Lower control arm bushings

[gonzo]

I'm trying to get motivated enough to replace the front suspension inner control arm bushings. As you know there are eight of them on the big Healey but first the large suspension bolts must be removed to access them. A big and difficult job.

As test I tried to remove one of the bolts and gave up after soaking with WD-40 and related products. The bold appears to be stuck so assume all will be stuck this way. Have not tried to apply heat. This is not a technique I feel comfortable with - an open flame around the engine compartment is not for me.

Is this considered a job for professionals and if so please share recommendations. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif GONZO

 

[Dave Russell]

I'm not sure what the problem is. You can't get the nut unscrewed or you can't get the bolt out?
As you know, the bolt heads are welded to washers with a notch in them to prevent turning. On the nut end the washers are also locked to prevent turning. The nuts should come off with enough force. If a bolt head shears loose from the washer, you are in trouble. Assuming the nuts are off, about all you can do is pry on the bolt end, against the frame, & hope it moves. If not, you can resort to sawing through the bolt, next to the bushings on both ends. A lot of people resort to a reciprocating saw at this point. Same with the front bolts on the rear springs. I don't like to use a torch on heat treated suspension parts.

I considered doing this job on my present car, but after inspection, the original bushings still look pretty good. I checked bushing play with the upper arms & springs removed, no play, so I left it alone.

Maybe someone has an easier way, I certainly don't.

Good luck,
D

 

[Keoke]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Gonzo, where are you in the diassemby sequence of the front suspension system??---Keoke

 

[bighly]

This job takes some patience and persistance. You will need to really want to do this job or avoid it. First be sure to soak the whole mess in blaster or another high quality rust penetrant. This will go on daily for about a week. It helps to use an ice pick type device around each nut and spray into where ever you can reach. Be sure the cotter pins are completly removed and all exposed threads are clean. Once you feel satisfied you have gotten the threads under the nut wet with penetrant try tightening first with wrench and a sharp blow with a hammer on the tool. Then try loosening again with a sharp blow to break the 40 yaer rust bond. The trick for me seemed to be when the threads got wet, wicking action pulled in penetrant. This was at least a 1 week job a couple hours a day. Once the nuts are off spray the penetrant into the trunion bushing to get that moistened with penetrant. There are two challenges here, first freeing the nut, then removing the trunion. All in very limited space. It helps to have every other suspension part removed. Cut as a last resort as it is nearly impossible not to ding or cut the A arm when appling high RPM cutting tools. Oh yes and if you do cut beware of auxilary componets like brake lines. Don't ask how I know. Here is a link to some pics of my front end rebuild.
suspension rebuilt

 

[Richard Dickinson]

I had the same problem,fortunately only on one bolt. I finally worked a chisel between the washer and bracket and after much prying it moved about an half inch. I soaked the exposed part with penetrating oil and drove it back in. After several iterations of this it finaly came out. In the process I sheared the washer off but this is only a minor glitch.

 

[gonzo]

Thanks Dave, Keoke and Bighly for responding re: replacement of inner lower control arm bushings.

The front suspension was rebuilt (the usual suspects e.g. king-pin, lower link bush, upper trunnion, etc.) with the exception of the inner control arm bushings. This was not an easy job because some of the swivel axle bolts had to be cut off since they were either bent or rusted (Dave -the rear spring bolts were also given the same treatment!).

Anyway, when the suspension was apart the inner bushings were, however, checked and showed no signs of play - resisted movement from side to side and made the appropriate squeaky rubbery noise when moved upwards - so they were not replaced. That was 10 years and 30K miles ago but I'm still on a quest to improve ride quality.

The wheels were purchased new from Moss Motors 10 - 12 years ago and I think they are Daytons. The tires are newer Michelins mounted and balanced by British Wire Wheel 4 years ago (wheels were checked and true). Shocks never leaked and operate fine. I realize that Healeys are prone to front-end shimmy at speed, and mine has its share, but what could be done with shaking and shuttering over bumps at lower speeds and could this be improved by replacing the inner control arm bushings? Thanks again GONZO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

When I had this same problem I finally replaced the "Shocks never leaked and operate fine." with rebuilt ones from "World Wide Imports" & problem cured.
D

 

[gonzo]

Dave- Replacing the shocks? I think you're on to something here and will give it a try with the "specially modified, guaranteed-not-to-leak" remanufactured items from WorldWide Auto Parts as suggested.

Fitment of the front lever shocks is a lot easier than replacing the bushes - and probably cheaper than the speeding ticket I got today while driving the Healey (foolish /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif )

One question: How are lever arm shocks checked for correct operation? Thanks, GONZO

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]

One question: How are lever arm shocks checked for correct operation? Thanks, GONZO

[/ QUOTE ]
They are checked mostly by feel, if you don't have specialized equipment.

With the base clamped firmly down, move the levers by hand. They should move firmly & with very uniform resistance. Usually a little harder down than up. Often a bad shock will move easily for the first little bit of movent & then harder as you move it more or if you pump it several times. In the real world, the suspension can't wait for the shock to pump up. It has to work the first time. It is this first little bit of movement resistance that is so critical on little hops & road bumps. The shock can't have ANY free play.

Sometimes when this happens,the steering wheel will shake side to side & you get the feeling that if you don't hold it tight the car will get away. Which it may very well do. Healeys in particular are bad about this because they only have about 1-2 degrees of castor angle. This makes the steering light but reduces the self stabilizing effect that more castor would give. If none of the steering or suspension parts are loose, & the shocks are good, you can drive over the bumps hands off & have no wiggling or direction changes. A "good" Healey is completely stable at 100 mph plus speeds.
D