Suggestions - Need Help

[vping]

First post on this list & just getting started on the midget. Please refer to link:
https://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1535177
Can everyone suggest where to begin & what products I should use?
I have a 1971 parts car that I can use the panels from or should I buy new. Moss, VB, Steecraft?
I will be chemically stripping off paint but want to media blast other areas. Need suggestions on what to buy.
I have ordered a POR catalog but you all could save me the trouble & tell me what to buy.
I have seen photos on other sites of a silver brush on paint that was applied to the seams after or before welding. I can refer you to the website but want to know what it might be.
I have a MIG CO2 setup and am determined to get this finished. I want it as original as possible but not a trailer queen. Any & all replys (you can be very long winded if need be) are welcome.
I have just about all the books I could find about Midgets & MGs and am in the local club. I am really looking for direction & some help. If any one is located in my area you can email me.
Thanks and this is s great site.
vping@optonline.net

 

[Bugeye58]

Vping, let me begin by welcoming you to our little corner of the world. Many of us here have done full restorations, so information and techniques should be readily available. Having said that, let me add that you have got a major undertaking on your hands. Before buying anything, I would get the car totally stripped of paint. I don't think I'd bother with the chemical stripper, just have the whole thing blasted.
From your pictures, I can see there is a considerable amount of rust that needs to be addressed.
You may want to consider building a fixture to hold everything in place as you cut out the bad and weld in the good. The Bentley book gives relevant chassis measurements to use as a reference.
The silver paint you refer to is a high zinc content primer, that allows you to weld through. It protects the metal on the inside of the seams.
I would imagine that your post will soon be answered in depth, but feel free to email me with any questions you may have.
You can find my address in my profile.
Jeff

 

[ChrisS]

First off welcome.
Out of curiosity when was the first picture taken? It doesn't look that bad. Are all those photos of the project car or are there pics of the parts car in there as well? You've got a lot of work there, and I agree with Jeff about blasting.

 

[tony barnhill]

Welcome 'vping' (sorry, didn't see your name)....after you've gotten all the drivetrain off the car & its disassembled, before you take the body to be blasted, put a metal brace across the top of the door opening in case you lose metal around the "A" post.

 

[vping]

The car did not seem that bad when I got it. I should have looked it over more carefully but I did not. I have had it for about 5-6 years I it sat outside until I had the garge built. It now resides inside & I can begin my work. All pictures are of the same car. The parts car is a red SWA and only partially visable a the rear of the Green one.

I already have the doors off & the openings welded with steel angles the A posts are in good shape with only slight rust.
Should I remove the Front & rear suspension? If I do how do I get it mobile for blasting. Does anyone recommend blasting it myself and if you do what should I buy to do that at home.

 

[jcatnite]

I've not attempted a spridget yet but I have blasted the tubs on a few other cars. My advice to you is to have it done or if you know someone with a dedicated blasting booth they will let you borrow to go that route. The small blasters that you can buy are more of a pain than anything else. Plus they make one heck of a mess. If you are only spot blasting I might consider it but if you are planning to do the whole tub there are plenty of shops that do that for reasonable rates. I would not recommend doing it yourself unless you have access to a dedicated booth. Remember that the blasting media is not exactly kind to your lungs and make sure that you have a good respirator before you start. Paper painter's masks won't cut it.
JC

 

[tony barnhill]

I saw somewhere a photo of a body dolly a guy had built out of 4x4's & big steel wheels - had his stripped body on top of it.

 

[SilentUnicorn]

this here looks pretty neat, attach i was thinking of trying this with my A tub. (pic lifted from here i dont recall who's it was)

mark

 

[JamesWilson]

[ QUOTE ]
this here looks pretty neat, attach i was thinking of trying this with my A tub. (pic lifted from here i dont recall who's it was)
mark

[/ QUOTE ]

The frame is one made by John Loftus for his Big Healey.

Similar contraptions were discussed in the tools forum here:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...p;page=0#139203

A couple there are for sprites/midgets in the post I contributed.

 

[msoylemez]

[ QUOTE ]
Should I remove the Front & rear suspension? If I do how do I get it mobile for blasting. Does anyone recommend blasting it myself and if you do what should I buy to do that at home.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi, I just had the same situtation with a 58 bugeye that I am in the midst of doing a nut and bolt restoration on. I ended up doing this: removed everything (inc front and rear suspension) and lowered it on to a furniture dolly--it was only 3 ft by 2 ft with 5 inch diameter plastic wheels and a rope attached--but it worked perfectly to wheel around--sprite tubs are pretty light. I then rented a Uhaul open trailer 6x12 (5x10 works as well I think-just measure). A friend and I rolled the car to the end of the trailer, used jacks and some old fashion muscle to tip toe the body onto the trailer, and away I went. Once at the blaster, they put the tub on a frame they had there--most good blasters will have them. Once blasted, I took it in the same fashion to my body man where he applied the etching primer and has started work.

Problem with this method, once the body and paint work are all done, probably don't want to be transporting this way. Therefore, I think I am simply going to take my front and rear suspension to where my body guy is and just spend a few hours hooking up things there once he's all done to get a rolling chasis. Total cost so far of transporting car: about $50.

 

[vping]

Next step is pulling the engine but I have to see if Santa is bringing me that hoist I asked for. Then I need to decide if I wlll pull off all suspension and bring the shell to blast or bring a rolling chassis to blast.
Theres a great idea on another site for a rotisserie using 2 engine stands and some steel but then again I think the easiest might be to just roll it in and out. Then I cannot do the underside. argh!
Can 2 guys lift a shell and put it in the back of a trailer?
My attempt will be to do all of the paint & bodywork myself so I would need to get to the underside anyway.

 

[tony barnhill]

Were you closer, I've a car roterisserie I'm selling - holds either a B or Midget

 

[msoylemez]

One more thing vping---just bought an engine hoist from Pep Boys for $109 (after rebate)....not bad for what you are getting...may not need to/want to wait for St. Nick after all...

 

[SilentUnicorn]

yes two guys can load a shell, no problem.

mark

 

[Matthew E. Herd]

I've muscled a spitfire shell around with a friend. It's probably a bit lighter (no frame attached), but I wouldn't imagine that a spridget tub should be too awful bad.

 

[Simon TR4a]

I am somewhat shocked by the contrast between the very attractive first picture and the rust that was concealed within.
However it is a fairly simple car to work on, everything is available at comparatively reasonable prices, you may find some good used panels or repair sections, and it is a great project for someone with patience and a clear goal in mind.
I would enlarge the first picture and hang it in the garage for inspiration!
Good luck, Simon.