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TR4/4A TR4 Fuel Pump

KVH

Darth Vader
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I bought a new fuel pump and the instructions warned that it must be installed with the "insulator," a thick piece of plastic that fits between the pump and the gasket. I don't see one anywhere, not in the box, not in the manual, not on my car with the old pump.

I assume that's for another car?
 

14dna

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Are the pumps identical?
Was there any spacer on the old pump?
Is the lever the same length on both pumps?

If there is a difference in any of these things, then you will have to do some adjustments.

Hope this helps.

P.S. what I'm trying to say is, if they are the same and no spacer was required before, it will not need one now.
If they are not the same, then you might need a spacer.

Dave :savewave:
 

glemon

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My Vicotoria British Catalog lists a gasket, but not a spacer. I would not take that as the last word though, for a mechanical pump like this one would the distance from the pump to the driving cam would be critical, one would think, worst case it needs a spacer and without one you will get a bind and break the pump, 2nd worst it will not have the right range of motion and it will not pump well or at all and or the life of the thing will be shorter.

Maybe you can measure the distance from the cam to the mounting point on the engine and see if the pump is in well within its range or pumping motion at this distance?
 

TR3driver

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Certainly the original pumps did not require such a spacer; and I've never seen an aftermarket pump that did.

BUT, that does not mean that one does not exist ! I'd contact the people who sold you the pump, and complain about the missing spacer. Since the potential for damage is high, I'd want to get a statement in writing if they tell you no spacer is required.
 
T

Tinster

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Kentville-

I have recently had seven different mechanical fuel pumps
in and out of my 1968 TR250 block before I got one that
worked correctly and produced the correct psi of fuel.
Paul Rego's rebuilt OEM pump.

The good Lord knows, I'm not claiming to be a fuel pump
expert but all 7 pumps fit into the engine block
opening (without a spacer). All 7 pumps required a gasket.

Look at the new pump side by side with the old pump.
If they look real similar- try to install the new pump.
If it installs easily you probably have a winner.
If the psi tests out good- you've got a keeper.

Even this know nuthin' mechanic is able to do fuel pumps.

BTW: Make sure you install a hard wired, electric fuel
pump as backup. My experience has been the mechanical
fuel pumps have a high failure rate and give no notice
they are about to fail.

regards,

dale.

backupsystems.jpg
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Dale- What you really need to do with that pump is finish the plumbing on it and install an electric switch that changes the flow direction to the electric one.
That way you can switch on the fly.
 
T

Tinster

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DNK said:
Dale- What you really need to do with that pump is finish the plumbing on it and install an electric switch that changes the flow direction to the electric one.
That way you can switch on the fly.

<span style="color: #660000">Don,
the hard switch is in front of your eyes! I've re-plumbed the hoses
so I can make the switch over in under 2 minutes.
The electric pump works flawlessly but noisy.

d</span>
 
R

RonMacPherson

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Cuz, isolate the pump with rubber spacers. As mentioned in the past MB's from the 60's through the mid 90's use a little rubber spacer with stud on each end.They used them for air cleaner mounts, fuel pump mounts, etc.. They used to cost around 80 centavos each. Put the stud in one end, back it up with a nut. Mount the pump on the other end's stud, while making sure their is a ground wire going from the pump to the body stud. Lots quieter...
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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:iagree:
Or, you can accomplish the same thing with a simple bracket and some rubber grommets.

But that pump doesn't need a ground wire added, just keep the black wire connected as you have it.
 
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