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OK, ya'll have heard about my shim dilemma <span style="font-style: italic">ad nauseum </span>.
So I have a ton of toe-in on my rear wheels because I dropped all fifteen (count'em, <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">15</span></span>) shims in a pile on the garage floor without making note of where they went. So I put the TA's back on with GoodParts adjustable trailing arms. My question is, can I loosen the two bolts on each TA bracket with the spring and tube shock in place, one at a time of course, and pry the TA bracket out just enough with perhaps a large screwdriver to slip in a shim or two without something evil happening? Or should I jack the TA, take out the shock and remove all the stress on the spring-loaded TA to preclude a potential disaster, like breaking something? There is a lot of stress on the bracket with those grade 8 bolts holding them on. I just want to get them close enough so that when I bring it to the alignment shop that they don't laugh me outta the place. Also, the 15 shims that were put there by the factory were to correct toe-in as well as camber. The GoodParts brackets eliminates the need for single shims (one for each bolt) as well as the stepped brackets from the factory. The toe-in adjustment feature makes Richard's one-size-fits-all bracket work with the adjustable, sliding toe-in feature. Oh, and the shims I will use are new ones from Moss. They only sell the one-piece, large shim that fits both bolts simultaneously to only adjust toe-in, not camber. Make sense?
So I have a ton of toe-in on my rear wheels because I dropped all fifteen (count'em, <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">15</span></span>) shims in a pile on the garage floor without making note of where they went. So I put the TA's back on with GoodParts adjustable trailing arms. My question is, can I loosen the two bolts on each TA bracket with the spring and tube shock in place, one at a time of course, and pry the TA bracket out just enough with perhaps a large screwdriver to slip in a shim or two without something evil happening? Or should I jack the TA, take out the shock and remove all the stress on the spring-loaded TA to preclude a potential disaster, like breaking something? There is a lot of stress on the bracket with those grade 8 bolts holding them on. I just want to get them close enough so that when I bring it to the alignment shop that they don't laugh me outta the place. Also, the 15 shims that were put there by the factory were to correct toe-in as well as camber. The GoodParts brackets eliminates the need for single shims (one for each bolt) as well as the stepped brackets from the factory. The toe-in adjustment feature makes Richard's one-size-fits-all bracket work with the adjustable, sliding toe-in feature. Oh, and the shims I will use are new ones from Moss. They only sell the one-piece, large shim that fits both bolts simultaneously to only adjust toe-in, not camber. Make sense?
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