Starting Mega squirt main board assembly

I figure since I'll be hopping around on crutches with no place to go, now would be a good time to assemble my mega squirt unit. I built the stim maybe a year ago, but haven't tested it yet ( cause I don't have a MS unit to test it with).

I'm reading up tonight and starting tommorrow.

Morri/ Jack, did you buy assembled units or build 'em yourself? I really gonna need you guys to help me get this thing tuned.

Doc, I'm suprised you haven't done this yet (build and install a MS) as it seems like it would be right up your alley.

I bought mine assembled. Worth every penny.

Do you have the v3.0 board? If not, you
may consider getting it. It's a major improvement over the v2.2 board. Also, there is not much support for the v2.2. boards anymore.

v2.2 and it's about 6 years old. I've already got $$ tied up in this one and would hate to spend more.

kellysguy said:

Doc, I'm suprised you haven't done this yet (build and install a MS) as it seems like it would be right up your alley.

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If I were trying to listen to Radio Moscow, mebbe. Once a Weber side-draught is tweaked properly there's no need for spending time 'n money on all them fool management 'lectronics. :smirk:

I built mine from the kit and I loved every minute of it. I've built some electronic kits in the past... just some fun little hobby games... but building a usable ECU is by far the coolest and most useful electronics kit I've ever built. It was fun and the fact that it works is totally rewarding. Of course, next time, "<span style="font-style: italic">beentheredonethat</span>" and buy the preassembled unit. :laugh:

Tuning was really pretty simple. My advice is just spend the $40 and get the registered version of TunerStudio with the "Analyze Live" function. Then you just go for a drive and the car essentially sets itself and you can always make little tweaks here and there.

Anyways, I'll be happy to add my $.02 when needed. :wink:

Good luck, <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">read and understand the instructions</span></span>, take your time, and be patient!

JACK

PS- I had to read and reread the build instructions about a hundred times before I understood how to solder all the components and jumpers to get the crank trigger, MS, and EDIS4 to talk to one another but in the end, it worked the very first time and I know how it all works.

DrEntropy said:

kellysguy said:

Doc, I'm suprised you haven't done this yet (build and install a MS) as it seems like it would be right up your alley.

Click to expand...

If I were trying to listen to Radio Moscow, mebbe. Once a Weber side-draught is tweaked properly there's no need for spending time 'n money on all them fool management 'lectronics. :smirk:

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That's my problem, I don't know nuthin' 'bout tweakin' them side drafts. I've read you can do it at home,; I've read you can't. I've read the bits get pricey. Truth be told, I'm tired of getting in and out of the car to make adjustments. Jet kits oughta come with door hinge bushings. Never been taught carb tuning. I can clean 'em out and make them run like they should. Something tells me you can't learn how to tweak a side sucker from a book. Nobody 'round here to learn from either. Seems all the smart folks moved to south Florida.


Besides, I'm after economy and from what I've read, I won't be able to get the numbers I'm after outta one(especially two) of them side suckers.

Jack, I just want to control fuel for now. Glad to see you built it from scratch. I'm DEFINATLY gonna need your help soon, Morris you too. Doc, it sure would be nice to have a "mega" experienced hand such as yourself on deck that knows both electronic and carb tweaking.

Guys, this is a HUGE undertaking for me. Last time I played with electricity I was five. I stuck the plactic chrome plated tweezers from the "Opporation" board game in the electrical outlet and I've never come close to it since. Not that it's the same voltage, but I've always shy'd away from any form of electricity or electronics.

Think I'm gonna chicken out and have it built. The guy I got the kit from said $100 to assemble it and I think it'll probably be $$$ well spent. I can't gat anything for it like this and if I screw this one up it'll be another $240 to get one. Seems like the best plan.

Yeah, if you haven't played with <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"'lectronics"</span></span> since you were 5, this might not be one to learn on.

$100 definitely is a good deal. That guy certainly isn't gettin rich doing it at that price. It took me many hours to complete. Of course, once you've done one, the second and third would go faster and faster and so on.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Jet kits oughta come with door hinge bushings.[/QUOTE]
:lol: HAHAHA.

JACK

Morris and I have similar cars and climates.

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong; if I use Morris' base maps and tuner studio, the car will tune itself with little to no input from me, right?

They'll be subtle changes, as I'll have two injectors instead of one that will need to be addressed, but it seems like Morris' maps would be a really good start for me.

Actually... The dual SU set up you have is very different from mine and I doubt my maps will be much good to you. They may be better than starting from the generic map MegaTune generates... but not much.

Divide by 2 and everything should be the same, right?

Naw... it doesn't really work like that.

Your fuel map is a map of Volumetric Efficiency... meaning... the efficiency of how well air is moving into your engine at a given engine speed and MAP. Megasquirt automatically calculates how much fuel to squirt (under perfect conditions) based on your engine size and injector flow. The VE table modifies that calculation based on real world engine conditions. So your manifold, throttle bodies, head, valves and cam are what affect the values in your VE table.

As you and I have very different manifolds and throttle bodies, it is reasonable to expect that our VE tables will look very different.

But hey... it's worth a shot.

Also, a guy nearish to where I work is offering a Megasquirt on Craigslist for $200. I would be happy to go pick it up for you if the kit you have does not work out. Mebbe you can send me your JimStim, so I can give it a quick once over before I pay him. Sadly, I do not have a JimStim.

https://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1989337219.html

Thanks for the offer but I'm gonna have my kit assembled. Just had a "talk" earlier and it seem some car funds are required for house bills. I might have to put this on hold for a while. If I could just get the SU's to quit vapor locking, I'd stick with those especially since you're not getting any better milage w/ MS. Too bad I can't put the dual DCOE's on the car. I would REALLY LIke to do that.

kellysguy said:

If I could just get the SU's to quit vapor locking, I'd stick with those especially since you're not getting any better milage w/ MS.

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What are you using as a spacer/insulator? Last I heard, you were getting one cut. Why don't you use those black, inch thick spacers, as on the 1275.

I've sent off for one for my single HS4 - I'm expecting great things from it. That carb gets stinking hot (just using the old 1/4" cork ZS gasket).

By some miracle, Ace Hardware has the longer studs.

Yeah, what are the benefits from MegaSquirt if the mpg doesn't improve? I can appreciate the "coolness" factor but do you somehow get better performance or were you looking at it to solve this pesky vapor lock issue?

Cheers!

A cut 1" spacer to .441.

MS should improve milage, but Morris is getting them same as mine. It should help vapor lock as well as provide better performance. I also like the idea that I don't have to fab dooor hinge bushings from extra carb jets.

kellysguy said:

A cut 1" spacer to .441.

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How come you just didn't use 2 spacers? Do you have clearance issues or did you just have the one spacer on hand?

Got mine in the mail yesterday for the HS4 - it is huge - 1 and 1/8" thick - is this a spacer (to move the carb away from the exhaust manifold) or did MG intend it as a heat insulator ? Did I also read somewhere that it is also beneficial to increase the distance somewhat between where the fuel is mixed and the intake manifold - something about fuel/air turbulence.

Cheers!

I cut one spacer/insulator into two pieces that are .441. Yes I have clearance issues. Nex time I pull the motor I plan on removing the federal brace completly. (grinding out the welds, not cutting out the piece.) I'll probabaly never put it back in, but at least I'll have the option.

Spacers are good for all of the above and it is supposed to help top end too.