TR6 TR6 Trailing arm question

[SCguy]

I'm finally getting around to repairing some new ebay trailing arms using Rick Patton's jig and KeenSerts. The directions look straight forward. My question is on installing the studs into the new KeenSert threads.

1. Should I use Locktight on the threads of the studs?

2. How or what is the best technique for installing the studs into the trailing arms? In other words. How tight do I install the studs? Do I put two nuts onto the end of them and then tork to 15lbs?

 

[Brosky]

Larry,

Check out BobbyD's excellent write up here: Trailing Arm Repair

 

[SCguy]

Paul,

how to seat the studs and whether to use locktight is not mentioned

 

[crj7driver]

Larry,

I used red loctite and torqued them down to 15lbs using 2 nuts. I questioned Rick Patton on using some sort of thread locker and he said it was not required but didn't see any issues with it. I chose overkill when at all possible.

If I remember correctly the torque value applied to the studs is a function of size and thread pitch so regardless of what it is screwed into the torque will be the same.

 

[SCguy]

Thanks! I just picked up my bead blasted trailing arms and the look good. With luck the jig will be on its way back to you next week.

 

[crj7driver]

Take your time, not in that big of a hurry. Also I backed the torque off 1-2 lbs because of the loctite acting as a lubricant. So 13-14 ft/lbs. But depends on how accurate the torque wrench is, so who know where it really is. You will be able to tell when the stud seats, don't go too far past that. I did a little destructive testing of the keensert and the stud will start to destroy the inner fine pitch threads on the keensert if you get carried away. Let me know how it works out.

 

[BobbyD]

Just because you have the Keen-Serts don't over tighten the hub nuts. Rick's directions tell you to stay with the factory specs as they'll hold it all together just fine.

One thing I learned AFTER I did mine was that studs/bolts should never be bottomed out in their hole. It's an excellent article that's posted here and and, in part, states:

"One of the main guidelines in designing fastener joints is that the length of thread engagement should be long enough so that the bolt will break rather than strip the threads in the tapped hole if the joint is overloaded. It's generally easier and more cost effective to replace a broken bolt than to have to repair or replace the part with the tapped hole."

Makes sense to me!

 

[tdskip]

Thanks! I just picked up my bead blasted trailing arms and the look good. With luck the jig will be on its way back to you next week.

Hey! Did you blast them or farm it out? Any pictures?

 

[SCguy]

They look nice and the job is done. Funny, for as easy as the job actually was, I had made it into a big deal which lead to a lot of procrastination.

 

[tdskip]

They look nice and the job is done. Funny, for as easy as the job actually was, I had made it into a big deal which lead to a lot of procrastination.

I know that feeling...

Any tips to pass along?

 

[MDCanaday]

The easy part is done,now find an alignment guy who will take the time to set the camber/toe/thrust angles!!!Shop carefully,its important.Dont forget my quick fix of the extra holes in the frame rail,use bolts and nylock nuts.Keeps out the water you dont need inside your frame....
MD(mad dog)