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General MG New Project

SUCCESS! Today we repositioned the engine and transmission, and now everything lines up just fine. Driveshaft fits perfectly; sliding yoke is about 1/2" - 3/4" extended as the car sits level, which will allow for proper fore and aft movement. The engine still sits completely behind the front crossmember, so that checks out as well. We have two more holes to drill through the chassis side rails for the transmission crossmember, then we can tighten it all up and then mount the body tub permanently.

Waiting for the painter to finish the fenders, running boards, hood, side panels, and front and rear splash panels. Then I can get all those installed and it'll start looking like a car!
 
Too much left to do. I made it a point not to set a timetable on this one. It'll get done when it's done!

That said, I can't wait!
 
The driveshaft situation has me puzzled. I didn't run into that with either of my two Victors. Both of them had the longer water pumps, and still had fan/radiator clearance. Sounds like you have gotten the situation solved.
Once you get the body and fenders mounted, you will find that the real work starts, with wiring, hydraulics etc. fitting the interior is fun too. Are you using MGB seats, TF seats, or something else? One of mine ( a kit car)used MGB seats, the other had the TF seat copies that came in the car(factory finished car).
Sounds like you are enjoying the car, keep us posted on progress.
Cheers.
Bruce Clifford
 
The driveshaft situation has me puzzled. I didn't run into that with either of my two Victors. Both of them had the longer water pumps, and still had fan/radiator clearance. Sounds like you have gotten the situation solved.
Once you get the body and fenders mounted, you will find that the real work starts, with wiring, hydraulics etc. fitting the interior is fun too. Are you using MGB seats, TF seats, or something else? One of mine ( a kit car)used MGB seats, the other had the TF seat copies that came in the car(factory finished car).
Sounds like you are enjoying the car, keep us posted on progress.
Cheers.
Bruce Clifford

Yeah, it was definitely a puzzlement, but there was no way it was going to fit using the engine mount location. Not sure if maybe the "towers" for the engine mounts were in the wrong place or what. But we have it licked now.

Wiring is pretty much laid out; just have to install it all. No doubt I'll have a few changes/modifications as it progresses, but I'm looking forward to working on it. And I already ran the hydraulics and fuel line on the frame; all that's left is connecting the dots.

The seats are the TF copies. I had already located their mounting points before sending the tub off for paint, so am that far ahead of the game.

Took today off; back to it tomorrow.
 
Still at it! Trying to tie up a few loose ends - wiring is run along the frame rail front to rear. Went to install the dash and found that I'd positioned the warning lights and gauges a bit too close to the mounting flange on the tub. So, I had to trim some of that back and have it pretty close. Still have to do a bit more trimming and then can get the dash set so I can connect the wiring.

I'd hoped to get it to where it can be started and do the cam break-in sometime next week. Then bring it back home and get cracking here in my garage. But too many delays, so I'm not sure. Making progress, but sure is slow!

On the plus side, got the fenders back a couple days ago. GORGEOUS! Paint guy is working on the doors, then hood, side panels, and front and rear aprons. Another week or so, perhaps.

Will try to get some pictures today and post later.
 
Gorgeous is good! But hearing the engine will be better. You are a patient man indeed. Must be the chicory in your coffee.

I remember when I first got my 53 MG, wondering what the small container of brake fluid was, parked up right next to the battery. Had a clear plastic hose running down the firewall and disappearing into the frame. Several experienced MG owners said this was typical, keeping the brake system fully topped up, and not having to dig down under the floor board to check/fill the master cylinder.

It wasn't until I'd done some work to return the car to original condition, that I discovered the fluid was actually hydraulic fluid, and the tube that disappeared down under the frame, was feeding the four dampers. Don't ask how I found out ...

Looking forward to your photos.
Tom M.
 
Couple of pictures from this afternoon:

0316181426.jpg


0316181427.jpg


0316181455.jpg
 
Now you are *talking*! That bundle of wires would completely overwhelm me.

(What's the red color on the underside of the frame?)
 
Now you are *talking*! That bundle of wires would completely overwhelm me.

(What's the red color on the underside of the frame?)

No idea - maybe a reflection from something under the lift.
 
No idea - maybe a reflection from something under the lift.

