Auxillary lights

[tahoe healey]

I have replaced the clear bulbs in my "flame throwers" with yellow ones as fog lights. I would like to reduce the amount of light omitted. The old fashioned rheostat would probably do it but they create heat (right?)and put a load on the wiring (right?). Any suggestions on how I can safely do this?
Thanks,
TH

 

[AUSMHLY]

TH, I'm sure others will chime in about how to reduce the amount of light, as for the safety aspect, how about installing a relay in line.
Cheers,
Roger

 

[tahoe healey]

There are relays already. Relays actually made things brighter and constant as I am still running with a generator.

 

[RAC68]

Hi TH,

All the solutions that reduce power will crenate heat. The way to know reduce emitted light from your flame throwers is to reduce supplied voltage or secure a bulb of lower wattage. Adding resistance in the form of a rheostat or resistor will generate heat from the reduced power. I would expect you will only meet your objective by finding a lower wattage bulb

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[tahoe healey]

Thanks, Ray. That's what I am thinking. I think I'll just blind on coming traffic (or aim the beams down). Better than a fire.

 

[John Turney]

Can you change the lens from driving light pattern to fog light pattern and spread that light out more?

 

[Cottontop]

The absolute easiest way to lower the intensity is to rewire them so that they are in series rather than parallel. That way each light bulb will act as a dropping resistor for the other and each light bulb will only get 6 VDC rather than the full 12 VDC.

That will reduce each bulb's brightness by 50%.

If you don't want to do that, there are a wide variety of solid state voltage controllers (such as zener diodes) that will do the job. Google for them.

Tim

 

[Keoke]

Can you change the lens from driving light pattern to fog light pattern and spread that light out more?

Yes both type lenses are available for the lamps. Fwiw--Keoke

 

[Keoke]

The downside of connecting the lights in series is if one fails they both go out---Keoke

 

[Cottontop]

The downside of connecting the lights in series is if one fails they both go out---Keoke

True, but according to TH, they are "auxillary lights" not primary lights and yellow fog bulbs on top of that.

Even with the "Valley Fog" at Lake Tahoe, they will likely get little use and if they DO fail, the primary lights (low beams) can still be used.

Tim

 

[Keoke]

Well I do not know why one would need to dim auxiliary lights they should be only used to get home if the primary ones failed. On the other hand.
, coming out OT Tahoe at 1 Am down I-80 I needed all four of mine due to the pitch blackness on the road.--Keoke--

 

[tahoe healey]

Try Hwy 50 (two lane)at night along the winding American River at 55 to 60 mph. We have no street lights and little light pollution which lights the sky. Throw in bear, deer, raccoon, porcupine, and drunks and you see why I added the extra lights.
Thanks, everyone, for all the help. I may try to connect the two lights as it is the easiest solution (read that as cheapest). Or maybe I'll do nothing.

 

[Cottontop]

How about this solution = the Best of Both Worlds.

Replace the existing "Lights-On" - "Lights Off" switch with a DPDT, Center-Off, switch that will, in one postion wire the lights in PARALLEL for full brilliance from each one, then in the other position will wire the lights in SERIES for half brilliance from each one?

Pretty easy to do and if you don't have or can't find a switch, I've probably got one (a toggle) that I'll never use and I'll send it to you and if you need assistance, I can walk you through the wiring.

Tim

 

[elrey]

Brilliant brilliance! --elrey

 

[tahoe healey]

I'm using the 3 position switch to turn them on. I replaced the panel switch with the three position same as the light/parking light switch. Top is off, center is panel lights and the bottom position is flame thrower with panel lightsI do; like your suggestion.

 

[Keoke]

OOPS!!! you are right it was I-50 :laugh: