I'ts about the front engine seal and RTV sealant

[2wrench]

'74 TR6

Installed the front engine oil seal. Couldn't find
specs on a requsite torque. Just cinched them down well.

Used Ultra Copper silicone gasket maker.

Tried to install new wood on either side. Wood split
and could not be used on one side. I reinstalled the
originals. They looked good and were cut to size. Also,
they appeared to be made from a plastic, possibly, but
not wood, in any case.

See pic:

This picture is showing the back side of the front engine
seal in the block. Notice a bit of the RTV (tan color) that
dried in place? Should I try to remove this? If yes, how?

Pic:

Thanks,

 

[2wrench]

Opps.

This picture is showing the back side of the front engine
seal in the block. Notice a bit of the RTV (tan color) that
dried in place? Should I try to remove this? If yes, how?

 

[DougF]

I would try to remove it if accessible. One less thing to break away and clog journals. Razor blade, Xacto knife, anything that will gain access and cut.

 

[PeterK]

Very important to remove any silicone from the inside of the engine to prevent clogs. That orange RTV is really high-temp stuff suitable for exhaust joints.

Permatex #2 non-hardening is more suitable for engine assembly. I avoid RTV for engine work - if you use it on the pan gasket, it can squeeze out inside the block - not good.

I assume by wood that you mean cork on the side of the saddle block. Or does the TR6 use wood?

 

[billspit]

I am about to this point on my Spitfire rebuild. My manual says to tighten the sealing block down to the front plate before you tighten the sealing block down to the engine block. They say that is why so mnay of these engines leak from the front.

 

[Guest]

Re: I'ts about the front engine seal and RTV seala

Or does the TR6 use wood?

They do indeed use wood. I have to take my steel sealing block out to check the front bearing. Guess I will have to buy another sealing kit. What's a few more lbs.

 

[2wrench]

Very important to remove any silicone from the inside of the engine to prevent clogs. That orange RTV is really high-temp stuff suitable for exhaust joints.

Permatex #2 non-hardening is more suitable for engine assembly. I avoid RTV for engine work - if you use it on the pan gasket, it can squeeze out inside the block - not good.

I assume by wood that you mean cork on the side of the saddle block. Or does the TR6 use wood?

Yeah, Peter, the 6's use wood. The wood that came in my kit broke into pieces
along the grain of the wood right away. Obviously, I didn't handle it right,
but never thought it would be so easy to split.
Put the old wood in, though, as I have said, it looks to be plastic...just how
it looks. Maybe 'cause it's oil-saturated. I don't know.

I will clean the existing silicone off the inside of the block to a more
acceptable level and change my sealant.

Thanks.

 

[2wrench]

I am about to this point on my Spitfire rebuild. My manual says to tighten the sealing block down to the front plate before you tighten the sealing block down to the engine block. They say that is why so mnay of these engines leak from the front.

This is an eye open-er. So am I supposed to loose screw it to the block,
tighten down to the front plate, then come back to the block?

I do have a reference builing manual that never addressed this issue nor do I
remember reading anything in the Bently....of course, doesn't mean it isn't
there, just means I could have missed it.

Anybody know if there is this distinction between the Spit and the 6?

 

[billspit]

I am about to this point on my Spitfire rebuild. My manual says to tighten the sealing block down to the front plate before you tighten the sealing block down to the engine block. They say that is why so mnay of these engines leak from the front.

This is an eye open-er. So am I supposed to loose screw it to the block,
tighten down to the front plate, then come back to the block?

I do have a reference builing manual that never addressed this issue nor do I
remember reading anything in the Bently....of course, doesn't mean it isn't
there, just means I could have missed it.

Anybody know if there is this distinction between the Spit and the 6?

Your description is what I assume it means and is what I am going to do.

Snug it to the block (not too tight)then tighten the front. Go back and tighten down the saddle screws. I did not do this on my Mark I many eyars ago and I suspect that may be one of my leaks (there are so many).

 

[BobbyD]

Only other advice I'd offer up is to remember that on a TR6 BOTH the front sealing block AND rear oil seal housing are aluminum and the threads strip very easily. After pulling it all apart last week I now know why I had that oil puddle on the floor. The sealing block threads were stripped. I re-tapped them at 3/8" coarse and snugged the bolts down by feel. I was afraid to use my torque wrench. I used Ultra-Black on the timing cover, rear seal housing and oil pan. I'll let you know in another two weeks if anything leaks

 

[DrEntropy]

Argh. Here's where the Hylomar is well appreciated.

 

[guzzul]

Re: I'ts about the front engine seal and RTV seala

So am I supposed to loose screw it to the block,
tighten down to the front plate, then come back to the block?

Yes. And hylomar is recommended on the sealing block gaskets and as a coating on the wooden side wedges.

Anybody know if there is this distinction between the Spit and the 6?

No distinction. It is the same on both.

 

[aeronca65t]

Re: I'ts about the front engine seal and RTV seala

Yes, as Ross says above, no distinction in Spitfire (or the Spit-sourced engine in my 1500 Midget for that matter).

But my last kit for the 1500 provided "rubber" blocks that I think were really neoprene (instead of wood).
These blocks were slightly too big and no amount of foul language would make them fit.

So I trimmed them down with an Xacto knife and used a fair amount of Hylomar.
No leaks since (25+ hours of racing), even after a 4 hour race with average RPM around 5500.

 

[billspit]

Re: I'ts about the front engine seal and RTV seala

Well my trip to NAPA found no Hylomar. I did find assembly grease for the cam lobes.