• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

TR6 Continuous Starting and Ignition Issues

Tearful Owner

Freshman Member
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
I've owned my 71 TR6 for 10 years and have made multiple changes to include re-wiring, new ignition system (Petronix), gauges (took out old gauges and upgraded the new gauges so I don't have to use the stablilizer). That said, the car has mostly garage sat for the last four years so the new stuff, is still new! However, brings me to the reall issue. Recently the car refused to start after it was hot, figured vapor lock as after it said it started right up. Then a few days later it completely died and had to have it towed to a shop as I tried everything. Finally mechanic claimed the starter was bad. Just had it replaced before I sat the car down; okay, replace it again. Picked the car up, got it home and boom after a couple of starts the new aftermarket ignition switch got nothing and it never seemed like it was working correctly. I checked and it had "juice" was the car wouldn't do anything, no starter click, etc. I then installed just a push button three pronged hookup and used a remote starter and neighbor got any response! Then I checked the if any current was getting to the three pronged plug and if it was the car should've started or turned over. Upon checking the switch/button it was hot at the battery pull and no current at the solenoid pull. Now I don't know if the ignition switch, not working is the problem or the starter/solenoid (new) is at fault. I'm really at a loss, anyone know if the car should've bypassed the ignition switch with the push button switch or is the starter/solenoid bad since no current is coming to the switch from the solenoid? Thanks in advance. Just about ready to sell the car, getting to old to get under hoods and dashes.
 

Sarastro

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I don't quite understand this, but here is my take on it:

If the engine isn't cranking, you should check for voltage at the starter's solenoid terminal with the thinner wire, when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. Use a voltmeter or test lamp. If you get no voltage, make sure you are getting voltage going to the switch (brown-white wires). Then remove the red-white and see if you get voltage at the switch terminal where the red-white was connected. If you don't, something is wrong with the switch. If you do, something is wrong in the wiring between the switch and starter, almost certainly a bad connection.

If you are getting power to the solenoid, make sure that the connections for the thick wires are good: clean and tight. Check for voltage at the starter. If all this checks out and it still won't crank, it's probably a bad starter.

This is the way you do electrical troubleshooting. Eliminate possibilities, logically, until you isolate the problem. Randomly trying things rarely works.
 
OP
T

Tearful Owner

Freshman Member
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
I think your right but I've searched with a voltage light and current is going to starter but not the solenoid. Again, tried a push button remote switch and hooked it up to the positive battery and solenoid at the proper prong, no turn over. Tried turning the old ignition switch on and still nothing. I do believe that the main problem is the ignition switch, so getting new one even though it shows, via the voltage tester that current is going out of the switch, but I guess it's like a computer, don't know where it goes after it's sent. Big question is, based on my experience the remote starter should turn over the car, with or without, the ignition switch turned on. Anyone know if I'm correct. Internet gives me two different answers
 

Sarastro

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I think you are saying that you have voltage on the high-current cable to the starter, but not at the small terminal where the starter solenoid is powered. Good start (so to speak!).

But you then say you have current coming out of the switch. If you have voltage at the proper terminal on the switch, but none at the starter, it's got to be a bad wire or connection.

I'm still concerned that you can't make the starter turn over with a remote switch. That doesn't sound like a bad ignition switch; it sounds like a bad solenoid in the starter. Or, a bad connection. Or a bad remote switch--those things are often pretty junky.

If it were me, I would connect a wire to the small terminal on the starter and touch the other end directly to the battery. If that doesn't turn it over, the starter is definitely bad. (Don't touch the wire when you do that--keep hands on the insulation or you will get a goodly zap!)
 
OP
T

Tearful Owner

Freshman Member
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
I think you are saying that you have voltage on the high-current cable to the starter, but not at the small terminal where the starter solenoid is powered. Good start (so to speak!).

But you then say you have current coming out of the switch. If you have voltage at the proper terminal on the switch, but none at the starter, it's got to be a bad wire or connection.

I'm still concerned that you can't make the starter turn over with a remote switch. That doesn't sound like a bad ignition switch; it sounds like a bad solenoid in the starter. Or, a bad connection. Or a bad remote switch--those things are often pretty junky.

