Help with electronic ignition [Crane]

[aroostok]

Recently started work on restoring (to running use) a 1976 B that had been converted to 2 HS4 carbs. I replaced the Opus ignition with a Crane XR700 unit but have some questions.
I recently read that when the distributor is replaced the rotor would be pointing at approximately 1-2 o'clock at TDC on #1 cylinder. When I replaced the distributor my rotor is pointing more toward 11 o'clock! I've not been able to get it started other to experience an "almost catching" of cylinder fire right when I turn off the key. I don't have any banging like would be expected if I had the firing order messed up (1-3-4-2), it just won't catch.
Can anyone help me out with the rotor orientation thing or starting problem. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Forgot to mention, that I have tried to restore all the emission control equipment to about the 1974 level, the only thing not on is the catalytic converter which might be expected on a 76 single carb auto.
Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif

 

[jcatnite]

As far as where the rotor is pointing. It really doesn't matter as long as it is pointing to the contact on the cap that you chose to be your #1 plug wire. From there wire the rest of the cylinders in the proper firing order. You have to get the static timing set right before you can start to troubleshoot the new ignition. Are you getting spark to the plugs? I'm not very familiar with the crane conversion but was considering one for my LBC.
JC

 

[dklawson]

I used the Crane/Alison kit on my GT6 for years until I got it soaking wet washing the engine bay. I killed it. Take that as a cautionary note: Keep it dry.

JC is absolutely right. To fix this you'd have to remove and re-insert the drive gear in the block in a slightly more clockwise position. Moving the wires to correspond to new positions on the cap is easier. Remember that the rotor (and therefore the wire/firing order) goes Counterclockwise 1-3-4-2.

 

[CraigFL]

I put the Crane XR3000 on mine. The 3000 is easy to static time because it has an LED on it that I'm not sure yours has. I set up mine by:
1. Set pulley to 10degBTDC
2. Set light to just go "ON" (Trailing edge, I Believe)
3. Put the rotor in
4. Turn the distributor so that the nearest nipple lines up with the rotor --- Make that #1 plug wire connection.
5. Wire the rest of the plugs in the firing order.

Start the car & finish time...

 

[Bruce74B]

Wecome to the Forum, neighbor...I am in Lemoyne. I see you have been lurking for 6 months before your first post and just wanted to say hi...this is a good group of guys here. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think Craig outlined the easy 1-2-3 (4-5) steps to it. If you get her started and want to throw a timing light on it, but don't have one, send me an email and I'll take a ride over that way with mine!

Good luck!
Bruce

 

[aroostok]

Thanks for the info. I'll let you know how I make out with the Crane setup. I didn't think the orientation would make that much difference either but I'll pull the distributor and try to maybe alter the drive gear orientation a bit.
Thanks

 

[aroostok]

Thanks much. Will try your steps.
Ron /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[aroostok]

Thanks an awful lot. Good to know there is someone around. Just joined the NAMGBR at Carlisle and plan on joining the Keystone Group. Any suggestions as to whether good idea?
Ron /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Bruce74B]

I haven't joined anywhere yet, but when I get around toit, I will likely join the Keystone Club and the Susquehanna Valley Vintage Sportscar Club. The later is more local (monthy drive-ins to Hummelstown) and the former is larger and has one of the best shows around at Rothsville in Lancaster County some time in August.

Bruce

 

[CraigFL]

P.S. And while you have the distributor in some level of disassembly, be sure to check, clean and lubricate the mechanical advance. Having it working correctly will help your performance a lot.

 

[maynard]

make sure the engine really is at TDC. The harmonic balancer on these cars sometimes fail. When this happens, the outer ring shifts position making the timing mark totally inaccurate. I remember one car where the timing read 62 degrees BTC.

Either pull the number one plug, insert a long dowel in the hole and turn the crank by hand until it is fully up and then look at the timing mark.

Or, pull the valve coverand turn the crank until both valves on #1 or closed. You should be close to TDC.

 

[Guest]

An easy way to find top dead center is to remove the spark plug from the number one cylinder. Loosen the collar that holds/locks the distributor. Insert the sparkplug back into the sparkplug wire socket and place the sparkplug onto the body of the MGB where it will ground. Turn on the ignition but do not try to start the MGB. Rotate the distributor housing while watching the sparkplug. When you see an arc this is top dead center. You can lock down the distributor and reinstall the sparkplug. The MGB should start and you can retard the timing until the engine sounds right! This is not the best but it will get you going.