ7 Hard to find First Gear when G/Box is hot Austin Healey 3
B BJ7 Rear View Mirror Mounting Hardware Austin Healey 7
chicken BJ7 Door Fit Austin Healey 27
T Wanted BJ7 parts needed Austin Healey Classifieds 0
T Weight of BJ7 Transmission/Overdrive Austin Healey 10
D BJ7 Clutch Austin Healey 6
R BJ7 Back Seat-Rest Austin Healey 1
HealeyRick BJ7/8 Convertible Top Issues Austin Healey 5
HealeyRick BJ7 Side Window Alignment Austin Healey 31
B BJ7 Interior Finishing Details Austin Healey 2
chicken Healey BJ7 door (i think) Austin Healey Classifieds 0
chicken BJ7 Rear Number Plate Mounting Austin Healey 3
chicken BJ7 Door Seal Austin Healey 5
chicken BJ7 Rear Quarter Panels Austin Healey 6
B BJ7 Boot Trim Austin Healey 7
T Early BJ7 Vent Window Seal Austin Healey 2
D BJ7 Underdash Trim Austin Healey 9
G Steering Arm Installation Recommendations - BJ7 Austin Healey 2
D BJ7 Rear rail trim Austin Healey 0
D BJ7 Hood frame mounting plate Austin Healey 7
D Wanted BJ7/8 front grill top cowl Austin Healey Classifieds 4
BLong63AH BJ7 Hard Fuel Lines Austin Healey 20
T Spin-On Oil Filter Removal [BJ7] Austin Healey 12
T Installing Garmin GPS in a BJ7 Austin Healey 19
pbraun How much does a BJ7 or 8 transmission weigh? Austin Healey 3
P BJ7 Upholstery Austin Healey 1
B BJ7 back end rebuild Austin Healey 1
Marvin Gruber BJ7 door panels Austin Healey 4
Marvin Gruber BJ7 Top Installation Austin Healey 1
B Rear shroud connection to the floor pan on a BJ7 Austin Healey 21
P BJ7 HS6 Carb Baseline Setting Austin Healey 10
Marvin Gruber BJ7 tach cable location. Austin Healey 3
T Toyota 6 cylinder eng & trans in a BJ7 Austin Healey 0
BJ8Healeys BJ7/BJ8 Exhaust Systems Austin Healey 24
W For Sale Hardtop for BJ7/BJ8 on BaT : No Reserve Austin Healey Classifieds 2

Similar threads

Top