TR2/3/3A Wet liner issues

[Stratty]

Cheers everyone.

I recently encountered a blown head gasket in my 1956 TR3 to find out the #4 wet liner protrudes above the block well past the specs causing the head to leak. Now that it's apart and I'm sure that's the issues. I can't seem to make it sit low enough (within spec) Can anyone shine some light as to how you remedied this problem?

Thanks
Chris

 

[TR3driver]

How high is it?

Have you tried clamping it back down? I've never had a liner come up when pulling the head, but I suppose it's possible. (I've also never had just one be too high.)

If its only a thousandth or two, you can try laying a sheet of fine sandpaper on a flat surface (like a sheet of glass) and rubbing the top of the liner on it. Keep turning the liner as you work, so you remove metal evenly.

But more than that probably calls for either a machine shop to cut it down or a replacement liner.

Another option might be to contact Mordy Dunst and see if he can make a "split" fig 8 gasket with different heights.

https://www.headgasket.com/

Or here's a way to make your own
https://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm#Fig8

 

[TomMull]

I assume you've checked for corrosion or debris on the liner seat in the block. I'd look with a strong light and a wire brush on a die grinder. Tom

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Chris

I presume the engine is all apart not just the head is off. With calipers you could check that the liner matches the others. Also make sure the faces that meet at the Figer of 8 gasket are totally clean.
If it is just the head that is off do not turn the engine with out clamping the liners down. It is possible to move them.

David

 

[CJD]

Do you have the history on the last rebuild?

The F08 works for a pair of cylinders, so the #3 would also be high if the F08 gasket was double up. I would suspect that at some time the block was decked to true it, and the associated sleeves were turned down to match. Later, if a sleeve were replaced without knowing it needed turning, it would cause your issue.

That’s the complicated guess.

The simple guess is that some debris is caught under the #4 liner and the block. A bad seal at the base of the sleeve could give similar symptoms to a blown head gasket.

 

[charleyf]

I will second Tom's comment about dirt or corrosion built up on the seat. I was amazed at how much "stuff" was on that seat when I cleaned the last block. If that seat was not cleaned it could easily have some build up where the figure 8 gasket is sitting on it to raise the whole liner. Clean it and make sure it is clean all of the way to the vertical wall. Some of that corrosion could be parts of the old figure 8 gasket.

 

[sp53]

I would guess the 2 problems are not totally related yet anyway, and when you pulled the head-- the gasket and liner came up with it. You will probably need to drop the pan and undue the rods and push the pistons up through the top. I would do it that way and leave the crank in and put some new rings on the pistons, unless you want to dive in and replace most everything as needed which is usually an expensive and time consuming job.

I have done just the rings and head gasket a few times leaving the crank and cam in with good results. It just depends what you plans are for the car because if you do a total job, the apron comes off and engine and trans should come out together. Moreover, I would try to see if there was a reason for the head gasket. Perhaps the heat of the weather combined with the age of the car and radiator cooling.

steve