TR2/3/3A Steering Box Adjusting Screw

[Geo Hahn]

Two questions about the Steering Box Adjusting Screw:

1. What does the tip look like? i.e. is it flat or rounded or what?

2. What are the threads?

In case you're wondering why I don't just take it out and look at it -- I no longer have the original part.

Many years ago I went with a modified lid and adjuster that had a spring-loaded pin - the idea (and it worked) was to allow tighter adjustment at the middle w/o any binding at the ends.

Thing is, that pin seems to have failed. The source of the adjustable model required my original box lid as a core, so presumably the hole for the adjustable pin is larger than for the original pin.

My plan it to make a solid pin from a bolt but I am unsure what shape to make the tip. Also, in a quick check at the hardware store, the only suitable size bolt they had was Grade 8 - I assume that would not be a good idea?

Thanks for any sympathy or advice.

The part may be repairable (isn't everything?) but the builder is on his way to VTR so it will be a bit before I know (and darned if I can figure out what holds the works together).

 

[mallard]

This came out of a TR3B box, It's yours if you want it.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Thanks for the offer but I suspect that the original screw may be smaller than the one I am using now -- that spring-loaded version has a diameter of 9/16".

At least I see the end of the original is simply flat.

 

[TR3driver]

Original diameter was less than 1/2", so knowing those threads isn't going to help (unless you want to just replace the whole top cover). If you do need the thread size, let me know and I'll go check.

Grade 8 would probably be OK, but might wear quicker than the original. An ordinary SHCS would be plenty hard though, I think. Either way, you'll want to grind the end flat and square.

 

[JSabah]

What is wrong with Grade 8. It is stronger than 5 and plain zinc coated. I use grade 8 often....so I was wondering what your thoughts were.

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

It is simply flat, very smooth, and presses against the cam. The proper setting of the tension is important. I set mine while the box was removed from the car, and nothing connected to it. I even removed the rubber bushing at the shaft connection end (nearest the split coupler) so I could feel the 'tight' spot in the very center of the cam. If the tension is too much, steering will be difficult. It the tension is too low, steering will wander at speed.

Only last week I scrapped a few of those top plates with the adjusting screws. -But I still have enough parts to make another good steering box. And I even have a spare plate with adjusting screw, that I would be happy to send you. PM me an address, and I'll get it in the mail. I've been moving the past few weeks, but I verified the location of my steering box parts in the garage, so you are in luck.

Jer

 

[Geo Hahn]

Thanks for -

Randall confirming that the original screw is smaller than the adjustable one I have (and my current cover requires) and you're correct that just knowing that is enough, don't need the threads detail.

Jer - The offer of a top plate. Rather than have you part with something I might not need I'll wait and see if the current set-up can be repaired. I do like the spring-loaded adjuster (I'm thinking Healeys may have been designed that way) so if I can keep it I will.

As for not using Grade 8 -- that screw presses against the rocker shaft inside the steering box. It is well lubed but if something is going to wear I would rather it be the easily replaceable screw and not the shaft. I now have a Grade 5 that I will dress and use.

 

[CJD]

Unfortunately the wear occurs on the steering peg and worm...and not so much the adjuster and gear.

 

[TR3driver]

I do like the spring-loaded adjuster (I'm thinking Healeys may have been designed that way) so if I can keep it I will.

Kind of a shame, I was looking for your "before and after" impression. It has always seemed to me that the spring-loaded plunger solves a non-problem (the force of turning the wheels will take up any play off-center), while increasing steering effort. And in a hard turn, I suspect the spring compresses anyway, making the steering less precise. Certainly the only cars I've driven with the spring-loaded plungers were much worse than my TR3A (and now TR3) without it. But maybe they had other problems.

Maybe we can try each other's cars if I ever make it out your way again.

 

[karls59tr]

The part may be repairable (isn't everything?) but the builder is on his way to VTR so it will be a bit before I know (and darned if I can figure out what holds the works together).



I'd like to try that spring loaded adjuster on my 3. Who is the builder and how could I get in touch with him?
Also....How much play in the steering wheel is normal when the whole steering system is properly set up? In other words how many inches from dead center should I be able to move the steering wheel to one side before the wheels actually move? I've seen a lot of "3"s where it's a couple of inches either way. I've installed the Delrin bushings in the drag link and replaced the idler arm and that has made a significant improvement. Now I'd like to dial in the steering box as much as possible without having to replace the whole unit.:eagerness:
Karl

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Who is the builder and how could I get in touch with him?

I believe the person who built mine no longer offers them (don't know why) but Revington still has them. Definitely not cheap @ $100 + shipping.

https://www.revingtontr.com/shop/pr...fgth3us1a4hcb&CarType=TR3&ProductID=RTR3075LK

You owe it to yourself to read some opinions both ways as there is not universal agreement whether this is a good idea or not.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Maybe we can try each other's cars if I ever make it out your way again.

Or perhaps 2015 Triumphest?

My friend Ben with the eclectic British car collection finally got a Triumph and I am working on him about a cruise to San Diego next fall.

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

I have a similar set up as Karl, and I would hesitate to say I have *no* play in the steering wheel. I can turn it easy, and park with one hand (but generally use both). At 75mph, a 2" turn left and right turn will take me around a tractor-trailer that was in front of me. I'd like to swap cars with Geo if we happen across each other. -Or Randalls. The sad part is, recently, Randall and I were parked a few feet from each other and neither of us drove the others car. Some things, we don't make time for. Several club members and I have discussed swapping cars but we never do it. Maybe we are too hard to drag out of the drivers seat once we finally get in it. -or perhaps it's the old "better the devil I know, than the one I don't".