Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
mountainman
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Can anyone tell me what size bullet conecters I need for my tail and front turn signal lights. I found 0.156 and 0.180 on the net. I don't know how to measure these.
Thanks
Greg
Thanks
Greg
-
The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
-
Hey there Guest!
If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Bullet Wire Conecters
- Thread starter mountainman
- Start date
Share this page
T
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Give British Wiring a call- nice folks.
I had a similar problem and mailed them samples
of my existing bullets and they told me exactly
what I needed and sold me the parts at a very
reasonable cost.
https://www.britishwiring.com/
Dale(Tinster)
I had a similar problem and mailed them samples
of my existing bullets and they told me exactly
what I needed and sold me the parts at a very
reasonable cost.
https://www.britishwiring.com/
Dale(Tinster)
BobbyD
Jedi Knight
Offline
Greg,
When you order from BW, note that there are bullets that can be crimped and/or soldered. The bullet size you need is determined by the wire size going into the bullet. You'll have to ask the folks at BW but I think their "crimpable" bullets require their crimping tool that makes a hexagonal shaped crimp. It's a pricey tool but if you're doing a lot bullets, it saves time in the long run.
When you order from BW, note that there are bullets that can be crimped and/or soldered. The bullet size you need is determined by the wire size going into the bullet. You'll have to ask the folks at BW but I think their "crimpable" bullets require their crimping tool that makes a hexagonal shaped crimp. It's a pricey tool but if you're doing a lot bullets, it saves time in the long run.
T
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Greg- BobbyD is 100% correct- purchase both tools.
They seem pricey but I have found many other uses
for the crimping tool, unrelated to my car wiring.
I crimped AND soldered all my bullets. The tool is an
excellent holder while you fill the inside with solder.
The snap pliers are also a must. You will drive yourself
nut trying to press the bullets into the connectors without
the pliers. I bought 100 bullets and maybe 20 different type
connectors just to have around. Great for wiring on boats!
You mentioned tail lights. You might need to solder ground
wires to the light bulb holders, depending how badly the
socket holes are beat up. All of my tail end light holders
needed ground wires added.
good luck
Dale(Tinster)
They seem pricey but I have found many other uses
for the crimping tool, unrelated to my car wiring.
I crimped AND soldered all my bullets. The tool is an
excellent holder while you fill the inside with solder.
The snap pliers are also a must. You will drive yourself
nut trying to press the bullets into the connectors without
the pliers. I bought 100 bullets and maybe 20 different type
connectors just to have around. Great for wiring on boats!
You mentioned tail lights. You might need to solder ground
wires to the light bulb holders, depending how badly the
socket holes are beat up. All of my tail end light holders
needed ground wires added.
good luck
Dale(Tinster)
OP
mountainman
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Thanks guys, I just called BW and order. They are really nice and helpful people.
angelfj1
Yoda
Offline
Greg: Do you own a set of drill bits? Slide a few bits into the connector sleeve until you find one that fits nice and snug. Then just convert from fraction to decimal. For example a 3/16 drill bit would be 0.046875. Then order the one closest to the opening in the connector.
T
Tinster
Guest
Guest
Offline
Brosky said:
<span style="color: #990000">A combination of both. I installed a grounding block, driver's
side trunk rear, left corner. Some of the bulb fixtures had ground wire spades which
I wired into a bullet. The bulb fixtures with no ground spades
I soldered ground wires and terminared with a bullet.
I ran the passenger side rear lights into a 4-way connector with a lead
wire crossing the rear and terminating into the left side grounding block.
Then I did the same for the left lights plus added the fuel tank ground to
the grounding block. I tied in the license plate bulb with a direct wire
to the grounding block. I think I have a total of 5 or 6 grounding blocks
in whole car re-wire.
It is amazing how useful and versatile the bullets and connectors are.
My socket holes were so beat up I could not get a functioning ground.
I actually wired the car twice. Once without grounding blocks and almost
nothing functioned. The 2nd time with blocks and everything functioned.
Hope this helps.
best regards,
dale</span>
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
As I think this question was re a TR3's tailights & turn signals, I'll add -- on mine the bullets for those were not the rigid cast type but rather a stamped sheet metal style with a slot up the side. On those I believe you feed the (untwisted) wire strands thru the hole and bend them back over the bullet, then insert it in the fixture. Makes a quick, reusable, secure connection for the low-amp connections.
Offline
Aloha Geo,
Your recollection is correct for the TR3A. I just had my left rear tail light apart to clean up the connections. The tail light fixture also includes a bullet and socket for a ground wire attachment.
Your recollection is correct for the TR3A. I just had my left rear tail light apart to clean up the connections. The tail light fixture also includes a bullet and socket for a ground wire attachment.
Moseso
Jedi Knight
Offline
With both of the above.Unfortunately, both TRF and British Wiring are listing the "hollow bullet" connector you've described as "NLS." (Unobtanium)
It's a simple part. You'd think someone could make some repros.
HEY! I just had an idea while writing this. Some measurements will need to be taken, of course, but, I'm betting a .22 caliber brass shell would make a usable substitute for those connectors.
martx-5
Yoda
Offline
Actually, I think the original bullets for the tail lights are a pretty cheesy arrangement, and I'm sure have contributed to many "Lucas" moments. I used the regular bullets soldered on. They're a little hard to squeeze in the connectors, but they are nice and tight and for me, a much better arrangement.
angelfj1
Yoda
Offline
Moseso said:
Unfortunately, both TRF and British Wiring are listing the "hollow bullet" connector you've described as "NLS." (Unobtanium)
It's a simple part. You'd think someone could make some repros.
HEY! I just had an idea while writing this. Some measurements will need to be taken, of course, but, I'm betting a .22 caliber brass shell would make a usable substitute for those connectors.
Moses, I got some from these folks a while back, approx. $0.30 each!
Vintage Supplies Ltd.
Moseso
Jedi Knight
Offline
My recollection, from assembly of the tail lights and side lights where these things are used, is that the hollow bullets are used -- instead of crimp/solder-on types -- so that the wire can be pushed through a small "weather tight" hole in the rubber backings. After the wire is pushed through, the bullet can then be assembled to the end and plugged in.
I can't recall that ever being the location of a light failure.
I can't recall that ever being the location of a light failure.
Offline
Usually the failure is a poor ground. With the non-soldered connectors the potential for electrolysis and corrosion is much higher.
I've seen PLENTY of those connectors get to a point they stopped passin' electrons. Copper/brass, copper/steel. I like Art's answer: solder 'em. One less interface to corrode.
Geez, Frank. I'm jealous an' droolin'... it was ham-n-cheese sammiges for me last eve. *sigh*
I've seen PLENTY of those connectors get to a point they stopped passin' electrons. Copper/brass, copper/steel. I like Art's answer: solder 'em. One less interface to corrode.
angelfj said:
Geez, Frank. I'm jealous an' droolin'... it was ham-n-cheese sammiges for me last eve. *sigh*
Similar threads
Similar threads
-
-
Wanted Wanted - Ford Cortina "bullet" style gearbox
- Started by Chevron56
- Replies: 1
-
-
-
Please identify these bullet mirrors - Need base and gasket
- Started by jjs64bj8
- Replies: 5
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
TR4/4A Knock off wire wheels procedure..basic questions- Started by scottkilpatrick
- Replies: 9
-
-
-
-
-
educational resources for truing wire wheels
- Started by electricmayhem
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.