If it were me, I would connect a wire to the small terminal on the starter and touch the other end directly to the battery. If that doesn't turn it over, the starter is definitely bad. (Don't touch the wire when you do that--keep hands on the insulation or you will get a goodly zap!)
Thanks haven't tried that, but will upon return to s after holidayd
 

TomMull

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Don't know how the TR6 is wired but my mentor back in the early sixties would always answer my electrical questions with, "It"s always the ground". The years have shown him to have been right a lot of the time.
If you haven't already, I'd check and clean both battery terminals as well as the battery to body and body to engine ground connections.
Tom
 

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I thought the remote starters only had 2 wires and the switch button. I do not know much about tr6 wiring, but I suspect there is only one wire on the starter and case ground to the starter from the block with a solenoid in there some where------ that being said you should be able to hot wire or jump over the solenoid and the starter should run. How is the battery? If the battery is slightly weak, it will not turn run the starter because they draw a lot of amps

Steve
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
K TR2/3/3A Pushing down the clutch pedal when starting the car? Triumph 13
angelfj1 TR5/TR250 TR250 - Lucas 4ST Starting Solenoid-Mounting Location/Details Triumph 2
angelfj1 TR5/TR250 TR250 Need Help identifying wires (2 - black) feeding starting solenoid Triumph 6
bigjones TR2/3/3A Starting up an engine that hasn't ran for a while. Triumph 39
S TR2/3/3A TR3 Hard Starting Triumph 4
H MGB Starting Problems MG 3
J TR4/4A 1964 Triumph TR4 - Not Starting/Running Triumph 3
angelfj1 TR5/TR250 Starting a TR250 that's been sitting for 10 years Triumph 12
M TR6 Just starting out… Triumph 16
RichB4493 TR2/3/3A TR3 not starting - Slow/Weak Starter Triumph 33
M TR2/3/3A 1958 TR 3 , crankshaft nut for hand starting Triumph 7
P Wedge Starting problems TR8 Triumph 3
K TR6 tr6 not starting Triumph 11
Jim_Stevens TR2/3/3A Intermittent starting Triumph 14
R TR2/3/3A Starting car for 1st time after rebuild. Triumph 13
F TR2/3/3A starting scuttle repair Triumph 27
jdubois GT6 After over two years stalled at the body shop, my GT6 is starting come back to life! Triumph 5
R TR2/3/3A Starting TR-2 for first time after restoration Triumph 58
D Wanted TR3A starting handle Triumph Classifieds 0
D Starting After Carbs Rebuilt Austin Healey 30
Got_All_4 TR6 Starting my frame restoration Triumph 32
Jayplum TR2/3/3A Starting from scratch what color Triumph 25
sundown TR6 Starting Triumph 43
F TR2/3/3A I'm stuck... alternator/wiring/starting/? Triumph 2
F TR2/3/3A 1960 TR3A starting chassis work Triumph 81
J TR2/3/3A Starting my TR3 A restoration Triumph 8
F TR2/3/3A Starting Triumph 4
N Hesitant starting Austin Healey 16
Got_All_4 TR6 Starting The Tear Down Of MY 1969 TR6 Triumph 6
G TR4/4A Starting without Transmission attached Triumph 9
P BN4 Hesitates on Starting Austin Healey 12
D Hard Starting Austin Healey 14
mgedit TR2/3/3A 56 TR3 Starting Issue Triumph 9
M Starting from cold Austin Healey 2
R Very Difficult cold weather starting problems! Austin Healey 21
R TR4/4A Starting TR4A after 30 years Triumph 12
R winter hard starting BJ7 Austin Healey 16
P Jump starting a positive ground BJ8 Austin Healey 4
W starting motor Jaguar 0
D TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey. Triumph 166
P TR6 Quick starting Triumph 2
Joe Reed General Tech Starting a screw in a tight location... MG 9
P TR6 TR6 hard starting Triumph 24
Q Just Starting Restoration Of 1967 E Type Jaguar OTS Jaguar 13
stretchit2 Starting Issue Austin Healey 6
M TR6 Intermittant starting problems Triumph 4
Willie_P TR4/4A Starting long dormant TR engine..start up procedures? Triumph 10
S Hard starting on Webers from cold Austin Healey 12
T TR4/4A Weird starting issue with my TR-4 Triumph 15
M '61 BN-7 Progressively Harder Starting . . . Now Won't Start Austin Healey 9

Similar threads

Top