Hi,
Most of those cooling fans put a pretty heavy load on the electrical system. Many use over 10 amps. Some of the larger sizes (16" and up) can use 15 or more amps.
Your stock generator puts out 22 amps, at best. Plus, a generator does not produce very much power at lower rpms, not nearly as strongly as an alternator.
So, probably half the output is now going to the cooling fan and, yes,- if the generator is sub-par, electrical connections are less than ideal, or you are using any other electrical devices on the car, it's quite possible the fan will gradually draw down the battery. The engine, itself, will use some power, too. Add it all up, subtract any weakness in the system and it's marginal if the generator output will be adequate for use with a cooling fan.
I ended up installing an alternator. In addition to a 14" cooling fan, I've got halogen headlights, halogen running lights and an electric fuel pump to be concerned about (but no radio, no heater/fan).
An alternator will not look stock, It's not a straight swap, and most common sizes are about the same weight as the original generator. However, consider that there were special order TR4 with alternators (police specials! just imagine!), and I'd bet the factory racing TRs were mostly fitted with alternators, especially the rally and Lemans cars with all the auxiliary light!
I installed a Delco 7127-3. It's rated at 60 amps, but the one I got has tested to 76 amps. It's a rebuilt unit and cost $50-60 (without a core to exhange). Also, a two wire "pigtail" was needed to make connections to the wiring harness. That's still not done (actually, the entire car has no harness in it, at present).
The Delco 7127-3 is one of the most common and easily installed alternators.
First, remove the front generator mounting spacer and replaced it with approx. 6" long 3/8" bolt. Over that, a approx. 4" long tubular spacer needs to be fitted to go between the front and rear "ears" of the original generator bracket. This provides a solid mounting point for the bottom/front bracket on the alternator and, at the rear/bottom of the alternator, a tab can be welded onto the 4" spacer to accomodate the mounting bolt.
On the top/front the original generator upper/adjusting bracket can be used, but needs to be straightened to align properly (fits behind the mounting lug on the alternator, alternatively, bend the bracket more and fit it in front of the mounting lug). The bottom side of the adjusting/top mount bracket needed a little bit of filing to keep it from rubbing against the case of the alternator. Also, at the bottom/front, about 3/8" of the cast mounting lug was removed from the backside, to move the alternator back so the pulleys alighn properly.
This particular Delco has an internal regulator, so the external one now on your car isn't needed, but might be retained and disabled, used as a connecting point, to maintain a stock appearance.
Another thing needed is either a heavier wire run to the starter solenoid (to handle the higher current output) or a second wire that runs parallel to the original and increases the circuit's load capacity.
You will need to convert the car to negative ground, also (primarily just a matter of swapping the battery leads and swapping the wires on the back of the Amp meter, behind the dash).
Another consideration is the pulley on the alternator. It will come with a narrow pulley that won't work with the original, wide belt. There are wide, conversion pulleys around, occasionally on eBay. That is, if you want to keep the wide belt for original appearance. (I swapped to narrow pulleys and a harmonic dampener at the crankshaft pulley. That's an alternative.)
All this sounds like alot, but it really isn't bad.
You could do the changes in stages. Such as converting the car to negative ground first, then adding the alternator later.
Hope this helps!
Cheers!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L