Why won't my steering wheel turn on my 1954 100/4 BN1?

[LiveFromNY]

Hey all,

Recently acquired a 1954 BN1 after several years playing with early Porsches and really enjoying my new car and it's ever-so-British idiosyncrasies.

I'm having some issues with my steering wheel. I recently purchased a Moto-lita wheel and Boss kit for my car and am in the process of installing it. I ulled the trafficator and immediately noticed that the steering wheel nut was loose. I would generously describe it as "finger tight". When I installed the new wheel, and torqued it down, the wheel wouldn't budge an inch. A quick examination told me that the issue was that the wheel was being torqued down tight against the outer steering column. Out of curiosity, I put the old wheel back down and tightened it. Same issue. With even light torque, the old wheel also ends up tight against the steering column and won't move.

I've made some calls and everyone seems to be of the opinion that the spline on my non-adjustable inner column should have some sort of collar beneath it that the wheel is installed tight against preventing the wheel from tightening against the outer column shaft, I have nothing of the sort (see photo). I'm wondering if I could be missing parts? All I have, literally, is the wheel and a nut. I've deduced that there should be some type of turn signal cancelling washer but can't see anything in the schematics that would allow me to tighten the wheel and not have it come up against the outer column.

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?

 

[LiveFromNY]

Common sense tells me that the inner column must have a collar for the wheel to tighten against. I'm wondering if somehow the inner column has slipped down in relation to the outer column (or the outer column has move up) so that the collar is just inside the outer column? But I can't see any adjustment between the inner and out columns? I must be missing something...

 

[LiveFromNY]

Getting closer.

I did some research and it seems that I was right. There is supposed to be a collar on the inner shaft that the steering wheel tightens up against and that prevents the wheel from tightening against the outer column housing. This image from Denis Welch clearly shows the small collar at the base of the spline (show on the non-adjustable column).



And here's a side shot of mine. The collar that is visible in the photo above isn't anywhere to be seen. It appears obvious that the inner shaft has shifted down slightly in relation to the outer housing and the collar is now inside the housing.



So now I need to find how the inner column shaft and outer column housing are adjusted in relation to each other so I can either slide the inner shaft up perhaps 1/4 inch or the outer shaft down the same distance.

Still looking for any suggestions.

 

[Healey 100]

I had the same problem with mine. I finally resolved it by putting a snap ring around the shaft that could catch onto that very modest shoulder below the spline. For years I just left the column nut loose to keep the steering wheel from dragging on the column. I still don't tighten the nut too much so wheel doesn't push the snap ring past the shoulder. I think there is some odd bushing missing on the steering shaft that is supposed to provide a hard bottom for the wheel against that shoulder.

Not sure why the shoulder can't be seen in your pictures. Perhaps the upper bushing in the column is too high? I don't think there is a way to move the shaft up and down significantly, but it has been many years since I looked inside the steering box.

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

The steering wheel should bottom out on the collar on the steering shaft just above the housing (First Photo). Yours appears to be inside the housing. Check the gear end to see if looks like the second photo with all the bearings, races, and spacers in place. The pictures are from a 3000 non adjustable. The BN1/2 manual I have indicates the only major difference between the 3000 and the BN1/2 is the rocker shaft which fits the worm gear, but does not show a picture of the steering wheel. The BN1/2 manual also makes no reference (In the parts list) to a collar type washer that would keep the wheel from binding.

Hopefully another 100 owner will chime in with a definitive answer.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Duane

 

[Healey 100]

Moss catalog indicates there is a "circlip" that I think snaps into the low spot between the spline and the shoulder. I suppose this clip can provide a fairly hard bottom for the wheel to tighten against.

My own 100 did not have this circlip, but I used a snap ring instead. As per my post, it provides a fairly weak bottom for the wheel, but does keep the column from dragging on the wheel.

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

Moss catalog indicates there is a "circlip" that I think snaps into the low spot between the spline and the shoulder. I suppose this clip can provide a fairly hard bottom for the wheel to tighten against.

My own 100 did not have this circlip, but I used a snap ring instead. As per my post, it provides a fairly weak bottom for the wheel, but does keep the column from dragging on the wheel.

Bill,

The circlip listed in the moss catalog is for the adjustable steering column and goes on the end of the column to keep the wheel from coming off the shaft. Does the end of your column look like the picture I posted?

Thanks,
Duane

 

[Healey 100]

As I recall, my column looks like yours. The problem is that shoulder is not very high, and the female splines deform and ride up on it. And the wheel slips down if you tighten the nut firmly and then the hub interferes with the column. The snap ring I added to mine provided a firmer stop and keeps the wheel off the column.

