wheels, tires, and tubes

[Member 10617]

The tires that came with my 58 TR3 were Cooper tires. On the road, they sounded like snow tires or truck tires, so even though they were almost new, I decided to change tires.

A few days ago, I had Vredestein Sprint+ S80 Radial Steel Tubeless tires 1655R15 86S tires put on car.

Because I have wire wheels, tubes had to be installed with the new tires. The tubes from the Cooper tires were in very good condition, so they were used with the Vredestein tires.

The Vredestein tires make a HUGE difference. On the road, there is almost no noise at all.

But I had always been told that one should never use tubes with tubeless tires because wear and heat will destroy the tubes within a hundred miles or so(!) I have also read positive reports.

I would appreciate any feedback on this question.

Actually, I prefer steel wheels and would gladly swap out the wire wheels for good steel wheels. But I've read that they can be as much trouble as the wire wheels.

 

[Andrew Mace]

The big trouble with the steel wheels is finding a set that isn't bent or otherwise out-of-round. As for tubes with wire wheels, you really don't have much of a choice. I've heard lots of arguments on both sides, but my own (albeit limited) experience has been carefree and problem-free.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I use tubes in tubeless tires -- I don't think you have much choice if your wires require tubes. Never had a problem though I think a rule of thumb is to reduce the speed rating by one letter if tubes are used.

Steel wheels aren't bullet proof but I wouldn't characterize them as being as much trouble as wires. Biggest issue in the switch is the replacement of the wheel studs with the longer ones required for steel wheels.

 

[TR3driver]

The tubes do increase the heat generated in the tire, so they need to be derated a bit.

However, 86S indicates that those tires can carry 1168 pounds each, at 112 mph. Since your tire loading is only half that much, and you're not likely to spend much time at 112 mph, I don't think you'll have a problem at all.

Once you've got a set of steel wheels that are true, they are practically no trouble at all unless you hit a curb or something and knock them out of true. The problem is that there are so many of them around that have been abused and bent, which isn't always obvious until you get them mounted on something and spin them.

And while there are perhaps still some shops around that will try to straighten them, I believe it increases the chances of problems later (particularly cracks). I wouldn't run a straightened steel wheel unless you plan to only drive in parades.

 

[Member 10617]

Many thanks for all this good input.

A friend of mine told me that because my car is lightweight and I will not be driving very fast (I keep it to 50-55 mph), I shouldn't have any trouble with tubes in tubeless tires.

It is interesting to see the range of differing points of view on the Internet regarding tubes in tubeless tires.

I have also heard that steel wheels can crack and often are bent, and bent ones are very difficult if impossible to fix. So, I think I'll keep the wire wheels even though I prefer the look of steel wheels.

What the world of TR3 needs is a good, up-to-date manual for non-mechanic owners (just regular folks), a kind of TR3 for Dummies book. In lieu of such a publication, I have put together a notebook service manual and a notebook on technical matters for myself. I will add these responses to those books.

 

[Geo Hahn]

The combination of the Haynes (a how-to manual) and the Bentley (a reprint of the shop manual) works pretty well for me.

You might also pick up a copy of the TR3 'Practical Hints' which was basically the owners manual.

The first 2 are often on eBay and you'll save if you're willing to work with a greasy copy. All 3 are available as new reprints from Moss et al.

 

[Member 10617]

I have used Haynes, "Practical Hints," and Autobooks' TR3, TR3A Owner's Workshop Manual, but they tend to contradict eachother from time to time, the illustrations often do not match the descriptions, and for a rank beginner like myself, they often leave out very basic stuff. But if you cut and paste them and combine them with information off the Internet and from experienced people, you can get a pretty good "basic" manual.

BTW, George Hahn, My home once was Tucson, AZ. I have driven to Mt. Lemmon many times, often in 1962 with a 58 TR3 that I had back then. It's a great place.

 

[TR3driver]

Worth noting perhaps, there are different editions of "Practical Hints" (a very early version can be found in the Bentley reprint of the factory workshop manual).

It's worthwhile, IMO, to try to find the edition that matches your car, as the information given did change from time to time. The 4th edition might be right for your 58, unless it has the rheostat for the dash lights.

Although I have copies of all the others, the combination of Practical Hints and the factory workshop manual seem the most useful to me. Although the Haynes sometimes has better photos, it also has several misprints.

Also, the TR4 factory workshop manual is sometimes helpful, as it has a lot more details about the later brakes and so on. The TR3 manual was printed very early and never updated (AFAIK), so it lacks some details about the later cars.

 

[Member 10617]

I have noticed that there are different editions of "Practical Hints." This confused me a bit.