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Bullet Wire Conecters

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mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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Can anyone tell me what size bullet conecters I need for my tail and front turn signal lights. I found 0.156 and 0.180 on the net. I don't know how to measure these.
Thanks
Greg
 
Give British Wiring a call- nice folks.

I had a similar problem and mailed them samples
of my existing bullets and they told me exactly
what I needed and sold me the parts at a very
reasonable cost.

https://www.britishwiring.com/

Dale(Tinster)
 
Greg,
When you order from BW, note that there are bullets that can be crimped and/or soldered. The bullet size you need is determined by the wire size going into the bullet. You'll have to ask the folks at BW but I think their "crimpable" bullets require their crimping tool that makes a hexagonal shaped crimp. It's a pricey tool but if you're doing a lot bullets, it saves time in the long run.

BWTools.jpg
 
Greg- BobbyD is 100% correct- purchase both tools.
They seem pricey but I have found many other uses
for the crimping tool, unrelated to my car wiring.

I crimped AND soldered all my bullets. The tool is an
excellent holder while you fill the inside with solder.

The snap pliers are also a must. You will drive yourself
nut trying to press the bullets into the connectors without
the pliers. I bought 100 bullets and maybe 20 different type
connectors just to have around. Great for wiring on boats!

You mentioned tail lights. You might need to solder ground
wires to the light bulb holders, depending how badly the
socket holes are beat up. All of my tail end light holders
needed ground wires added.

good luck

Dale(Tinster)
 
Dale,

Did you put a connecting boss or bridge on your trunk light grounds or just wire to rear panel?
 
Thanks guys, I just called BW and order. They are really nice and helpful people.
 
Greg: Do you own a set of drill bits? Slide a few bits into the connector sleeve until you find one that fits nice and snug. Then just convert from fraction to decimal. For example a 3/16 drill bit would be 0.046875. Then order the one closest to the opening in the connector.
 
Tinster said:
You mentioned tail lights. You might need to solder ground
wires to the light bulb holders, depending how badly the
socket holes are beat up. All of my tail end light holders
needed ground wires added.
Click to expand...

Dale: That is a great suggestion. Your understanding of these cars has grown <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 14pt">immensely</span></span> since the " crypt car" days! :yesnod:
 
Brosky said:
Dale,

Did you put a connecting boss or bridge on your trunk light grounds or just wire to rear panel?
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">A combination of both. I installed a grounding block, driver's
side trunk rear, left corner. Some of the bulb fixtures had ground wire spades which
I wired into a bullet. The bulb fixtures with no ground spades
I soldered ground wires and terminared with a bullet.

I ran the passenger side rear lights into a 4-way connector with a lead
wire crossing the rear and terminating into the left side grounding block.
Then I did the same for the left lights plus added the fuel tank ground to
the grounding block. I tied in the license plate bulb with a direct wire
to the grounding block. I think I have a total of 5 or 6 grounding blocks
in whole car re-wire.

It is amazing how useful and versatile the bullets and connectors are.
My socket holes were so beat up I could not get a functioning ground.

I actually wired the car twice. Once without grounding blocks and almost
nothing functioned. The 2nd time with blocks and everything functioned.

Hope this helps.

best regards,

dale</span>
 
angelfj said:
... For example a 3/16 drill bit would be 0.046875....
Click to expand...

3/16" = 0.1875.....0.046875 = 3/64"....
 
:lol:

...tho I dunno what I'm laughin' about. It's become a life style for me. Can't remember decimal equivalents any more, gotta get out my cheat-chart about every time now.
 
DrEntropy said:
:lol:

...tho I dunno what I'm laughin' about. It's become a life style for me. Can't remember decimal equivalents any more, gotta get out my cheat-chart about every time now.
Click to expand...

Doc, could it be an Italian thing? Making pasta with calamari for dinner, tonight.
 
As I think this question was re a TR3's tailights & turn signals, I'll add -- on mine the bullets for those were not the rigid cast type but rather a stamped sheet metal style with a slot up the side. On those I believe you feed the (untwisted) wire strands thru the hole and bend them back over the bullet, then insert it in the fixture. Makes a quick, reusable, secure connection for the low-amp connections.
 
Aloha Geo,

Your recollection is correct for the TR3A. I just had my left rear tail light apart to clean up the connections. The tail light fixture also includes a bullet and socket for a ground wire attachment.
 
:iagree: With both of the above.
Unfortunately, both TRF and British Wiring are listing the "hollow bullet" connector you've described as "NLS." (Unobtanium)

It's a simple part. You'd think someone could make some repros.

HEY! I just had an idea while writing this. Some measurements will need to be taken, of course, but, I'm betting a .22 caliber brass shell would make a usable substitute for those connectors.
 
Actually, I think the original bullets for the tail lights are a pretty cheesy arrangement, and I'm sure have contributed to many "Lucas" moments. I used the regular bullets soldered on. They're a little hard to squeeze in the connectors, but they are nice and tight and for me, a much better arrangement.
 
Moseso said:
:iagree: With both of the above.
Unfortunately, both TRF and British Wiring are listing the "hollow bullet" connector you've described as "NLS." (Unobtanium)

It's a simple part. You'd think someone could make some repros.

HEY! I just had an idea while writing this. Some measurements will need to be taken, of course, but, I'm betting a .22 caliber brass shell would make a usable substitute for those connectors.
Click to expand...

Moses, I got some from these folks a while back, approx. $0.30 each!

Vintage Supplies Ltd.
 
My recollection, from assembly of the tail lights and side lights where these things are used, is that the hollow bullets are used -- instead of crimp/solder-on types -- so that the wire can be pushed through a small "weather tight" hole in the rubber backings. After the wire is pushed through, the bullet can then be assembled to the end and plugged in.

I can't recall that ever being the location of a light failure.
 
Usually the failure is a poor ground. With the non-soldered connectors the potential for electrolysis and corrosion is much higher.

I've seen PLENTY of those connectors get to a point they stopped passin' electrons. Copper/brass, copper/steel. I like Art's answer: solder 'em. One less interface to corrode.

angelfj said:
Doc, could it be an Italian thing? Making pasta with calamari for dinner, tonight.
Click to expand...

Geez, Frank. I'm jealous an' droolin'... it was ham-n-cheese sammiges for me last eve. *sigh*
 
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