Hi. Long time no post been progressing slowly with frequent interruptions.
There is a problem I don't know what to do about. Briefly the car is disassembled to the "tub", stripped down and I,
've been going round dealing with patchy rust (non-lethal variety) and minor bodges. Much rust penetration was hidden under ancient asphalt type underseal - I think not deliberately. After removal, relevant to the current problem, affecting the lower flanges of the inner and intermediate sill. The outer sill (rocker) was intact but tatty. Spot welds had separated along the lower edge with thinning and corrosion of the margin., mainly from hinge post to the rear dogleg. Outriggers were intact but welds to the sill were horrible. Repairs had been done(!) in the past, possibly 70's or 80's with oxy scarring, solid enough but I have tried to get a timeline with no documentation that old.
Anyway, this is a common topic on this site so I won't labour the details. On the left side at present and have re placed the toeboards, straightened and rewelded the inner footwell panel, partial rear quarter panel repair etc. I found that a PO had "fixed" a rotten intermediate sill by sticking another on top. Also had to cut out and replace, what would nowadays be called bodged, repairs in the wheelwell and straighten up as best I can.. It was all a bit of a mess. Sills above the flanges, ie the box section, were good, welds to the outriggers also good I put a brace in and remove the rocker and intermediate sill. Didn't move the inner sill box (perfect , it had been treated with some kind of paint in the past).Found that the original intermediate sill was reduced to paper thin and all this was attached to the lower A and B pillars which had broken away slightly.
It was clear that the hinge pillar had been worked on with the pillar brace held on with lots of pop rivets. Lots of rivets along the edge of the hinge pillar which was also solidly welded. It looked as if someone had been attacking the inner footwell with a hammer. I couldn't say whether the hinge pillar had actually been moved removed or replaced but some repair has been done. The door lined up perfectly to the front and rear shrouds with good even gaps front back and below The rear section of the swage line was low door to rear wing. Apart from rewelding the lower section of the hinge pillar to the sill I did not move the angle or orientation of the hinge pillar. The B pillar area had been similarly crudely worked on. These bits have been repaired, rewelded as necessary,
A long winded background. On replacing the front wing and door, these continue to line up with the front swage perfect and wings to door lines uninterrupted. Door gaps not final yet but will fit at standard 3/16ths or so, no problem here. However, the rear swage door to wing is 3/8th low on the door side, much the same as before but more noticeable. I've pushed on the wing and pulled up the door hinges with little effect. In addition, whch I have not seen on the forum during searches, test fitting the rocker, shows that it is also 3/8ths low. This means that the aluminium door trim won't fit and the door won't close It is also the same 3/8ths too high and doesnj't reach the sill surface.
I did some measurements, guidance only.
Inner sill to floor - 3" as standard.
Inner sill to rocker surface - 3" front, 4" rear. R side is standard 2 7/8th front, 3 3/8ths rear (cf with J. Loftus measurements in a previous post).
Vertical shroud to sill - front L 19 3/4" rear L 17 1/2". R front 20 1/4" rear 17 1/4" Bit low L front but ? relevant.
This may have been noticed at previous repairs and whoever it was has done what he could. I can't think that these discrepancies are of factory vintage, despite the tolerances inherently allowed in the 60's and the notorious "Friday afternoon cars".
Big question is, while the car is apart is there anything to be done? BTW the car is straight, no signs of crash repair.
I thought about cutting out the hinge pillar, lifting it and rewelding but that would throw the door top out of alignment, the rear wing lines up with the original bolt holes so I'm assuming this is original. I'm not sure that lowering the rear wing would help alone. Also it would throw the fixed front wing/ shroud edge out of line.
I'm replacing the lower door section due penetrating rust holes. Could I shorten the door with the repair panel? Is that a good idea?
If so the swage line can be adjusted with filler or panel adhesive? Saw this in another post.
It seems to me that the base cause is the hinge pillar set too low.
