TR2/3/3A What is non magnetic metal and gets stuck in Pressure Relief Valve?

[DavidApp]

Remember you should be clamping the cylinder sleeves down to protect the Fig of "8" seals.
Not a real clear photo of it. I used big thick washers and pieces of pipe with head nuts on top.

David

 

[HighAltitudeTR3]

Doug to answer your question...

the only way the piece would get stuck in the PRV is accessed through the crank case. All oil from the head, galleys, and cylinders falls to the crank and then is sucked up. The galleys only go from the filter to the valves and cylinders and that oil is basically dropped off the piston, passed through the bearings and to the top of the engine. When the oil passes through the PRV it goes directly back in to the bottom end and eventually back in to the sump.

There are no non furrous parts in the oil pump except 1 washer. (Mentioned above). This is in good shape. If it weren't I think the bit of metal would be the least of my worries . In the crank case there are a few non furrous bits (bearings, thrust washers, basically high friction spots) these looked good.

Oil falls from the top of the engine through the spots you mentioned, however there are large openings between the tappets. The top of the tappet is about 2" below the pushrod valve and there is a void there that can collect and disperse of oil (and grab tappets forcing you to remove the entire cylinder head). There are large enough for any that that could pass through the tappet valley/valve to easily pass. I'd say something as big as a 1/2" maybe even 9/16" nut could pass.

 

[HighAltitudeTR3]

These are the holes...

 

[sp53]

Could someone have striped out that long bolt on PRV and chucks of that casting are finding their way back; that would help to explain the oil pressure connection that occurs with the bits, too easy.

 

[HighAltitudeTR3]

I didn't check that, the bolt and the washers looked good. I think I lost so much oil pressure because it's measured right there - and it was only at idle. At 2000 RPM it would go up to 70 lbs, but would be at 10lbs at idle.

 

[HighAltitudeTR3]

I will be putting everything back together the next couple of days. I've been waiting for parts from Moss and I've been cleaning every nook and cranny of every part removed. Never found what was producing the metal. I may just have to drive it see if anything turns up (in whatever form that may be). The only damage I really saw was scoring on the top of the piston from a spark plug that was obviously too long. Doesn't look like it was from my set, but I will double check before I put the cylinder head back on. the valves looked good. Head is flat.

I guess if anyone has any last minute advice or anything else to check while I have it open, I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks!!

 

[Deleted member 8987]

The more I think about this, the more I am convinced you didn't really have a problem of something coming from the sump through the "holed" pickup screen.
I had a cotter pin go through my pump (at least one) and it split my pump down the side...and scored the carp out of the rotor. If that part you showed went through the pump, A) would have been smashed, B) would have seriously destroyed the pump. Something in the area between the pump and the PRV had to be shedding something.

 

[HighAltitudeTR3]

Thanks for the response TOC. I can see small marks on the oil shaft where it looks like a piece may have gone through. But nothing in the oil supply mechanism is non furrous. Also, the only supply to the PRV is through the oil pump. So I guess it's possible that something has fallen from the shaft of the PRV above the pump (maybe when the dizzy was off at some point?). Either way, I have thoroughly checked the oil/dizzy/PRV mech and everything was intact.

 

[sp53]

I would still get a different PRV because there is not that many parts that are non-metallic and yours could be fractured inside somehow-somewhere.