TR4/4A TR4 Suspension Rebuild

[bpangburn]

Getting ready to help my dad with the front suspension rebuild on his 63 TR4. Have been scouring the forums on a good writeup and there seem to be several excellent writeups on other models, but haven't found one for the TR4 (checked the wiki too).

1. does anyone know of a good writeup on the TR4?
2. not knowing other Triumphs very well, is there a writeup for another model that would act as a good guide (e.g. is a TR4 suspension more like a 3/3A or a 6 or a completely different beast?)

Have done a full rebuild on the front suspension for my 72 OpelGT which has a nasty/dangerous transverse spring so I'm familiar with the dangers of springs, etc. and the general terms of suspension work, but I'm not a British car mechanic and any guidance is much appreciated.

-Brian

 

[TR3driver]

The TR4 front suspension is almost identical to the TR3; procedures should be nearly identical. Dig around on this forum, there's lots of material here. The shop manual also has a good writeup as I recall. The 4A-6 are rather more different than the TR3.

Buy or build a replica of the factory spring compressor, that runs up through the middle of the spring and clamps it between the tower and the spring pan. Very safe and secure compared to general purpose compressors that try to grab the spring directly.

 

[TR3driver]

Another view

 

[TR4nut]

Welcome to the forum. The rebuild is pretty straightforward, I think - just some quick thoughts on what to watch for:

1) Same as Randall, get or fabricate a good spring compressor.
2) Bushings on the a-arms for the lower trunnion mounts are press fit and require reaming for final fit. RevingtonTR supposedly sells oilite bushings that don't require reaming but I have no personal experience.
3) Be careful when you buy the parts - as a 63, my guess is you have late style trunnions with 3 degrees castor. Very early trunnions have 0 degrees, same as on a TR3. Also, there is a mixed bag on quality with suppliers. For example, the outer lock washers have been problematic so you may want to try and save what you have if possible.
4) On reassembly, don't fully tighten down the upper inner wishbone mounts until you've put weight back down on the suspension.

The TR6 is a bit different but other than the trunnions mostly applicable. If I remember right, one of our forum members, Dale (aka tinster), wrote up a how to on the TR6 but I'm not sure of its location - should be able to find it with a search though.

Randy

 

[TR3driver]

2) Bushings on the a-arms for the lower trunnion mounts are press fit and require reaming for final fit.

Right. However, a fixed 5/8" "chucking" reamer will do fine, about $15 from Enco
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=331-1140&PMPXNO=945503&PARTPG=INLMK32

 

[Guest]

Hello Brian and welcome to the forum. New Roads, eh? Do you know one Dr. Eddie Hebert? Old friend and classmate of mine. I saw a really gorgeous TR4 in the New Orleans car show a few years ago, from New Roads. That wouldn't be yours, would it.
Anyway, I have a nice spring compressor I bought from The Roadster Factory for my TR6, should work on the TR4. You are welcome to use it if you can drive down to pick it up one day. I am 50 minutes below Lafayette from you. Good luck with the rebuild. Pretty straight forward. Buy the best parts you can get from the usual sources.

 

[TR4nut]

I saw a really gorgeous TR4 in the New Orleans car show a few years ago, from New Roads. That wouldn't be yours, would it.

Bill- you mean this one?

Naw, can't be, that one is gorgeous, it doesn't look like it needs any suspension work!

Beautiful car Brian, definitely an inspiration for my car!

Randy

 

[bpangburn]

Thanks everyone. That's my dad and his car in the above photo from the 2006 New Orleans show. Eddie Hebert is a friend of ours.

Thanks for the offer on the spring compressor, but we purchased one a while back for the project.

Will try to take lots of photos and document the project.

 

[bpangburn]

Starting reassembly on the first side and have a question regarding the reaming of the lower trunion mounts. What is to be reamed...the a-arms themselves so that the bushing will press in easier OR the bushing once pressed into the a-arm? Somewhere I read that the reaming takes place after you press the bushing, but it appears that the bushing is grooved on the inside for grease distribution and if you go to work on it with a reaming tool, you'd wear the channel out. Also, any recommendations on using the 5/8 chucking reamer? Should this be done with a drill press?

Thanks for your continued guidance.

 

[TR4nut]

Welcome back.. You ream the bushing after it is pressed into the a arm. The grooves will still be there, you won't be taking that much metal off in the reaming operation.

I'm embarrassed to admit it, but I did the operation with a chucked reamer and a hand drill - it worked but I ruined one bushing in the process. Safest would be to take it to a shop and pay a few bucks for the operation, or slowly do it by hand, or use a press.

 

[TR3driver]

The grooves will still be there, you won't be taking that much metal off in the reaming operation.

I clamped a 'chucking' reamer in the bench vise, and turned the arm around it. WOrked out well for me, YMMV.

 

[TR4]

I had a shop remove the old bushings, insert the new ones and ream them for a nice slide fit on the trunnions. Cost was $40 for all 4 arms.

 

[TR4nut]

Brian-

Just curious, but does your dad's car have Houston roots? His car reminds me of a TR4 that one of our club members sold several years ago. Either way, beautiful car.

Randy

 

[bpangburn]

Yes. The car was from Houston (believe his name is Vern) and then sold to someone in AL. Purchased it there after it was basically left outside for several years with just a cover. Paint was in tough shape. The original owner has see the car since we've worked on it at both a show in Houston and a regional in Jenks, OK.

 

[bpangburn]

As promised, here are some photos. Almost done with the drivers side as shown in the first three photos.

https://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=8554&l=e4f7c&id=1306791222

 

[prb51]

I used the reamer and it worked perfectly if you take your time. I put the lower arm(s) in a vice and started the reamer slowly by hand periodically backing it out to reoil and remove metal swarf. Once the reamer is properly started I attached a vise grip to the reamer for ease of turning and pressing.
You can knock the old bushings out with a slighty undersize socket but the new bushings should be pressed/wacked in place with a bushing drift that will not disfigure the lip.

 

[prb51]

I just noted the date..duh, great job, is that your garage!? What a fantastic work area.

 

[bpangburn]

Its my shop, but my dad and I share it. He actually gets to use it a lot more than I do, which I'm happy to see. Its a 40'x80' with 40'x16' carved out into a bar/pub with a full bath and a bunk room.

Here are some other pictures of the shop:
https://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1907&l=97a1a&id=1306791222

 

[Moseso]

Yikers! What a palace!
I am completely <span style="color: #33CC00"><span style="font-size: 14pt">green</span></span> with envy.

 

[bpangburn]

Well rebuilding the front end turned into a full restoration of the undercarriage.

First five photos from the link below show the finished product:
https://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=8554&id=1306791222