TR2/3/3A Rear spring again....front pin "D" washer?

[karls59tr]

the metal bushing that holds the front Pin has has a protruding serrated edge that holds the D washer out about 1/4" when torqued to 30ft/lbs. On the old spring on the other side that I haven't removed yet the D washer appears to be "flush" with the spring bushing loop. Is this gap an issue? Does the D washer need to be flush with spring?

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I just replaced my silent block bushings in the front eye of the rear leaf springs that the pin goes through. The edges of the new silent block bushings protrude very slightly outside the edge of the spring eye. My D washer does snug up against the bushing but doesn't touch the metal of the spring.

Cheers
Tush

 

[CJD]

This is the best pic I could find. Definitely not touching, as that would induce a rattle or knock on corners. Mine may not be 1/4", but it is very close to it.

 

[karls59tr]

That's good to know. Thx for the info.

 

[TR3driver]

Should be OK, I believe. I think the washer is a failsafe in case the rubber fails.

However, I found another problem with those serrated sleeves when I took the spring back off. They are smaller outside diameter than the originals were, so mine at least was working it's way in between the frame tube and the pin. The D washer was loose, even though the cotter pin was still in place. No real damage done with only a few thousand miles, but might have been a problem in the long term. You might want to check the nuts for tightness after a few thousand miles.

If I do ever put those springs back on the car (not bloody likely), I'll replace the bushings with ones that have the correct size sleeve in the middle.

 

[karls59tr]

"checking for tightness"...would it be a bad idea to use a Nylock nut in this location? Also is it possible to get the proper torque on a Nyloc nut?

 

[CJD]

When I read Randall's story, it sounds like it is not a matter of the nut loosening...but rather the steel sleeve of the bushing eating into the frame tube over time. So, either nut would work, so long as you check it and re tighten occasionally.

 

[TR3driver]

The factory liked Nylocs better than I do. If they chose not to use one, I suspect they had good reason(s). For one thing, I'm not certain there are enough threads exposed to fully engage with the nylon insert. Nylocs sometimes back off from vibration and heat, while cotter pins are forever. Besides which, you're supposed to replace Nylocs every time they are disturbed ... do you really want to do that?

PS, on the subject of replacing Nylocs, a woman I know had the rear wheel fall off her Mazda 323. Apparently the previous mechanic didn't know to replace the Nyloc, and it worked loose. Of course she didn't notice until the wheel was laying on the pavement, which pretty well ruined the spindle. A replacement spindle cost more than she paid for the whole car! (Ok, she got the car for free, but still.)