Looking at it again, it's the rail of the lift itself; flash from the camera caused it.

Another thing I attempted this week was to get the dash set. At first it wouldn't line up with the mounting holes along the top, which was strange, because I'd had it mounted in place before sending the body off for paint. But also before mounting the gauges, switches and lights... Yep, the gauges and lights interfered with the holes in the scuttle. If you look at the picture above, especially at the warning lights and the center gauge, you can see how close they are to the mounting points. Had to drag out the Dremel and cut away some of the fiberglass for clearance. (Fiberglass dust is NOT nice!) However, it's still not lining up correctly - could only fit two of the seven screws - so I have to address that further. Might have to add a brace to help stabilize it, as the dash only mounts to a flange which is part of the fiberglass tub, and I'm afraid that cutting away some of it may compromise it. Probably better to have the brace regardless.

Up this next week is to get the alternator and carbs mounted. Finish up the brake lines, and work on the wiring a bit. After this week, I may take a break for a while, as I think I need a time-out.
 
Mickey - is it possible that the entire body (and the mounted dash panel) slightly changes shape when the heavy stuff (engine ...) is put in place?

Might be what's causing your fitting headaches.

Tom M.
 
Mickey - is it possible that the entire body (and the mounted dash panel) slightly changes shape when the heavy stuff (engine ...) is put in place?

Might be what's causing your fitting headaches.

Tom M.

Don't think so. The dash problem is on me. I fit it blank, before installing the gauges, etc. As mentioned, you can see how close they are to the mounting screws. Should have lowered them a bit. But I wanted to center the gauges vertically, and leave room under the lights for a radio/blanking plate.

And the drivetrain issue had to do with its total length - an inch too long, as it turned out. Can't see the frame shrinking an inch... There are three different driveshafts for MGBs, but mine is the more universal one in the middle of the pack, so I don't think that was the issue. Just don't know, but we sorted it out. I think...
 
Mickey: Looking great! Had a similar issue fitting the dash-I think the mold was a tad off for a wood dash. Highly suggest you add a brace; I used two pieces of 1 inch aluminum attached to the bottom of the dash and mounted on the steel grounding bar. If you need a picture let me know. By the way, after getting a new muffler and replacing the water pump again, I'm about to get mine on the road again. Cheers, J.D.
 
Hey, J.D.

Yes, please send pictures of your dash brace. Will definitely be working one in.

Best,
Mickey
 
Not a lot to report; been caught up in the tedium of sorting out all kinds of fitment issues. But all hydraulic lines are complete and tightened down. Engine work continues: The alternator is in place, and we're working on solving an issue with clearance for air filters. There's very little room - about an inch for the front carb, even with slicing the carb insulators down to 3/8"! - so we're fabricating a plenum to cover both carbs, and then install a single filter at the rear where there's a bit more room. The plenum will have to make a downward turn there, as the rear carb is too close to the steering shaft and clutch/brake lines. Couple of pictures attached. It's been a challenge, to say the least! Have to source a filter that we can attach...

output.jpg


output(1).jpg


I did manage to score new interior panels and seat covers. This Victor came with black vinyl seats and panels; seats were assembled and covered, but the panels were shipped loose. All were in very good shape, and I had every intention of using them. But if I'd had my preference, with the paint color choice, I would've picked green or tan. Several weeks ago a complete set of green leather interior - seat covers and even the panels - appeared on ebay. The package even included a bolt of green leather for the dash crash rail and rear storage panels. Showed it to SWMBO and said in my best pitiful, whiny voice that the car would look much better with green trim than black. Got her blessing and they're MINE!

Found an upholsterer who carefully removed the old covers and installed the leather. I've done vinyl myself before with good results, but didn't want to risk it with leather. I'll be putting them, along with all the matching interior panels, on ebay to recoup some of the cost.

0525181553.jpg



What's the saying... "Press on, regardless"? Seems to apply!
 
Have a look around the 'net for the airbox/plenum/filter arrangement in early Elans, Bro. The rig ducted air from a Ford (round) air filter housing mounted in the nose, thru flexible tubing to the plenum. Plenum is deeper than you have room for, but it may be a good reference point.
 
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