Anyway, any suggestions welcome. This is driving me bonkers.
There is a problem I don't know what to do about. Briefly the car is disassembled to the "tub", stripped down and I,
've been going round dealing with patchy rust (non-lethal variety) and minor bodges. Much rust penetration was hidden under ancient asphalt type underseal - I think not deliberately. After removal, relevant to the current problem, affecting the lower flanges of the inner and intermediate sill. The outer sill (rocker) was intact but tatty. Spot welds had separated along the lower edge with thinning and corrosion of the margin., mainly from hinge post to the rear dogleg. Outriggers were intact but welds to the sill were horrible. Repairs had been done(!) in the past, possibly 70's or 80's with oxy scarring, solid enough but I have tried to get a timeline with no documentation that old.
Anyway, this is a common topic on this site so I won't labour the details. On the left side at present and have re placed the toeboards, straightened and rewelded the inner footwell panel, partial rear quarter panel repair etc. I found that a PO had "fixed" a rotten intermediate sill by sticking another on top. Also had to cut out and replace, what would nowadays be called bodged, repairs in the wheelwell and straighten up as best I can.. It was all a bit of a mess. Sills above the flanges, ie the box section, were good, welds to the outriggers also good I put a brace in and remove the rocker and intermediate sill. Didn't move the inner sill box (perfect , it had been treated with some kind of paint in the past).Found that the original intermediate sill was reduced to paper thin and all this was attached to the lower A and B pillars which had broken away slightly.
It was clear that the hinge pillar had been worked on with the pillar brace held on with lots of pop rivets. Lots of rivets along the edge of the hinge pillar which was also solidly welded. It looked as if someone had been attacking the inner footwell with a hammer. I couldn't say whether the hinge pillar had actually been moved removed or replaced but some repair has been done. The door lined up perfectly to the front and rear shrouds with good even gaps front back and below The rear section of the swage line was low door to rear wing. Apart from rewelding the lower section of the hinge pillar to the sill I did not move the angle or orientation of the hinge pillar. The B pillar area had been similarly crudely worked on. These bits have been repaired, rewelded as necessary,
A long winded background. On replacing the front wing and door, these continue to line up with the front swage perfect and wings to door lines uninterrupted. Door gaps not final yet but will fit at standard 3/16ths or so, no problem here. However, the rear swage door to wing is 3/8th low on the door side, much the same as before but more noticeable. I've pushed on the wing and pulled up the door hinges with little effect. In addition, whch I have not seen on the forum during searches, test fitting the rocker, shows that it is also 3/8ths low. This means that the aluminium door trim won't fit and the door won't close It is also the same 3/8ths too high and doesnj't reach the sill surface.
I did some measurements, guidance only.
Inner sill to floor - 3" as standard.
Inner sill to rocker surface - 3" front, 4" rear. R side is standard 2 7/8th front, 3 3/8ths rear (cf with J. Loftus measurements in a previous post).
Vertical shroud to sill - front L 19 3/4" rear L 17 1/2". R front 20 1/4" rear 17 1/4" Bit low L front but ? relevant.
This may have been noticed at previous repairs and whoever it was has done what he could. I can't think that these discrepancies are of factory vintage, despite the tolerances inherently allowed in the 60's and the notorious "Friday afternoon cars".
Big question is, while the car is apart is there anything to be done? BTW the car is straight, no signs of crash repair.
I thought about cutting out the hinge pillar, lifting it and rewelding but that would throw the door top out of alignment, the rear wing lines up with the original bolt holes so I'm assuming this is original. I'm not sure that lowering the rear wing would help alone. Also it would throw the fixed front wing/ shroud edge out of line.
I'm replacing the lower door section due penetrating rust holes. Could I shorten the door with the repair panel? Is that a good idea?
If so the swage line can be adjusted with filler or panel adhesive? Saw this in another post.
It seems to me that the base cause is the hinge pillar set too low.
Anyway, any suggestions welcome. This is driving me bonkers.