The Moss catalog calls out the circlip as being for an adjustable column, but the graphic looks like a non-adjustable column -- with a short spline like ours.

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

As I recall, my column looks like yours. The problem is that shoulder is not very high, and the female splines deform and ride up on it. And the wheel slips down if you tighten the nut firmly and then the hub interferes with the column. The snap ring I added to mine provided a firmer stop and keeps the wheel off the column.

The Moss catalog calls out the circlip as being for an adjustable column, but the graphic looks like a non-adjustable column -- with a short spline like ours.

Bill,

The circlip Moss calls out in there catalog is the one in the first two pictures below. The BN1/2 picture Moss has on their website is the same picture that is in my parts list.

I also found a picture of BN1 column (On Ebay completed listings - last picture). It looks like it is the same as the one that on the 100-6 / 3000 columns, with the collar to hold the wheel away from the housing. The only thing I can think of is that there is an issue with the bearings or spacers on the drive end of the column that has allowed the column to shift down just slightly. With the front wheels of the car off the ground, does your column turn very easily?

Thanks,
Duane

 

[Healey 100]

Duane:

Mine turns fine with the wheels in the air -- as long as the steering wheel is not dragging on the column. There is also no significant endplay in the shaft.

The picture I am talking about from the moss catalog is attached. This is clearly for a non-adjustable steering column, note the short spline on the end, not anything like the long spline you pictured. That little item #16 I think is supposed to snap into the space between the spline and the shoulder -- and provide a firm bottom for the steering wheel to brace on. But I have never seen one and it is definitely missing on my car and Live from NY's too.

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28890

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

Duane:

Mine turns fine with the wheels in the air -- as long as the steering wheel is not dragging on the column. There is also no significant endplay in the shaft.

The picture I am talking about from the moss catalog is attached. This is clearly for a non-adjustable steering column, note the short spline on the end, not anything like the long spline you pictured. That little item #16 I think is supposed to snap into the space between the spline and the shoulder -- and provide a firm bottom for the steering wheel to brace on. But I have never seen one and it is definitely missing on my car and Live from NY's too.

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28890

Bill,

I just spoke to Moss on the phone. He said part 16 is only the circlip for the adjustable steering. He stated that the only parts for the non-adjustable system at the wheel end are the nut and washer. Below is the original parts diagram from the BN2 through early BN6 non-adjustable wheel. As you can see it only shows the washer and nut.

It just looks like for some reason the column is not in the right position. I'll play with my spare non-adjustable column to see if I can duplicate the problem!

Thanks,
Duane

 

[pan]

This might be a silly question but I'll ask anyway: have you got an adjustable steering wheel on a non adjustable column?

 

[MikeAH100M]

Duane,
Just found this thread. I am having the same issue with my BN2. Did you ever get this resolved?

I had very tight steering. I repaired the almost seized idler assembly and replaced a bent stator tube which made a big difference. However. the steering was still a little tight when I tightened down the steering wheel bolt - it still turned but seemed too tight to me. My column has a "grommet" on the shaft below the steering wheel. It's listed as Moss part #682-215. Its beveled on the lower side and has slightly deformed the outer column. If you haven't found another answer, it might be that the steering wheel bolt just should not be torqued down too tight??

 

[Bob_Spidell]

re: "... it might be that the steering wheel bolt just should not be torqued down too tight??"

Presume you mean 'nut'? It's all that holds the steering wheel and hub--it's the hub that's likely giving you problems--onto the steering shaft. It should have a large, lockwasher--similar to an external star lockwasher but not quite, and N/A AFAIK--and the nut should be torqued well (IIRC, I had to buy a large deep socket to torque it). Did you by chance open up the steering box, from the front? If the shaft gets pulled forward a set of caged bearings can fall out of its race and jam up the works (ask me how I know).

 

[John Turney]

Duane,
Just found this thread. I am having the same issue with my BN2. Did you ever get this resolved?

I had very tight steering. I repaired the almost seized idler assembly and replaced a bent stator tube which made a big difference. However. the steering was still a little tight when I tightened down the steering wheel bolt - it still turned but seemed too tight to me. My column has a "grommet" on the shaft below the steering wheel. It's listed as Moss part #682-215. Its beveled on the lower side and has slightly deformed the outer column. If you haven't found another answer, it might be that the steering wheel bolt just should not be torqued down too tight??

View attachment 84028

Isn't that "grommet" supposed to go around the steering column where it goes through the firewall?