TR2/3/3A TR2 rear axle disassembly

[carpecursusII]

I have an original TR2 axle that I am trying to rebuild. I have removed the brakes, diff cover and one of the hubs. It was my understanding that the half shaft should just slide out the side but it seems that mine wont budge. I am able to get about a 1/4" of movement but that is all. What am I missing here?

 

[CJD]

When you say that you removed the brakes...you do mean the brake back plate with the 4 bolts? If so, the axle should come out, but it may be reluctant after 60 years. There is likely some grunge in the bearing bore of the axle tube that's grabbing it. I am sure Randall will have a better idea, but I would be inclined to gently tap it outward with a wood block or rubber mallet. Not hard, as the bearing is taking the load of the tapping.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I'm not sure you needed to remove the brakes (but no harm done). This is my TR4 so it has 6 bolts instead of 4 but I think the basic set-up is the same:

Can you move in & out for that 1/4" that you have gotten -- or is that really tight?

 

[vivdownunder]

With weak Lockheed diffs the inner axle splines tend to twist slightly prior to the axle snapping. If so the inner axle spline might be grabbing in the diff. Or it could be just the end bearing grabbing in the axle housing. A sliding hammer attached to the hub, or end thread if the hub is off, usually frees it.

Viv

 

[TR3driver]

I am sure Randall will have a better idea,

Sorry, I never got that far into the only TR I've owned with the early axle.

The 4 bolts and bearing housing should be the only things holding it in. Hard for me to guess whether it's the splines that are binding, or the bearing. But if some tapping on the flange doesn't walk it out, I would try Viv's suggestion next. HF sells a slide hammer for the purpose, which doesn't look very good but I haven't managed to tear mine up yet with some pretty determined pounding.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-16-pc-60327.html

On the Buick I bought it for, the outer bearing races were welded to the housing (a result of the bearing failing and getting hot). I wound up having to cut and break both of them to get them out. Hopefully that's not your problem!

 

[TomMull]

When you say that you removed the brakes...you do mean the brake back plate with the 4 bolts? If so, the axle should come out, but it may be reluctant after 60 years. There is likely some grunge in the bearing bore of the axle tube that's grabbing it. I am sure Randall will have a better idea, but I would be inclined to gently tap it outward with a wood block or rubber mallet. Not hard, as the bearing is taking the load of the tapping.

I did a lockheed axle last summer. No Pics or notes but, as I remember, the backing plate holds the bearing which in turn is pressed onto the shaft. Also, as I remember, it took a few gentle taps with the slider but the axle and bearing came right out. Tom

 

[carpecursusII]

Well, I went out this morning and put a block to the back side of the hub and tried some brute force. Nothing happened. I am worried about applying too much force on an already weak system. If I am understanding correctly, the outer bearing is pressed onto the shaft and then slid into the axle? If that is the case wouldn't I have to remove the outer oil seal for everything to come out?

 

[2long]

You may want to see if the opposite side slides out how it should. If it does, Viv's thought about the twist damage may be the answer. Here is a picture of the twist effect on the inner end of my Halfshaft when it failed.

Dan

 

[CJD]

Well, I went out this morning and put a block to the back side of the hub and tried some brute force. Nothing happened. I am worried about applying too much force on an already weak system. If I am understanding correctly, the outer bearing is pressed onto the shaft and then slid into the axle? If that is the case wouldn't I have to remove the outer oil seal for everything to come out?

If you have removed the 4 bolts that sandwich the brake backing plate to the axle shaft, then the outer seal will come out with the axle/hub assembly. The key are the 4 bolts around the axle, which hold the plate, which in turn holds the seal and bearing in place. When it slides out, you get the hub, plate with seal, axle, and bearing. The bearing and hub will be tightly fixed to the axle. The plate and seal will be loosely contained between the bearing and hub.

 

[carpecursusII]

I have the four bolts and brake mounting plate loose on both sides and get the same result. I will try again next week and do a little work on the seal, they don't feel loose enough to just slide out.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Usually placing the brake drum on the studs BACKWARDS, and the nuts on couple of turns BACKWARDS makes for a decent "hillybilly" axle puller.
Unless you have spline twist as stated earlier.

 

[carpecursusII]

OK, I figured out what my problem was. I could not see the retaining plate below all the dirt and oil. I got that off and the axle came out with a little persuasion. My question now is, can I fit the later oil seal in the early axle with hopes that it will be better. Moss parts #520-110 and 520-120. Stock would be the first but is the second one better and will it fit?

 

[CJD]

After this many years, any part that can be consolidated down to one has already been consolidated. If they are listed as different seals...I don't think they are interchangeable. My Lockheed difs are on the rebuild schedule in 2 months...I'll know more then!

 

[TomMull]

I have the four bolts and brake mounting plate loose on both sides and get the same result. I will try again next week and do a little work on the seal, they don't feel loose enough to just slide out.

Hmm? Don't know if I understand. You do not need to remove the seal or the bearing at this point. Remove the shaft, hub, bearing and seal as a unit. The bearing will require a strong puller or better yet a press to remove.
Tom