TR2/3/3A looking for suggestions on putting engine back in

[2billydavies]

hi guys..... need some suggestions on what's worked for everyone in the past. almost done my first rebuild, getting ready to put the engine back in. was wondering if I should put the engine back in and then install the head or should I put the he@d back on and torque it while it's on the engine stand? what's easiest/best? I took the head off before I pulled the engine but not so sure what I should do now.... and speaking of this.... would it be easier to put the transmission in first and then the engine or should I put the tyranny on first then lower the entire thing in? thanks for the help.... saved me a lot of headaches/learning curves along the way!

 

[CJD]

I always do anything OUT of the car that I can, before installing...unless you have a reason not to. Head and tranny on, so you can see well and reach everything easily.

 

[Perrymip]

If you have the front apron and radiator removed, then you might want to take advantage of the manual's suggestion to install the engine and attached transmission as a single unit. You will need to be able to tilt the assembly to accomplish this smoothly. Some caution is needed not to bend the throttle linkage, if that's in place. This procedure saves lots of agony mating the engine to the transmission with all the fasteners.

After the assembly is more or less in place, the engine mounts (including the rear mount) come next, then the other pieces: manifolds, carbs, generator, starter, and so on.

I would certainly install the head on the block before any of this. You don't want to expose the inside of the engine while installing.

 

[TR3driver]

+1 on mate engine, head & gearbox before installation. Also starter & generator. But I leave the manifolds until afterwards.

Don't forget the ground strap.

 

[KVH]

If I do that with my TR4, aren't I likely to have my transmission hitting my garage floor before I then get it snugged up to the mount? It just seems the angle and clearance will be an issue. No?

 

[pa297pass]

If I do that with my TR4, aren't I likely to have my transmission hitting my garage floor before I then get it snugged up to the mount? It just seems the angle and clearance will be an issue. No?

FWIW KVH, I pulled the engine and transmission as a unit on my TR4 with no issues. I had the front wheels of the car raised enough so the legs of the engine hoist would go under the car, but that's all. Like the TR3, be sure to watch the throttle pedal cross shaft if it is installed. I have seen so many (mine included) that are bent upward from engine/trans removal/installation.

I do plan on putting the engine and transmission back in as a unit as well, hopefully soon!

Matt

 

[tdskip]

If I do that with my TR4, aren't I likely to have my transmission hitting my garage floor before I then get it snugged up to the mount? It just seems the angle and clearance will be an issue. No?

Don't forget:

1) You can jack-up the rear of the car for additional maneuvering options
2) An Oberg tilting lift is a huge plus

 

[Marvin Gruber]

+2 like everyone else says about putting back with engine and trans together. Do leave the the shifter lever off or better yet, the whole shifter top. You won't have to tilt as much. If the head is off, go ahead and put it in with it off. Depends on your engine stand working height. That works for TR3 and 4.

marv

 

[TR3TR6]

I put my engine in first with the head on it and then attached the transmission, only because I didn't want to take the front apron off. I think it was a lot harder especially getting the transmission attached. If you have the apron off, I would go with what the other guys recommend. An extra person would probably be a big help putting it in.

 

[2billydavies]

awesome. great stuff.... thanks guys. I dont want to mention this, but when removing the engine in had already bent the linkage rod that goes across the top of the firewall. didnt even see while hoisting it out. not bad.... minor tweak... i just thought it was somewhat funny as I read all of your posts above about removing that thing before removing the engine. thanks a ton!

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Never imagined the thought of trying to put or pull an engine from a TR3 with the front apron on. Talk about the hard way.

Marv

 

[TR3TR6]

Marv, removing the engine and putting it back in wasn't the hardest part. I used an engine lift and one of those tilt things and did it by myself. The hard part was attaching the transmission. I couldn't pull the apron by myself. Sometimes when you need help. it just isn't available.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Terry,
a properly fitted apron is a piece of cake to remove but whatever works. Do you know the trick of using 4 inch studs on engine to slide the trans on?
marv

 

[TR3TR6]

Marv, I do now, but I didn't then; that was quite a few years ago.

 

[shoopal]

I ran my motor on the floor so I could fix leaks while I had the chance. It paid off when I discovered a small seep between the plate and the block. I had used gasket cement and the plate was bent a bit. Using Permatex and really glopping it on fixed the problem.
By the way the picture doesn't show the flywheel. I was checking on rear seal leak after running. Happily there was none. The Alexander rear seal really worked well. Homemade muffler made from scraps since my wife complained about the noise.

 

[Chuck Murphy]

Marvin. Could you please explain the 4 inch stud procedure for installing the tranny (with OD) on the engine when the engine is still in the car. How many and at which locations do you install the studs? Are the studs 4 inch in total length or extend 4 inches from the engine?
Thanks, Chuck

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Chuck,
The way I prep for installing trans. There are three short studs on the rear of engine at the top. Some may have been changed out over the years for bolts. If you do have three, remove the outside two studs. You can leave the center one if you have one there. Find or buy two 4" bolts the same size, preferrely with only about an inch of threads. Cut the head off of each bolt and slightly round them off. Screw both into back of engine where you removed the original short ones. Now when you install the trans, these two studs will align the trans and allow to slide into place. It also holds it up so you are not in as much off a strain. You Will still have to turn the tailshaft some to engage the input shaft into the clutch plate as you slide it in. Remove and keep 4 " studs for time.

Marv

 

[Chuck Murphy]

Marv. Thanks for answer to my question.
Chuck